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Title: A Voyage to the South Sea
       For The Purpose Of Conveying The Bread-Fruit Tree To The West =
Indies,
              Including An Account Of The Mutiny On Board The Ship
             =20

Author: William Bligh

Release Date: March 19, 2005 [EBook #15411]

Language: English

Character set encoding: ASCII

*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEA ***




Produced by Sue Asscher and Col Choat.

3D""=20=

A

VOYAGE

TO THE

SOUTH SEA,

UNDERTAKEN BY COMMAND OF

HIS MAJESTY,

FOR THE PURPOSE OF

CONVEYING THE BREAD-FRUIT TREE

TO THE WEST INDIES,

IN HIS MAJESTY'S SHIP THE BOUNTY,

COMMANDED BY

LIEUTENANT WILLIAM BLIGH.

INCLUDING AN ACCOUNT OF THE

MUTINY ON BOARD THE SAID SHIP,

AND THE

SUBSEQUENT VOYAGE OF PART OF THE CREW, IN THE SHIP'S BOAT,

FROM TOFOA, ONE OF THE FRIENDLY ISLANDS,

TO TIMOR, A DUTCH SETTLEMENT IN THE EAST INDIES.

THE WHOLE ILLUSTRATED WITH CHARTS, ETC.

PUBLISHED BY PERMISSION OF THE

LORDS COMMISSIONERS OF THE ADMIRALTY.

LONDON:

PRINTED FOR GEORGE NICOL, BOOKSELLER TO HIS MAJESTY, PALL-MALL.

1792.

3D""=20=
Captain=20 Bligh

ADVERTISEMENT.

At the time I published the Narrative of the Mutiny on Board the = Bounty it=20 was my intention that the preceding part of the Voyage should be = contained in a=20 separate account. This method I have since been induced to alter. The = reason of=20 the Narrative appearing first was for the purpose of communicating early = information concerning an event which had attracted the public notice: = and,=20 being drawn up in a hasty manner, it required many corrections. Some=20 circumstances likewise were omitted; and the notation of time used in = the=20 Narrative being according to sea reckoning, in which the days begin and = end at=20 noon, must have produced a degree of obscurity and confusion to readers=20 accustomed only to the civil mode. And this would have increased as the=20 remainder of the voyage, on account of the numerous shore occurrences at = Otaheite and elsewhere, could not, with clearness and propriety, have = been=20 related in any other than the usual manner of reckoning.

Besides remedying these inconveniencies I have thought a fuller = account of=20 our passage from Timor to Europe than that contained in the Narrative = would not=20 be unacceptable. These reasons, with the manifest convenience of = comprising the=20 whole Voyage in one continued narrative, in preference to letting it = appear in=20 disjointed accounts will, it is hoped, be allowed a sufficient excuse = for having=20 varied from the original intention. Nevertheless for the accommodation = of the=20 purchasers of the Narrative already published those who desire it will = be=20 supplied with the other parts of the Voyage separate; i.e. the part = previous to=20 the mutiny and the additional account after leaving Timor.

CONTENTS.

CHA= PTER=20 1.

Plan of the Expedition.
Outfit and Occurrences to the time of = leaving=20 England.
Description of the Breadfruit.

CHA= PTER=20 2.

Departure from England.
Arrival at Tenerife.
Sail from=20 thence.
Arrival off Cape Horn.
Severity of the Weather.
Obliged = to bear=20 away for the Cape of Good Hope.

CHA= PTER=20 3.

Passage towards the Cape of Good Hope and Search after Tristan da=20 Cunha.
Arrival at False Bay. Occurrences there.
Reports concerning = the=20 Grosvenor's People.
Departure from the Cape.

CHA= PTER=20 4.

Passage towards Van Diemen's Land. Make the Island of St. = Paul.
Arrival in=20 Adventure Bay. Natives seen.
Sail from Van Diemen's Land.

CHA= PTER=20 5.

Rocky Islands discovered.
See the Island Maitea and arrive at=20 Otaheite.
Ship crowded by the Natives.

CHA= PTER=20 6.

Account of an English Ship lately sailed from Otaheite.
Death of=20 Omai.
Captain Cook's Picture sent on board.
Otoo visits the = Ship.
His=20 Visit returned. Natives well disposed towards us.
Account of the = Cattle left=20 by Captain Cook.
Breadfruit plants promised.
Visit to the Earee=20 Rahie.
Presents made to the Arreoys.

CHA= PTER=20 7.

A theft committed.
Deception of the painted Head.
Conversation = with a=20 Priest.
A Wrestling Match.
Reports of the Natives concerning other = Islands.
Some Account of Omai.

CHA= PTER=20 8.

Expedition to Tettaba after a Heifer.
Extraordinary domestic=20 Arrangements.
Tinah's Mother visits the Ship.
A Sheep brought from = Ulietea.
Heavy Storm.
Death of the Surgeon.
Taowne and Toahroah = Harbours examined.

CHA= PTER=20 9.

A Walk into the Country.
The Peeah Roah.
Prevailed on by the = Kindness=20 of the Chiefs to defer our Departure.
Breadfruit Plants = collected.
Move=20 the Ship to Toahroah Harbour.
Fishing.
Three of the Ship's Company = desert.
Indiscretion of our People on Shore.
Instances of=20 Jealousy.
Mourning.
Bull brought to Oparre by a Prophet.
The = Deserters=20 recovered.
Tinah proposes to visit England.

CH= APTER=20 10.

The Ship's Cable cut in the Night.
Coolness with the Chiefs on = that=20 Account.
Visit to an old Lady.
Disturbance at a Heiva.
Tinah's=20 Hospitality.
A Thief taken and punished.
Preparations for = sailing.

CH= APTER=20 11.

Arrival of an Arreoy Woman from Tethuroa.
A Present delivered by = Tinah for=20 his Majesty.
Other Occurrences to the Time of the Ship's Departure = from=20 Otaheite.

CH= APTER=20 12.

At the Island Huaheine.
A Friend of Omai visits the Ship.
Leave = the=20 Society Islands.
A Water-spout.
The Island Whytootackee=20 discovered.
Anchor in Annamooka Road.
Our Parties on Shore robbed = by the=20 Natives.
Sail from Annamooka.
The Chiefs detained on = board.
Part=20 friendly.

CH= APTER=20 13.

A Mutiny in the Ship.

CH= APTER=20 14.

Proceed in the Launch to the Island Tofoa.
Difficulty in obtaining = Supplies there.
Treacherous Attack of the Natives.
Escape to Sea = and bear=20 away for New Holland.

CH= APTER=20 15.

Passage towards New Holland.
Islands discovered in our = Route.
Our great=20 Distresses.
See the Reefs of New Holland and find a Passage through = them.

CH= APTER=20 16.

Progress to the Northward along the Coast of New Holland.
Land on=20 different Islands in search of Supplies.

CH= APTER=20 17.

Passage from New Holland to the Island Timor.
Arrive at=20 Coupang.
Reception there.

CH= APTER=20 18.

At Coupang.

CH= APTER=20 19.

From Timor to Batavia.

CH= APTER=20 20.

Occurrences at Batavia and Passage thence to England.

LIST OF THE PLATES.

Head of=20 Lieutenant Bligh.

Plan=20 and profile of the deck of the Bounty.

Sections=20 of the Breadfruit.

Plan of=20 Toahroah harbour.

Copy of=20 the draught from which the Bounty's launch was built.

Chart=20 of Islands discovered from the launch.

Chart=20 of part of the north-east coast of New Holland.

Chart=20 of the track of the launch from Tofoa to Timor.

3D""=20=
Plan=20 and Section of Part of the Bounty Armed Transport, showing the manner of = Fitting=20 and Stowing the Potts, for receiving the Bread-fruit Plants.

A VOYAGE TO THE SOUTH SEAS, ETC.

CHAPTER 1.

Plan of the Expedition.
Outfit and Occurrences to the = time=20 of leaving England.
Description of the Breadfruit.

1787.

The King having been graciously pleased to comply with a request from = the=20 merchants and planters interested in his Majesty's West India = possessions that=20 the breadfruit tree might be introduced into those islands, a vessel = proper for=20 the undertaking was bought and taken into dock at Deptford to be = provided with=20 the necessary fixtures and preparations for executing the object of the = voyage.=20 These were completed according to a plan of my much honoured friend, Sir = Joseph=20 Banks, which in the event proved the most advantageous that could have = been=20 adopted for the intended purpose.

August 16.

The ship was named the Bounty: I was appointed to command her on the = 16th of=20 August 1787. Her burthen was nearly two hundred and fifteen tons; her = extreme=20 length on deck ninety feet ten inches; extreme breadth twenty-four feet = three=20 inches; and height in the hold under the beams at the main hatchway ten = feet=20 three inches. In the cockpit were the cabins of the surgeon, gunner, = botanist,=20 and clerk, with a steward-room and storerooms. The between decks was = divided in=20 the following manner: the great cabin was appropriated for the = preservation of=20 the plants and extended as far forward as the after hatchway. It had two = large=20 skylights, and on each side three scuttles for air, and was fitted with = a false=20 floor cut full of holes to contain the garden-pots in which the plants = were to=20 be brought home. The deck was covered with lead, and at the foremost = corners of=20 the cabin were fixed pipes to carry off the water that drained from the = plants=20 into tubs placed below to save it for future use. I had a small cabin on = one=20 side to sleep in, adjoining to the great cabin, and a place near the = middle of=20 the ship to eat in. The bulk-head of this apartment was at the = after-part of the=20 main hatchway, and on each side of it were the berths of the mates and=20 midshipmen; between these berths the arm-chest was placed. The cabin of = the=20 master, in which was always kept the key of the arms, was opposite to = mine. This=20 particular description of the interior parts of the ship is rendered = necessary=20 by the event of the expedition.

The ship was masted according to the proportion of the navy; but on = my=20 application the masts were shortened, as I thought them too much for = her,=20 considering the nature of the voyage.

September 3.

On the 3rd of September the ship came out of dock; but the carpenters = and=20 joiners remained on board much longer, as they had a great deal of work = to=20 finish.

The next material alteration made in the fitting out was lessening = the=20 quantity of iron and other ballast. I gave directions that only nineteen = tons of=20 iron should be taken on board instead of the customary proportion which = was=20 forty-five tons. The stores and provisions I judged would be fully = sufficient to=20 answer the purpose of the remainder; for I am of opinion that many of = the=20 misfortunes which attend ships in heavy storms of wind are occasioned by = too=20 much dead weight in their bottoms.

The establishment of men and officers for the ship were as = follows:

1 Lieutenant to command.
1 Master.
1 Boatswain.
1 Gunner.
1 Carpenter.
1 Surgeon.
2 Master's Mates.
2 Midshipmen.
2 Quartermasters.
1 Quartermaster's Mate.
1 Boatswain's Mate.
1 Gunner's Mate.
1 Carpenter's Mate.
1 Carpenter's Crew.
1 Sailmaker.
1 Armourer.
1 Corporal.
1 Clerk and Steward.
23 Able Seamen.
---
44.

Two skilful and careful men were appointed, at Sir Joseph Banks's=20 recommendation, to have the management of the plants intended to be = brought=20 home: the one, David Nelson, who had been on similar employment in = Captain=20 Cook's last voyage; the other, William Brown, as an assistant to him. = With these=20 two our whole number amounted to forty-six.

It was proposed that our route to the Society Islands should be round = Cape=20 Horn; and the greatest dispatch became necessary as the season was = already far=20 advanced: but the shipwrights not being able to complete their work by = the time=20 the ship was ready in other respects, our sailing was unavoidably = retarded.

October. Thursday 4.

However by the 4th of October the pilot came on board to take us down = the=20 river.

Tuesday 9.

On the 9th we fell down to Long Reach where we received our gunner's = stores=20 and guns, four four-pounders and ten swivels.

The ship was stored and victualled for eighteen months. In addition = to the=20 customary allowance of provisions we were supplied with sourkraut, = portable=20 soup, essence of malt, dried malt, and a proportion of barley and wheat = in lieu=20 of oatmeal. I was likewise furnished with a quantity of ironwork and = trinkets to=20 serve in our intercourse with the natives in the South Seas: and from = the board=20 of Longitude I received a timekeeper, made by Mr. Kendal.

Monday 15.

On the 15th I received orders to proceed to Spithead.

November. Sunday 4.

But the winds and weather were so unfavourable that we did not arrive = there=20 till the 4th of November. On the 24th I received from Lord Hood, who = commanded=20 at Spithead, my final orders. The wind, which for several days before = had been=20 favourable, was now turned directly against us.

Wednesday 28.

On the 28th the ship's company received two months pay in advance, = and on the=20 following morning we worked out to St. Helen's, where we were obliged to = anchor.

1787. December. Sunday 23.

We made different unsuccessful attempts to get down Channel, but = contrary=20 winds and bad weather constantly forced us back to St. Helen's, or = Spithead,=20 until Sunday the 23rd of December when we sailed with a fair wind.

During our stay at Spithead, the rate of the timepiece was several = times=20 examined by Mr. Bailey's observations at the Portsmouth observatory. On = the 19th=20 of December, the last time of its being examined on shore, it was 1 = minute 52=20 seconds, 5 too fast for meantime, and then losing at the rate of 1 = second, 1 per=20 day; and at this rate I estimate its going when we sailed.

The object of all the former voyages to the South Seas undertaken by = the=20 command of his present majesty, has been the advancement of science and = the=20 increase of knowledge. This voyage may be reckoned the first the = intention of=20 which has been to derive benefit from those distant discoveries. For the = more=20 fully comprehending the nature and plan of the expedition, and that the = reader=20 may be possessed of every information necessary for entering on the = following=20 sheets, I shall here lay before him a copy of the instructions I = received from=20 the admiralty, and likewise a short description of the breadfruit.

By the Commissioners for Executing the Office of Lord High = Admiral of=20 Great Britain and Ireland, etc.

Whereas the king, upon a representation from the merchants and = planters=20 interested in his Majesty's West India possessions that the = introduction of=20 the breadfruit tree into the islands of those seas, to constitute an = article=20 of food, would be of very essential benefit to the inhabitants, hath, = in order=20 to promote the interests of so respectable a body of his subjects = (especially=20 in an instance which promises general advantage) thought fit that = measures=20 should be taken for the procuring some of those trees, and conveying = them to=20 the said West India islands: And whereas the vessel under your command = hath,=20 in consequence thereof, been stored and victualled for that service, = and=20 fitted with proper conveniences and necessaries for the preservation = of as=20 many of the said trees as, from her size, can be taken on board her; = and you=20 have been directed to receive on board her the two gardeners named in = the=20 margin, David Nelson, and William Brown, who, from their knowledge of = trees=20 and plants, have been hired for the purpose of selecting such as shall = appear=20 to be of a proper species and size:

You are, therefore, in pursuance of his majesty's pleasure, = signified to us=20 by Lord Sydney, one of his principal secretaries of state, hereby = required and=20 directed to put to sea in the vessel you command, the first favourable = opportunity of wind and weather, and proceed with her, as = expeditiously as=20 possible, round Cape Horn, to the Society Islands, situate in the = Southern=20 ocean, in the latitude of about eighteen degrees south, and longitude = of about=20 two hundred and ten degrees east from Greenwich, where, according to = the=20 accounts given by the late Captain Cook, and persons who accompanied = him=20 during his voyages, the breadfruit tree is to be found in the most = luxuriant=20 state.

Having arrived at the above-mentioned islands, and taken on board = as many=20 trees and plants as may be thought necessary (the better to enable you = to do=20 which, you have already been furnished with such articles of = merchandise and=20 trinkets as it is supposed will be wanted to satisfy the natives) you = are to=20 proceed from thence through Endeavour Straits (which separate New = Holland from=20 New Guinea) to Prince's Island in the Straits of Sunda, or, if it = should=20 happen to be more convenient, to pass on the eastern side of Java to = some port=20 on the north side of that island, where any breadfruit trees which may = have=20 been injured, or have died, may be replaced by mangosteens, duriens, = jacks,=20 nancas, lanfas, and other fine fruit trees of that quarter, as well as = the=20 rice plant which grows upon dry land; all of which species (or such of = them as=20 shall be judged most eligible) you are to purchase on the best terms = you can=20 from the inhabitants of that island with the ducats with which you = have also=20 been furnished for that purpose; taking care however, if the rice = plants=20 above-mentioned cannot be procured at Java, to touch at Prince's = Island for=20 them, where they are regularly cultivated.

From Prince's Island, or the Island of Java, you are to proceed = round the=20 Cape of Good Hope to the West Indies (calling on your way thither at = any=20 places which may be thought necessary) and deposit one half of such of = the=20 above-mentioned trees and plants as may be then alive at his majesty's = botanical garden at St. Vincent, for the benefit of the Windward = Islands, and=20 then go on to Jamaica: and, having delivered the remainder to Mr. = East, or=20 such person or persons as may be authorised by the governor and = council of=20 that island to receive them, refreshed your people, and received on = board such=20 provisions and stores as may be necessary for the voyage, make the = best of=20 your way back to England; repairing to Spithead, and sending to our = secretary=20 an account of your arrival and proceedings.

And whereas you will receive herewith a copy of the instructions = which have=20 been given to the above-mentioned gardeners for their guidance, as = well as in=20 procuring the said trees and plants, and the management of them after = they=20 shall be put on board, as for bringing to England a small sample of = each=20 species, and such others as may be prepared by the superintendent of = the=20 botanical garden at St. Vincent's, and by the said Mr. East, or = others, for=20 his majesty's garden at Kew; you are hereby required and directed to = afford,=20 and to give directions to your officers and company to afford, the = said=20 gardeners every possible aid and assistance, not only in the = collecting of the=20 said trees and plants at the places before mentioned, but for their=20 preservation during their conveyance to the places of their = destination.

Given under our hands the 20th November 1787.

HOWE,
CHARLES BRETT,
RD. HOPKINS,
J. LEVESON GOWER.

To Lieutenant William Bligh, commanding his majesty's armed = vessel the=20 Bounty at Spithead.

By command of their Lordships,

P. STEPHENS.

In the foregoing orders it is to be observed that I was particularly = directed=20 to proceed round Cape Horn but, as the season was so far advanced and we = were so=20 long detained by contrary winds, I made application to the Admiralty for = discretional orders on that point; to which I received the following = answer:

By the Commissioners for Executing the Office of Lord High = Admiral of=20 Great Britain and Ireland, Etc. Etc.

The season of the year being now so far advanced as to render it = probable=20 that your arrival with the vessel you command on the southern coast of = America=20 will be too late for your passing round Cape Horn without much = difficulty and=20 hazard, you are in that case at liberty (notwithstanding former = orders) to=20 proceed in her to Otaheite, round the Cape of Good Hope.

Given under our hands the 18th December 1787.

HOWE,
CHARLES BRETT,
BAYHAM.

To Lieutenant William Bligh, commanding His Majesty's armed = vessel=20 Bounty, Spithead.

By command of their Lordships,

P. Stephens.

The Breadfruit is so well known and described that to attempt a new = account=20 of it would be unnecessary and useless. However as it may contribute to = the=20 convenience of the reader I have given the following extracts respecting = it with=20 the plate annexed.

Extract from the Account of Dampier's Voyage Round the World = Performed=20 in 1688.

The breadfruit (as we call it) grows on a large tree, as big and = high as=20 our largest apple-trees: It hath a spreading head, full of branches = and dark=20 leaves. The fruit grows on the boughs like apples; it is as big as a=20 penny-loaf when wheat is at five shillings the bushel; it is of a = round shape,=20 and hath a thick tough rind. When the fruit is ripe it is yellow and = soft, and=20 the taste is sweet and pleasant. The natives of Guam use it for bread. = They=20 gather it, when full-grown, while it is green and hard; then they bake = it in=20 an oven, which scorches the rind and makes it black; but they scrape = off the=20 outside black crust, and there remains a tender thin crust; and the = inside is=20 soft, tender, and white like the crumb of a penny-loaf. There is = NEITHER SEED=20 NOR STONE in the inside, but all is of a pure substance, like bread. = It must=20 be eaten new; for, if it is kept above twenty-four hours, it grows = harsh and=20 choaky; but it is very pleasant before it is too stale. This fruit = lasts in=20 season EIGHT MONTHS in the year, during which the natives eat NO OTHER = SORT OF=20 FOOD OF BREAD KIND. I did never see of this fruit anywhere but here. = The=20 natives told us that there is plenty of this fruit growing on the rest = of the=20 Ladrone islands; and I DID NEVER HEAR OF IT ANYWHERE ELSE. Volume 1 = page=20 296.

Extract from the Account of Lord Anson's Voyage, Published by = Mr.=20 Walter.

There was at Tinian a kind of fruit, peculiar to these (Ladrone) = islands,=20 called by the Indians rhymay, but by us the breadfruit; for it was = constantly=20 eaten by us, during our stay upon the island, * instead of bread; and = so=20 UNIVERSALLY PREFERRED that no ship's bread was expended in that whole=20 interval. It grew upon a tree which is somewhat lofty, and which = towards the=20 top divides into large and spreading branches. The leaves of this tree = are of=20 a remarkable deep green, are notched about the edges, and are = generally from a=20 foot to eighteen inches in length. The fruit itself is found = indifferently on=20 all parts of the branches; it is in shape rather elliptical than = round; it is=20 covered with a tough rind and is usually seven or eight inches long; = each of=20 them grows singly and not in clusters. This fruit is fittest to be = used when=20 it is full-grown but still green; in which state, after it is properly = prepared by being roasted in the embers, its taste has some distant=20 resemblance to that of an artichoke's bottom, and its texture is not = very=20 different, for it is soft and spongy.

(*Footnote. About two months, namely from the latter end of = August=20 to the latter end of October, 1742.)

Extracts from the Account of the First Voyage of Captain Cook.=20 Hawkesworth, Vol. 2.

IN THE SOCIETY ISLANDS.

The breadfruit grows on a tree that is about the size of a middling = oak;=20 its leaves are frequently a foot and a half long, of an oblong shape, = deeply=20 sinuated like those of the fig-tree, which they resemble in = consistence and=20 colour, and in the exuding of a white milky juice upon being broken. = The fruit=20 is about the size and shape of a child's head, and the surface is = reticulated=20 not much unlike a truffle: it is covered with a thin skin, and has a = core=20 about as big as the handle of a small knife. The eatable part lies = between the=20 skin and the core; it is as white as snow, and somewhat of the = consistence of=20 new bread: it must be roasted before it is eaten, being first divided = into=20 three or four parts. Its taste is insipid, with a slight sweetness = somewhat=20 resembling that of the crumb of wheaten bread mixed with a Jerusalem=20 artichoke.

Pages 80, 81. See also the plate there and at page 232.

Of the many vegetables that have been mentioned already as serving = them for=20 food, the principal is the breadfruit, to procure which costs them no = trouble=20 or labour but climbing a tree. The tree which produces it does not = indeed=20 shoot up spontaneously, but if a man plants ten of them in his = lifetime, which=20 he may do in about an hour, he will as completely fulfil his duty to = his own=20 and future generations as the native of our less temperate climate can = do by=20 ploughing in the cold winter, and reaping in the summer's heat, as = often as=20 these seasons return; even if, after he has procured bread for his = present=20 household, he should convert a surplus into money, and lay it up for = his=20 children.

It is true indeed that the breadfruit is not always in season; but=20 coconuts, bananas, plantains, and a great variety of other fruits = supply the=20 deficiency. Page 197.

Extract from the Account of Captain Cook'S Last Voyage.

IN THE SOCIETY ISLANDS.

I (Captain Cook) have inquired very carefully into their manner of=20 cultivating the breadfruit tree at Otaheite; but was always answered = that they=20 never planted it. This indeed must be evident to everyone who will = examine the=20 places where the young trees come up. It will be always observed that = they=20 spring from the roots of the old ones which run along near the surface = of the=20 ground. So that the breadfruit trees may be reckoned those that would=20 naturally cover the plains, even supposing that the island was not = inhabited,=20 in the same manner that the white-barked trees, found at Van Diemen's = Land,=20 constitute the forests there. And from this we may observe that the = inhabitant=20 of Otaheite, instead of being obliged to plant his bread, will RATHER = be under=20 the necessity of preventing its progress; which I suppose is sometimes = done to=20 give room for trees of another sort, to afford him some variety in his = food.=20 Volume 2 page 145.

IN THE SANDWICH ISLANDS.

The breadfruit trees are planted, and flourish with great = luxuriance, on=20 rising grounds. Where the hills rise almost perpendicularly in a great = variety=20 of peaked forms, their steep sides and the deep chasms between them = are=20 covered with trees, amongst which those of the breadfruit were = observed=20 particularly to abound. Volume 3 pages 105 and 114, containing Captain = King's=20 Narrative.

The climate of the Sandwich Islands differs very little from that = of the=20 West India Islands, which lie IN THE SAME LATITUDE. Upon the whole = perhaps it=20 may be rather more temperate. Captain King ib page 116.

The breadfruit trees thrive in these islands, not in such = abundance, but=20 produce double the quantity of fruit they do on the rich plains of = Otaheite.=20 The trees are nearly of the same height, but the branches begin to = strike out=20 from the trunk much lower, and with greater luxuriance. Captain King = ib page=20 120.

3D""=20=
Sections=20 of the Bread Fruit

CHAPTER 2.

Departure from England. Arrival at Tenerife.
Sail from = thence.
Arrival off Cape Horn.
Severity of the = Weather.
Obliged to=20 bear away for the Cape of Good Hope.

1787. December. Sunday 23.

On Sunday morning the 23rd of December 1787 we sailed from Spithead = and,=20 passing through the Needles, directed our course down channel with a = fresh gale=20 of wind at east. In the afternoon one of the seamen, in furling the=20 main-top-gallant-sail, fell off the yard and was so fortunate as to save = himself=20 by catching hold of the main-top-mast-stay in his fall. At night the = wind=20 increased to a strong gale with a heavy sea.

Tuesday 25.

It moderated however on the 25th and allowed us to keep our Christmas = with=20 cheerfulness; but the following day it blew a severe storm of wind from = the=20 eastward, which continued till the 29th, in the course of which we = suffered=20 greatly. One sea broke away the spare yards and spars out of the = starboard main=20 chains. Another heavy sea broke into the ship and stove all the boats. = Several=20 casks of beer that had been lashed upon deck were broke loose and washed = overboard, and it was not without great difficulty and risk that we were = able to=20 secure the boats from being washed away entirely.

Saturday 29.

On the 29th we were in latitude 39 degrees 35 minutes north and = longitude 14=20 degrees 26 minutes west when the gale abated and the weather became = fair.=20 Besides other mischief done to us by the storm, a large quantity of our = bread=20 was damaged and rendered useless, for the sea had stove in our stern and = filled=20 the cabin with water. From this time to our arrival at Tenerife we had = moderate=20 weather and winds mostly from the northward.

1788. January.

January 4.

This forenoon we spoke a French ship bound to the Mauritius.

Saturday 5. Tenerife.

The next day at nine in the forenoon we saw the island of Tenerife = bearing=20 west-south-west half west about twelve leagues distant. It was covered = with a=20 thick haze except the north-westernmost part which is a remarkable = headland,=20 resembling a horse's head, the ears very distinct. To the eastward of = this head*=20 lie two round rocks, the northern boundary of Tenerife. I had a good = observation=20 at noon by which I make the latitude of the two rocks 28 degrees 44 = minutes=20 north and their longitude by our timekeeper 16 degrees 5 minutes west. = To the=20 southward of these and near the shore is a high needle rock: about four = leagues=20 farther to the southward the coast inclines towards the west to the road = of=20 Santa Cruz, where we anchored at half-past nine on Sunday morning in = twenty-five=20 fathoms water, and moored along shore in the same depth, with the cupola = tower=20 of the church of St. Francis bearing west half north one mile, the east = part of=20 the road east by north, the castle on the south point south-west, and = the west=20 part of the Grand Canary south-south-east. A Spanish packet bound to = Corunna, an=20 American brig, and several other vessels, were lying here.

(*Footnote. South 82 degrees east by the = compass.)

As soon as the ship was anchored I sent an officer (Mr. Christian) to = wait on=20 the governor and to acquaint him I had put in to obtain refreshments and = to=20 repair the damages we had sustained in bad weather. To this I had a very = polite=20 answer from the governor, * that I should be supplied with whatever the = island=20 afforded. I had also directed the officer to acquaint him that I would = salute,=20 provided an equal number of guns were to be returned but, as I received = an=20 extraordinary answer to this part of my message, purporting that his = excellency=20 did not return the same number but to persons equal in rank to himself, = this=20 ceremony was omitted.

(*Footnote. Marquis de Brancheforte.)

During this interval I was visited by the port-master (Captain Adams) = and=20 shortly afterwards several officers came on board from his excellency to = compliment me on my arrival. As soon as the ship was moored I went on = shore and=20 paid my respects to him.

Monday 7.

On Monday morning I began to forward the ship's business with the = utmost=20 dispatch, and gave the necessary directions to Messrs. Collogan and = sons, the=20 contractors, for the supplies I wanted. I also got leave of the governor = for Mr.=20 Nelson to range the hills and examine the country in search of plants = and=20 natural curiosities.

As there was a great surf on the shore I bargained for everything I = wanted to=20 be brought off by the shore boats, and agreed to give five shillings per = ton for=20 water. Very good wine was bought at ten pounds per pipe, the contract = price; but=20 the superior quality was fifteen pounds; and some of this was not much = inferior=20 to the best London Madeira. I found this was an unfavourable season for = other=20 refreshments: Indian corn, potatoes, pumpkins, and onions, were all very = scarce=20 and double the price of what they are in summer. Beef also was difficult = to be=20 procured and exceedingly poor; the price nearly sixpence farthing per = pound. The=20 corn was three current dollars per fanega, which is full five shillings = per=20 bushel; and biscuit at twenty-five shillings for the hundred pounds. = Poultry was=20 so scarce that a good fowl cost three shillings. This is therefore not a = place=20 for ships to expect refreshments at a reasonable price at this time of = the year,=20 wine excepted; but from March to November supplies are plentiful, = particularly=20 fruit, of which at this time we could procure none except a few dried = figs and=20 some bad oranges.

NAUTICAL REMARKS.

During our stay here the weather was fair with north-east winds and = calms and=20 small drizzling rain in the night. The thermometer from 66 to 69 degrees = at noon=20 in the shade. I could make no lunar observations for the longitude, but = by the=20 help of the timekeeper I have computed the situation of the town of = Santa Cruz=20 to be 28 degrees 28 minutes north latitude and 16 degrees 18 minutes = west=20 longitude. I observed the variation by two compasses to be 20 degrees 1 = minute=20 west: this much exceeded what I could have imagined; for in 1776 I = observed it=20 only 14 degrees 40 minutes west; a difference of above five degrees in = eleven=20 years: and this makes me reflect on the uncertainty of obtaining the = exact=20 deviation of the magnetic pole, and of course its annual variation which = never=20 can be accurately ascertained unless the observations are made always in = one=20 spot and with the same compass.

Tenerife, though considerably without the tropic, is so nearly within = the=20 limits of the tradewind that navigators generally steer to it from the = eastward.=20 The road of Santa Cruz lies on the east side of the island, at the end = of a=20 range of craggy hills, barren and very lofty, along with you sail west = by south=20 by compass into the road, with a sea unfathomable until near the shore. = The=20 anchoring ground may be accounted from fifty fathoms to twenty, or even = fifteen.=20 The bank is very steep and gives but little time to sound; for which = reason it=20 should be done effectually with a heavy lead, or a ship will be too near = in=20 before a stranger is aware of it: he will likewise too soon expect to = find=20 bottom, owing to the great deception of the adjacent high land. To = obviate these=20 difficulties it is necessary to observe that while a town which lies = some=20 distance to the southward of Santa Cruz is open with the castle on the = south=20 part of the road, though you may appear near to the shore, there is no=20 anchorage; but after it is shut entirely in you get on the bank. The = church=20 bearing west or west by south and the south point of the road south-west = half=20 south to south-west by west is a good situation for anchoring: the depth = about=20 twenty-five fathoms. The distance from the shore will be three quarters = of a=20 mile; and the southernmost land that can be seen then will be a half or = quarter=20 point of the compass farther out than the south point of the road.

The bottom is black soft mud, with some patches of rocks; for which = reason=20 vessels that lie here any length of time buoy their cables. This = precaution,=20 besides being useful in that particular, they think makes them ride more = easy=20 when there is much sea setting into the road, which, with the wind any = way to=20 the southward of east or at south-west, must be very considerable; it is = therefore usual to moor with four anchors, though more than two are = scarce ever=20 of use. Mooring is however advisable if a ship is only to remain = twenty-four=20 hours, and the tighter the better, that the cables may keep clear of the = ground.

The landing on the beach is generally impracticable with our own = boats, at=20 least without great risk; but there is a very fine pier on which people = may land=20 without difficulty if there is not much swell in the road. To this pier = the=20 water is conveyed by pipes for the use of shipping, and for which all=20 merchant-ships pay.

There is a degree of wretchedness and want among the lower class of = people=20 which is not anywhere so common as among the Spanish and Portuguese = settlements.=20 To alleviate these evils the present governor of Tenerife has instituted = a most=20 charitable society which he takes the trouble to superintend; and by=20 considerable contributions a large airy dwelling that contains one = hundred and=20 twenty poor girls and as many men and boys has been built and endowed = with a=20 sufficiency of land round it, not only for all present purposes but for=20 enlarging the building for more objects of charity as their funds = increase. I=20 had the honour to be shown by his excellency this asylum (Hospicio they = call it)=20 where there appeared in every countenance the utmost cheerfulness and = content.=20 The decency and neatness of the dress of the young females, with the = order in=20 which they were arranged at their spinning-wheels and looms in an = extensive airy=20 apartment, was admirable. A governess inspected and regulated all their = works,=20 which were the manufacturing of ribbons of all colours, coarse linens, = and=20 tapes; all which were managed and brought to perfection by themselves = from the=20 silk and flax in their first state; even the dying of the colours is = performed=20 by them. These girls are received for five years, at the end of which = they are=20 at liberty to marry, and have for their portions their wheel and loom, = with a=20 sum of money proportioned to the state of the fund, which is assisted by = the=20 produce of their labour, and at this time was estimated at two thousand = dollars=20 per annum.

The men and boys are not less attended to: they are employed in = coarser work,=20 blanketing and all kinds of common woollens: if they become infirm they = spend=20 the remainder of their days here comfortably and under a watchful = inspector who=20 attends them in the same manner as the governess does the girls. They = are all=20 visited every day by the governor, and a clergyman attends them every = evening.=20 By this humane institution a number of people are rendered useful and=20 industrious in a country where the poor, from the indulgence of the = climate, are=20 too apt to prefer a life of inactivity, though attended with = wretchedness, to=20 obtaining the comforts of life by industry and labour.

The number of inhabitants in the island I was informed were estimated = at=20 between eighty and one hundred thousand. Their annual export of wine is = twenty=20 thousand pipes and of brandy half that quantity. Vessels are frequently = here=20 from St. Eustatia, and from thence a great quantity of Tenerife wine is = carried=20 to the different parts of the West Indies, under the name of = Madeira.

Tenerife is considered of more value than all the other Canaries: the = inhabitants however, in scarce seasons, receive supplies from the Grand = Canary;=20 but their vineyards here are said to be greatly superior. Their produce = of corn,=20 though exceedingly good, is not sufficient for their consumption; and = owing to=20 this the Americans have an advantageous trade here for their flour and = grain,=20 and take wine in return.

The town of Santa Cruz is about half a mile in extent each way, built = in a=20 regular manner, and the houses in general large and airy, but the = streets are=20 very ill paved. I am told that they are subject to few diseases; but if = any=20 epidemic distemper breaks out it is attended with the most fatal = consequences,=20 particularly the smallpox, the bad effects of which they now endeavour = to=20 counteract by inoculation. For this reason they are very circumspect in=20 admitting ships to have communication with the shore without bills of=20 health.

A sloop from London, called the Chance, William Meridith, master, = bound to=20 Barbados, out nineteen days from the Downs, came into the road the day = before we=20 sailed. She had suffered much by the bad weather but, having brought no = bill of=20 health, the governor would not allow any person to come on shore unless = I could=20 vouch for them that no epidemic disease raged in England at the time = they=20 sailed, which I was able to do, it being nearly at the same time that I = left the=20 land; and by that means they had the governor's permission to receive = the=20 supplies they wanted without being obliged to perform quarantine.

Thursday 10.

Having finished our business at Tenerife on Thursday the 10th we = sailed with=20 the wind at south-east, our ship's company all in good health and = spirits.

I now divided the people into three watches, and gave the charge of = the third=20 watch to Mr. Fletcher Christian, one of the mates. I have always = considered this=20 as a desirable regulation when circumstances will admit of it on many = accounts;=20 and am persuaded that unbroken rest not only contributes much towards = the health=20 of a ship's company but enables them more readily to exert themselves in = cases=20 of sudden emergency.

As it was my wish to proceed to Otaheite without stopping I ordered = everybody=20 to be at two-thirds allowance of bread: I also directed the water for = drinking=20 to be filtered though dripstones that I had bought at Tenerife for that=20 purpose.

In the evening we passed the south end of Tenerife which is a round = lump of=20 land that, from the lowness of the contiguous land, has at a distance = the=20 appearance of a separate island. By our run from the bay of Santa Cruz I = make=20 the latitude of the south end of Tenerife to be 28 degrees 6 minutes = north.

We ran all night towards the south-south-west having the wind at = south-east.=20 The next morning we could see nothing of the land. I now made the ship's = company=20 acquainted with the intent of the voyage and, having been permitted to = hold out=20 this encouragement to them, I gave assurances of the certainty of = promotion to=20 everyone whose endeavours should merit it.

The winds for some days after leaving Tenerife were mostly from the=20 southward. Fishing-lines and tackle were distributed amongst the people = and some=20 dolphins were caught.

Thursday 17.

On the 17th the wind came round to the north-east and continued = steady in=20 that quarter till the 25th on which day at noon we were in 3 degrees 54 = minutes=20 north. As the cloudiness of the sky gave us reason to expect much rain = we=20 prepared the awnings with hoses for the convenience of saving water, in = which we=20 were not disappointed. From this time to our meeting with the south-east = tradewind we had much wet weather, the air close and sultry with calms, = and=20 light variable winds generally from the southward.

Tuesday 29.

On the 29th there was so heavy a fall of rain that we caught seven = hundred=20 gallons of water.

Thursday 31.

On the 31st, latitude at noon 2 degrees 5 minutes north, found a = current=20 setting to the north-east at the rate of fourteen miles in the = twenty-four=20 hours. The thermometer was at 82 degrees in the shade, and 81 1/2 = degrees at the=20 surface of the sea, so that the air and the water were within half a = degree of=20 the same temperature. At eight o'clock in the evening we observed a = violent=20 rippling in the sea about half a mile to the north-west of us which had = very=20 much the appearance of breakers. This I imagine to have been occasioned = by a=20 large school (or multitude) of fish as it was exactly in the track the = ship had=20 passed, so that if any real shoal had been there we must have seen it at = the=20 close of the evening when a careful lookout was always kept. However if = it had=20 appeared ahead of us instead of astern I should certainly have tacked to = avoid=20 it. To such appearances I attribute the accounts of many shoals within = the=20 tropics which cannot be found anywhere but in maps. Our latitude at this = time=20 was 2 degrees 8 minutes north and longitude 19 degrees 43 minutes west. = The next=20 day we had more of these appearances from the number of schools of fish = by which=20 the ship was surrounded.

February. Saturday 2.

This morning we saw a sail to the north-north-west but at too great a = distance to distinguish what she was.

Monday 4.

Had very heavy rain during which we nearly filled all our empty water = casks.=20 So much wet weather, with the closeness of the air, covered everything = with=20 mildew. The ship was aired below with fires and frequently sprinkled = with=20 vinegar; and every little interval of dry weather was taken advantage of = to open=20 all the hatchways, and clean the ship, and to have all the people's wet = things=20 washed and dried.

With this weather and light unsteady winds we advanced but 2 1/2 = degrees in=20 twelve days; at the end of which time we were relieved by the south-east = tradewind which we fell in with on the 6th at noon in latitude 1 degree = 21=20 minutes north and longitude 20 degrees 42 minutes west.

Thursday 7.

The next afternoon we crossed the equinoctial line in longitude 21 = degrees 50=20 minutes west. The weather became fine and the south-east tradewind was = fresh and=20 steady, with which we kept a point free from the wind and got to the = southward=20 at a good rate.

The weather continuing dry we put some of our bread in casks, = properly=20 prepared for its reception, to preserve it from vermin: this experiment = we=20 afterwards found answered exceedingly well.

Saturday 16.

On the 16th at daylight we saw a sail to the southward. The next day = we came=20 up with her and found her to be the British Queen, Simon Paul, master, = from=20 London, bound to the Cape of Good Hope on the whale-fishery. She sailed = from=20 Falmouth the 5th of December, eighteen days before I left Spithead. By = this ship=20 I wrote to England. At sunset she was almost out of sight astern.

Monday 18.

In the course of this day's run the variation changed from west to = east.=20 According to our observations the true and magnetic meridians coincided = in=20 latitude 20 degrees 0 minutes south and longitude 31 degrees 15 minutes = west. At=20 noon we were in latitude 20 degrees 44 minutes south and longitude 31 = degrees 23=20 minutes west. In our advances towards the south the wind had gradually = veered=20 round to the east and was at this time at east-north-east. The weather = after=20 crossing the Line had been fine and clear, but the air so sultry as to = occasion=20 great faintness, the quicksilver in the thermometer in the daytime = standing at=20 between 81 and 83 degrees, and one time at 85 degrees. In our passage = through=20 the northern tropic the air was temperate, the sun having then high = south=20 declination and the weather being generally fine till we lost the = north-east=20 tradewind; but such a thick haze surrounded the horizon that no object = could be=20 seen except at a very small distance. The haze commonly cleared away at = sunset=20 and gathered again at sunrise. Between the north-east and south-east = tradewinds=20 the calms and rains, if of long continuance, are very liable to produce = sickness=20 unless great attention is paid to keeping the ship clean and wholesome = by giving=20 all the air possible, drying between decks with fires, and drying and = airing the=20 people's clothes and bedding. Besides these precautions we frequently = wetted=20 with vinegar, and every evening the pumps were used as ventilators. With = these=20 endeavours to secure health we passed the low latitudes without a single = complaint.

The currents we met with were by no means regular, nor have I ever = found them=20 so in the middle of the ocean. However from the channel to the southward = as far=20 as Madeira there is generally a current setting to the = south-south-east.

Thursday 21.

On the evening of the 21st a ship was seen in the north-east but at = too great=20 a distance to distinguish of what country.

Friday 22.

The next day the wind came round to the north and north-west so that = we could=20 no longer consider ourselves in the tradewind. Our latitude at noon was = 25=20 degrees 55 minutes south, longitude 36 degrees 29 minutes west. = Variation of the=20 compass three degrees east.

Saturday 23.

Towards night the wind died away and we had some heavy showers of = rain of=20 which we profited by saving a ton of good water. The next day we caught = a shark=20 and five dolphins.

Tuesday 26.

We bent new sails and made other necessary preparations for = encountering the=20 weather that was to be expected in a high latitude. Our latitude at noon = was 29=20 degrees 38 minutes south, longitude 41 degrees 44 minutes west. = Variation 7=20 degrees 13 minutes east. In the afternoon, the wind being westerly and = blowing=20 strong in squalls, some butterflies and other insects like what we call=20 horseflies were blown on board of us. No birds were seen except = shearwaters. Our=20 distance from the coast of Brazil at this time was above 100 = leagues.

March. Sunday 2.

In the forenoon, after seeing that every person was clean, divine = service was=20 performed according to my usual custom on this day. I gave to Mr. = Fletcher=20 Christian, whom I had before directed to take charge of the third watch, = a=20 written order to act as lieutenant.

Saturday 8.

We were at noon in latitude 36 degrees 50 minutes south and longitude = 52=20 degrees 53 minutes west. The last four days we several times tried for = soundings=20 without finding bottom, though considerably to the westward of Captain = Wallis'=20 track, who had soundings at fifty-four fathoms depth in latitude 35 = degrees 40=20 minutes south and longitude 49 degrees 54 minutes west. This day we = tried with=20 two hundred and forty fathoms of line but did not find bottom; at the = same time,=20 observing a rippling in the water, we tried the current by mooring a keg = with=20 one hundred fathoms of line, by which it appeared to run to the = north-north-west=20 at the rate of a mile and a half per hour. By the noon observation = however we=20 were eighteen miles to the southward of our reckoning. In the afternoon = we saw a=20 turtle floating and, not having much wind, hoisted a boat out and sent = after it;=20 but it was found to be in a putrid state with a number of crabs feeding = upon=20 it.

The change of temperature began now to be sensibly felt, there being = a=20 variation in the thermometer since yesterday of eight degrees. That the = people=20 might not suffer by their own negligence I gave orders for their light = tropical=20 clothing to be put by, and made them dress in a manner more suited to a = cold=20 climate. I had provided for this before I left England by giving = directions for=20 such clothes to be purchased as were necessary.

Monday 10.

In the forenoon we struck soundings at eighty-three fathoms depth; = our=20 latitude 40 degrees 8 minutes south and longitude 55 degrees 40 minutes = west.=20 This I conclude to have been near the edge of the bank for, the wind = being at=20 south-south-west, we stood towards the south-east; and after running = fourteen=20 miles in that direction we could find no bottom with one hundred and = sixty=20 fathoms of line. In the night we stood towards the west-south-west with = a=20 southerly wind and got again into soundings. The next day we saw a great = number=20 of whales of an immense size that had two spout-holes on the back of the = head.=20 Upon a complaint made to me by the master I found it necessary to punish = Matthew=20 Quintal, one of the seamen, with two dozen lashes for insolence and = mutinous=20 behaviour. Before this I had not had occasion to punish any person on = board.

Wednesday 12.

On the 12th we caught a porpoise by striking it with the grains. = Everyone eat=20 heartily of it; and it was so well liked that no part was wasted.

Friday 14.

On the 14th in the afternoon we saw a land-bird like a lark, and = passed part=20 of a dead whale that had been left by some whalers after they had taken = the=20 blubber off. Saw likewise two strange sail. The next day at noon our = latitude=20 was 43 degrees 6 minutes south and longitude 58 degrees 42 minutes west. = Had=20 soundings at seventy-five fathoms; the bottom a fine greenish sand. Saw = two=20 hawks.

Sunday 16.

On the 16th another ship was seen to the west-north-west standing to = the=20 northward. Latitude at noon 43 degrees 34 minutes south. We continued = running to=20 the southward keeping in soundings.

Wednesday 19.

On the 19th at noon by my account we were within twenty leagues of = Port=20 Desire; but the wind blowing fresh from the north-west with thick foggy = weather=20 I did not attempt to make the land. We passed a good deal of rock-weed = and saw=20 many whales, and albatrosses and other seabirds.

Thursday 20.

On the 20th at noon our latitude was 50 degrees 24 minutes south and=20 longitude 65 degrees 50 minutes west. In the afternoon the wind, which = had for=20 some time past been northerly, suddenly shifted to the west-south-west = and blew=20 hard.

Sunday 23.

We steered to the south-south-east and on the 23rd at two o'clock in = the=20 morning we discovered the coast of Tierra del Fuego bearing south-east. = At nine=20 in the forenoon we were off Cape St. Diego, the eastern part of Tierra = del=20 Fuego. Observed the variation here to be 21 degrees 23 east. The wind = being=20 unfavourable I thought it more advisable to go round to the eastward of = Staten=20 Land than to attempt passing through Straits le Maire. The two opposite = coasts=20 of the Straits exhibited very different appearances. The land of Tierra = del=20 Fuego hereabouts, though the interior parts are mountainous, yet near = the coast=20 is of a moderate height and, at the distance we were from it, had not an = unpromising appearance. The coast of Staten Land near the Straits is = mountainous=20 and craggy, and remarkable for its high peaked hills. Straits le Maire = is a fair=20 opening which cannot well be mistaken; but if any doubt could remain, = the=20 different appearances of the opposite shores would sufficiently make the = Straits=20 known.

I did not sail within less than six leagues of the coast that we = might have=20 the wind more regular and avoid being exposed to the heavy squalls that = came off=20 from the land. At noon Cape St. Anthony bore south and the westernmost = of New=20 Year's Isles south-east one-quarter south, five or six leagues. Latitude = observed 54 degrees 28 minutes south, longitude 64 degrees 4 minutes = west.

The sight of New Year's Harbour almost tempted me to put in; but the = lateness=20 of the season and the people being in good health determined me to lay = aside all=20 thoughts of refreshment until we should reach Otaheite. At two o'clock = in the=20 afternoon the easternmost of New Year's Isles, where Captain Cook = observed the=20 latitude to be 55 degrees 40 minutes south, bore from us south four = leagues. We=20 saw the entrance isles of New Year's harbour at the back of which the = land is=20 very craggy and mountainous. This must be a very convenient port to = touch at as=20 the access to it is safe and easy. The harbour lies south-south-east by = compass=20 from the north-east part of the easternmost of the New Year's = Islands.

About two leagues to the westward of Cape St. John I observed the = separation=20 of the mountains that Captain Cook has taken notice of, which has the = appearance=20 of Staten Land being there divided into two islands.

At sunset Cape St. John bore south-south-east five or six leagues. = The land=20 hereabouts is of less height and not so rugged as near New Year's = Harbour. The=20 night coming on I could get no good view of the coast near the Cape; and = at=20 daylight next morning we were at too great a distance.

Monday 24.

We had stood to the southward all night with the wind at = west-south-west and=20 south-west. At eight in the morning Cape St. John bore north-west ten = leagues=20 distant. Soon after we lost sight of the land.

From the result of my lunar observations, assisted by the timekeeper, = I make=20 the longitude of the west side of Straits le Maire 64 degrees 48 minutes = west;=20 the easternmost of the New Year's isles 63 degrees 52 minutes west; and = the=20 longitude of Cape St. John 63 degrees 19 minutes west.

In our run from the latitude of 12 degrees south to 48 degrees south = the ship=20 was set 2 degrees 30 minutes to the eastward by currents; and from the = latitude=20 of 48 degrees south to Staten Land the currents set us to the westward 2 = degrees=20 43 minutes; which I imagine to have been occasioned by an indraught into = the=20 Straits of Magellan.

From the time we lost sight of the land to the end of the month we = were=20 struggling with bad weather and contrary winds.

Monday 31.

But on the morning of the 31st the wind came to the north-north-east = and made=20 us entertain great hopes that we should be able to accomplish our = passage round=20 the Cape without much difficulty. At noon we were in latitude 60 degrees = 1=20 minute south and in 71 degrees 45 minutes west longitude, which is 8 = degrees 26=20 minutes west of the meridian of Cape St. John. This flattering = appearance was=20 not of long continuance: in the night the wind became variable and next = day=20 settled again in the west and north-west with very bad weather.

April. Wednesday 2.

On the 2nd in the morning the wind, which had blown fresh all night = from the=20 north-west, came round to the south-west and increased to a heavy gale. = At six=20 in the morning the storm exceeded what I had ever met with before; and = the sea,=20 from the frequent shifting of the wind, running in contrary directions, = broke=20 exceeding high. Our ship however lay to very well under a main and = fore-stay=20 sail. The gale continued with severe squalls of hail and sleet the = remainder of=20 this and all the next day.

Friday 4.

On the 4th the wind was less violent but far from moderate. With so = much bad=20 weather I found it necessary to keep a constant fire night and day; and = one of=20 the watch always attended to dry the people's wet clothes: and this I = have no=20 doubt contributed as much to their health as to their comfort.

Our companions in this in hospitable region were albatrosses and two=20 beautiful kinds of birds, the small blue petrel and pintada. A great = many of=20 these were frequently about the wake of the ship, which induced the = people to=20 float a line with hooks baited to endeavour to catch them and their = attempts=20 were successful. The method they used was to fasten the bait a foot or = two=20 before the hook and, by giving the line a sudden jerk when the bird was = at the=20 bait, it was hooked in the feet or body.

Sunday 6.

On the 6th the weather was moderate and continued so till the 9th = with the=20 wind veering between the north-west and south-west; of which we were = able to=20 take advantage.

Monday 7.

On the 7th observed the variation 27 degrees 9 minutes east; our = latitude 60=20 degrees 24 minutes south and longitude 75 degrees 54 minutes west.

Wednesday 9.

On the 9th at noon we were in latitude 59 degrees 31 minutes south = and our=20 longitude 76 degrees 58 minutes west, which is farther to the west than = we had=20 yet been. The weather was now unfavourable again, blowing strong from = the=20 westward with a high sea.

On the 10th we saw some fish which appeared spotted and about the = size of=20 bonetos: these were the only fish we had seen in this high latitude.

Saturday 12.

The stormy weather continued with a great sea. The ship now began to = complain=20 and required to be pumped every hour; which was no more than we had = reason to=20 expect from such a continuance of gales of wind and high seas. The decks = also=20 became so leaky that it was obliged to allot the great cabin, of which I = made=20 little use except in fine weather, to those people who had wet berths to = hang=20 their hammocks in, and by this means the between decks was less = crowded.

Every morning all the hammocks were taken down from where they hung, = and when=20 the weather was too bad to keep them upon deck they were put in the = cabin; so=20 that the between decks were cleaned daily and aired with fires if the = hatchways=20 could not be opened. With all this bad weather we had the additional=20 mortification to find at the end of every day that we were losing = ground; for=20 notwithstanding our utmost exertions and keeping on the most = advantageous tacks=20 (which if the weather had been at all moderate would have sufficiently = answered=20 our purpose) yet the greater part of the time we were doing little = better than=20 drifting before the wind.

Sunday 13.

Birds as usual were about the ship and some of them caught; and for = the first=20 time since we left Staten Land we saw some whales. This morning, owing = to the=20 violent motion of the ship, the cook fell and broke one of his ribs, and = another=20 man, by a fall, dislocated his shoulder. The gunner who had the charge = of a=20 watch was laid up with the rheumatism: and this was the first sicklist = that=20 appeared on board the ship. The time of full moon which was approaching = made me=20 entertain hopes that after that period we should experience some change = of wind=20 or weather in our favour; but the event did not at all answer our = expectations.=20 The latitude at noon this day was 58 degrees 9 minutes south and = longitude 76=20 degrees 1 minute west.

As we caught a good many birds but which were all lean and tasted = fishy we=20 tried an experiment upon them which succeeded admirably. By keeping them = cooped=20 up and cramming them with ground corn they improved wonderfully in a = short time;=20 so that the pintada birds became as fine as ducks, and the albatrosses = were as=20 fat, and not inferior in taste to, fine geese. Some of the latter birds = were=20 caught that measured seven feet between the extremities of the wings = when=20 spread. This unexpected supply came very opportunely; for none of our = livestock=20 remained except hogs, the sheep and poultry not being hardy enough to = stand the=20 severity of the weather.

Sunday 20.

This morning the wind died away and we had a calm for a few hours = which gave=20 us hopes that the next would be a more favourable wind. A hog was killed = for the=20 ship's company which gave them an excellent meal. Towards noon, to our = great=20 disappointment, the wind sprang up again from the westward and in the = afternoon=20 blew strong with snow and hailstorms.

Monday 21.

This was the second day after the full moon but, as I have remarked = before,=20 it had no influence on the weather. At noon our latitude was 58 degrees = 31=20 minutes south and longitude 70 degrees 7 minutes west, which is near = seven=20 degrees to the eastward of our situation on the morning of the 9th = instant, when=20 we had advanced the farthest in our power to the westward, being then in = 76=20 degrees 58 minutes west, three degrees to the west of Cape Deseada, the = west=20 part of the Straits of Magellan; and at this time we were 3 degrees 52 = minutes=20 to the east of it and hourly losing ground.

It was with much concern I saw how hopeless and even unjustifiable it = was to=20 persist any longer in attempting a passage this way to the Society = Islands. We=20 had been thirty days in this tempestuous ocean. At one time we had = advanced so=20 far to the westward as to have a fair prospect of making our passage = round; but=20 from that period hard gales of westerly wind had continued without = intermission,=20 a few hours excepted, which, to borrow an expression in Lord Anson's = voyage,=20 were "like the elements drawing breath to return upon us with redoubled=20 violence." The season was now too far advanced for us to expect more = favourable=20 winds or weather, and we had sufficiently experienced the impossibility = of=20 beating round against the wind, or of advancing at all without the help = of a=20 fair wind for which there was little reason to hope. Another = consideration which=20 had great weight with me was that, if I persisted in my attempt this way = and=20 should after all fail to get round, it would occasion such a loss of = time that=20 our arrival at Otaheite soon enough to return in the proper season by = the East=20 Indies would be rendered precarious. On the other hand the prevalence of = the=20 westerly winds in high southern latitudes left me no reason to doubt of = making a=20 quick passage to the Cape of Good Hope and thence to the eastward round = New=20 Holland.

Tuesday 22.

Having maturely considered all circumstances I determined to bear = away for=20 the Cape of Good Hope; and at five o'clock on the evening of the 22nd, = the wind=20 then blowing strong at west, I ordered the helm to be put a weather, to = the=20 great joy of every person on board. Our sicklist at this time had = increased to=20 eight, mostly with rheumatic complaints: in other respects the people = were in=20 good health, though exceedingly jaded.

The passage round Cape Horn into the South Seas during the summer = months has=20 seldom been attended with difficulty and is to be preferred in the = moderate=20 seasons to the more distant route to the eastward round the Cape of Good = Hope=20 and New Holland. If we had been one month earlier, or perhaps less, I = doubt not=20 but we should have effected our passage.

The soundings that are met with off the coast of America, from the = latitude=20 of 36 degrees south to the southward, are very convenient to enable = ships to=20 judge of their distance from the land, as thick fogs are very frequent = near that=20 coast. If the winds are favourable, to go through Straits le Maire must=20 considerably shorten the passage round Cape Horn, as all the distance = saved is=20 so much gained to the westward. I am informed that several harbours have = been=20 lately discovered by the South Sea whalers on the north side of Staten = Island=20 that afford safe anchorage with supplies of wood and water.

While we were off Cape Horn I did not observe that our situation was = at all=20 affected by currents.

CHAPTER 3.

Passage towards the Cape of Good Hope and Search after = Tristan=20 da Cunha.
Arrival at False Bay.
Occurrences there.
Reports = concerning=20 the Grosvenor's People.
Departure from the Cape.

1788. April. Friday 25.

The westerly winds and stormy weather continuing gave me no reason to = repent=20 of my determination. On the 25th at noon we were in latitude 54 degrees = 16=20 minutes south and longitude 57 degrees 4 minutes west. The nearest of = the=20 Falkland Islands by my reckoning then bore north 13 degrees west; = distance 23=20 leagues. Our stock of water being sufficient to serve us to the Cape of = Good=20 Hope I did not think it worth while to stop at these islands as the = refreshment=20 we might obtain there would scarce repay us for the expense of time: we=20 therefore continued our course towards the north-east and = east-north-east.

May. Friday 9.

On the 9th of May at eight o'clock in the evening we were near the = situation=20 of Tristan da Cunha, our latitude being 37 degrees 7 minutes south and = longitude=20 15 degrees 26 minutes west. All the afternoon the weather had been clear = enough=20 for land of a moderate height to be seen at least seven leagues; I = therefore=20 concluded that we had not yet passed the meridian of the island; for the = most=20 western position given to it from any authority is 15 degrees 0 minutes=20 west.

As I wished to make this island we kept our wind on different tacks = during=20 the night, that we might be nearly in the same place at daylight in the = morning=20 as on the preceding evening: in the morning no land being in sight we = continued=20 to steer to the eastward.

Saturday 10.

We ran on all day having clear weather but without seeing anything to = indicate our being near land. At noon our latitude observed was 37 = degrees 27=20 minutes south which, being more to the southward than we had reason to = expect, I=20 altered the course to the northward and steered north-east all the = afternoon. At=20 six o'clock in the evening we were in latitude 37 degrees 0 minutes = south and=20 longitude 12 degrees 42 minutes west, having a clear horizon but not the = least=20 sign of being in the neighbourhood of land. With the night came thick = rainy=20 weather and we were now to the eastward of the situation ascribed to = Tristan da=20 Cunha; I therefore determined to give over the search and to resume our = course=20 towards the Cape of Good Hope.

The island of Tristan da Cunha, by Robertson's Elements, is laid down = in 37=20 degrees 12 minutes south latitude and 13 degrees 23 minutes west = longitude. In=20 Captain Cook's general map, prefixed to his last voyage, it is placed in = the=20 same latitude but in 15 degrees west longitude. From our track and the = clearness=20 of the weather I am convinced, if the latitude ascribed to it as above = is=20 correct, that it is not to be found between the meridians of 16 degrees = 30=20 minutes west and 12 degrees 30 minutes west. On the 13th I had a number = of lunar=20 observations for the longitude, the mean of which agreed exactly with = the=20 timekeeper.*

(*Footnote. In Mr. Dalrymple's Collection of Plans which I = had not=20 with me the northernmost of the Islands of Tristan d'Acunha is placed = in=20 latitude 37 degrees 22 minutes south and longitude 13 degrees 17 = minutes west.=20 I think it probable we missed them by being too much to the=20 northward.

In this passage the weather was generally so cloudy that I had few=20 opportunities to make observations of any kind except for the noon = latitudes. I=20 could not determine when we crossed the line of no variation. The two = nearest=20 observations to it were: the first in 39 degrees 51 minutes south = latitude and=20 26 degrees 11 minutes west longitude, where the variation of the compass = was=20 found to be 3 degrees 17 minutes east; and the other in latitude 35 = degrees 30=20 minutes south and longitude 5 degrees 21 minutes west, where I observed = the=20 variation 11 degrees 35 minutes west; between these we had no = intermediate=20 observation for the variation.

Thursday 22.

At two in the afternoon we saw the Table Mountain of the Cape of Good = Hope.=20 As it is reckoned unsafe riding in Table Bay at this time of year I = steered for=20 False Bay. The next evening we anchored in the outer part.

Saturday 24.

And on the forenoon of the 24th got the ship secured in Simon's Bay, = which is=20 in the inner part of False Bay. When moored, Noah's ark bore south 35 = degrees=20 east three-quarters of a mile, and the hospital south 72 west. We found = lying=20 here one outward bound Dutch Indiaman, five other Dutch ships, and a = French=20 ship.

After saluting the fort, which was returned by an equal number of = guns, I=20 went on shore and dispatches were sent away to Cape Town to acquaint the = governor of our arrival. A Dutch ship at this time lying in Table Bay = bound for=20 Europe, I sent letters by her to the Admiralty. It is very unusual for = ships to=20 be in Table Bay so late in the year, on account of the strong north-west = winds.=20 April is the time limited.

I gave the necessary directions for getting our wants supplied. The = ship=20 required to be caulked in every part for she was become so leaky that we = had=20 been obliged to pump every hour in our passage from Cape Horn. This we=20 immediately set about, as well as repairing our sails and rigging. The = severe=20 weather we had met with and the leakiness of the ship made it necessary = to=20 examine into the state of all the stores and provisions. Of the latter a = good=20 deal was found damaged, particularly the bread. The timekeeper I took on = shore=20 to ascertain its rate, and other instruments to make the necessary = astronomical=20 observations. Fresh meat, with soft bread and plenty of vegetables, were = issued=20 daily to the ship's company the whole time we remained here. A few days = after=20 our arrival I went over to Cape Town and waited on his excellency M. = Vander=20 Graaf, the governor, who obligingly arranged matters so much to our = advantage=20 that we scarcely felt the inconvenience of being at a distance from the = Cape=20 Town, whence we received all our supplies.

The Cape Town is considerably increased within the last eight years. = Its=20 respectability with regard to strength has kept pace with its other = enlargements=20 and rendered it very secure against any attempt which is not made with=20 considerable force. Great attention is paid to military order and = discipline;=20 and monthly signals are established to communicate with their shipping = as they=20 arrive near the coast that they may not run unawares into the hands of = an enemy.=20 I found everything much dearer than when I was here in 1780. Sheep cost = four=20 Spanish dollars each and were so small that it answered better to = purchase the=20 mutton for the ship's daily use at fourpence per pound.

During our stay here I took care to procure seeds and plants that = would be=20 valuable at Otaheite and the different places we might touch at in our = way=20 thither. In this I was greatly assisted by colonel Gordon, the commander = of the=20 troops. In company with this gentleman the loss of the Grosvenor East = Indiaman=20 was mentioned: on this subject colonel Gordon expressed great concern = that from=20 anything he had said hopes were still entertained to flatter the = affectionate=20 wishes of the surviving friends of those unfortunate people. He said = that in his=20 travels into the Caffre country he had met with a native who described = to him=20 that there was a white woman among his countrymen who had a child, and = that she=20 frequently embraced the child and cried most violently. This was all he = (the=20 colonel) could understand and, being then on his return home with his = health=20 much impaired by fatigue, the only thing that he could do was to make a = friend=20 of the native by presents and promises of reward on condition that he = would take=20 a letter to this woman and bring him back an answer. Accordingly he = wrote=20 letters in English, French, and Dutch desiring that some sign or mark = might be=20 returned, either by writing with a burnt stick or by any means she = should be=20 able to devise, to satisfy him that she was there; and that on receiving = such=20 token from her every effort should be made to ensure her safety and = escape. But=20 the Caffre, although apparently delighted with the commission which he = had=20 undertaken, never returned, nor has the colonel ever heard anything more = of him,=20 though he had been instructed in methods of conveying information = through the=20 Hottentot country.

To this account, that I may not again have occasion to introduce so=20 melancholy a subject, I shall add the little information I received = respecting=20 it when I revisited the Cape in my return towards Europe. A reputable = farmer of=20 the name of Holhousen, who lives at Swellendam, eight days journey from = the=20 Cape, had information from some Caffre Hottentots that at a kraal or = village in=20 their country there were white men and women. On this intelligence Mr. = Holhousen=20 asked permission of the governor to make an expedition with some of the = farmers=20 into the country, requiring a thousand rix-dollars to bear his expenses. = The=20 governor referred him to Mr. Wocke, the Landros of Graaf Rienet, a new = colony in=20 his way. But from the place where Mr. Holhousen lives to the Landros, = Mr.=20 Wocke's residence, is a month's journey, which he did not choose to = undertake at=20 an uncertainty, as Mr. Wocke might have disapproved of the enterprise. = It was in=20 October last that Mr. Holhousen offered to go on this service. He was = one of the=20 party who went along the sea-coast in search of these unfortunate people = when a=20 few of them first made their appearance at the Cape. I am however = informed that=20 the Dutch farmers are fond of making expeditions into the country, that = they may=20 have opportunities of taking away cattle; and this I apprehend to be one = of the=20 chief reasons why undertakings of this kind are not encouraged.

On the 13th of June the Dublin East Indiaman arrived from England, on = board=20 of which ship was a party of the 77th regiment under the command of = colonel=20 Balfour.

The result of my lunar observations gave for the longitude of Simon's = Bay 18=20 degrees 48 minutes 34 seconds east; the latitude 34 degrees 11 minutes = 34=20 seconds south. The timekeeper likewise made the longitude 18 degrees 47 = minutes=20 east. The longitude as established by former observations is 18 degrees = 33=20 minutes east. The variation of the compass on shore was 24 degrees 4 = minutes=20 west; but on board of the ship it was only 22 degrees 28 minutes west. = The time=20 of high-water was three-quarters past two on the full and change and it = then=20 flowed six feet.

With respect to the Cape Promontory it lies about three miles east of = the=20 meridian of Simon's Town. All the tables of latitude and longitude place = the=20 Cape in 34 degrees 29 minutes south latitude; but from many observations = off it=20 with good instruments I make it to lie in 34 degrees 23 minutes south, = which=20 agrees with its situation as laid down in major Rennel's map. The part = which I=20 call the Cape is the southernmost point of the land between Table Bay = and False=20 Bay; but the Dutch consider the westernmost part of the coast to be the=20 Cape.

Sunday 29.

On the 29th, being ready for sea, I took the timekeeper and = instruments on=20 board. The error of the timekeeper was 3 33 seconds, 2 too slow for the = mean=20 time at Greenwich, and its rate of going 3 seconds per day, losing. The=20 thermometer during our stay here was from 51 to 66 degrees.

July. Tuesday 1.

We had been thirty-eight days at this place, and my people had = received all=20 the advantage that could be derived from the refreshments of every kind = that are=20 here to be met with. We sailed at four o'clock this afternoon, and = saluted the=20 platform with thirteen guns as we ran out of the bay, which were = returned.

CHAPTER 4.

Passage towards Van Diemen's Land.
Make the Island of = St.=20 Paul.
Arrival in Adventure Bay.
Natives seen.
Sail from Van = Diemen's=20 Land.

1788. July.

We lost sight of the land the day after leaving False Bay and steered = towards=20 the east-south-east, having variable winds the first week with much = thunder,=20 lightning and rain. The remainder of this passage the winds were mostly = between=20 the south and west blowing strong. There were almost every day great = numbers of=20 pintada, albatrosses, blue petrels, and other oceanic birds about us; = but it was=20 observed that if the wind came from the northward, only for a few hours, = the=20 birds generally left us, and their presence again was the forerunner of = a=20 southerly wind.

Sunday 13.

The variation of the compass was 30 degrees 34 minutes west which was = the=20 greatest variation we found in this track. Our latitude 36 degrees 28 = minutes=20 south and longitude 39 degrees 0 minutes east.

Sunday 20.

The latitude at noon was 40 degrees 30 minutes south and longitude 60 = degrees=20 7 minutes east. We were at this time scudding under the fore-sail and=20 close-reefed main-top-sail, the wind blowing strong from the west. An = hour after=20 noon the gale increased and blew with so much violence that the ship was = almost=20 driven forecastle under before we could get the sails clewed up. As soon = as the=20 sails were taken in we brought the ship to the wind, lowered the lower = yards,=20 and got the top-gallant-masts upon deck, which eased the ship very = much.

Monday 21.

We remained lying to till eight the next morning when we bore away = under a=20 reefed fore-sail. In the afternoon the sea ran so high that it became = very=20 unsafe to stand on: we therefore brought to the wind again, and remained = lying=20 to all night without accident excepting that the man at the steerage was = thrown=20 over the wheel and much bruised.

Tuesday 22.

Towards noon the violence of the storm abated and we again bore away = under=20 the reefed fore-sail. Our latitude at noon 38 degrees 49 minutes south: = in the=20 afternoon saw some whales.

We continued running to the eastward in this parallel, it being my = intention=20 to make the island St. Paul.

Monday 28.

On Monday the 28th at six in the morning we saw the island bearing = east by=20 north 12 leagues distant: between 10 and 11 o'clock we ran along the = south side=20 at about a league distant from the shore. There was a verdure that = covered the=20 higher parts of the land, but I believe it was nothing more than moss = which is=20 commonly found on the tops of most rocky islands in these latitudes. We = saw=20 several whales near the shore. The extent of this island is five miles = from east=20 to west; and about two or three from north to south. As we passed the = east end=20 we saw a remarkable high sugarloaf rock, abreast of which I have been = informed=20 is good anchorage in 23 fathoms, the east point bearing south-west by = south by=20 true compass. I had this information from the captain of a Dutch packet = in which=20 I returned to Europe. He likewise said there was good fresh water on the = island=20 and a hot spring which boiled fish in as great perfection as on a fire. = By his=20 account the latitude which he observed in the road is 38 degrees 39 = minutes=20 south; and from the anchoring place the island of Amsterdam was in sight = to the=20 northward. We had fair weather all the forenoon, but just at noon a = squall came=20 on which was unfavourable for our observation. I had however two sets of = double=20 altitudes and a good altitude exactly at noon according to the = timekeeper. The=20 result of these gave for the latitude of the centre of St. Paul 38 = degrees 47=20 minutes south. The longitude I make 77 degrees 39 minutes east. The = variation of=20 the compass, taking the mean of what it was observed to be the day = before we saw=20 the island and the day after, is 19 degrees 30 minutes west.

At noon we were three leagues past the island. We kept on towards the = east-south-east, and for several days continued to see rock-weed, which = is=20 remarked to be generally the case after ships pass St. Paul's; but to = the=20 westward of it very seldom any is seen.

August. Wednesday 13.

In latitude 44 degrees 16 minutes south, longitude 122 degrees 7 = minutes=20 east, I observed the variation of the compass to be 6 degrees 23 minutes = west. I=20 had no opportunity to observe it again till in the latitude of 43 = degrees 56=20 minutes south, longitude 133 degrees 16 minutes east, when it was 1 = degree 38=20 minutes east; so that we had passed the line of no variation. In 1780, = on board=20 the Resolution in latitude 44 degrees 23 minutes south, longitude 131 = degrees 28=20 minutes east, the variation was observed 6 degrees 0 minutes west, which = is a=20 remarkable difference. We had much bad weather with snow and hail, and = in our=20 approach to Van Diemen's Land nothing was seen to indicate the nearness = of the=20 coast, except a seal, when we were within the distance of 20 = leagues.

Tuesday 19.

At ten o'clock this afternoon we saw the rock named the Mewstone, = that lies=20 near the south-west cape of Van Diemen's Land, bearing north-east about = six=20 leagues. The wind blew strong from the north-west. As soon as we had = passed the=20 Mewstone we were sheltered from a very heavy sea which ran from the = westward. At=20 eight o'clock at night we were abreast of the south cape when the wind = became=20 light and variable. Saw several fires inland.

The Mewstone is a high bold rock that lies five leagues to the = south-east of=20 the south-west cape and is the part that all ships bound this way should = endeavour to make. Its latitude is 43 degrees 46 or 47 minutes. Several = islands=20 lie to the northward between that and the main, among which, bearing = north by=20 west from the Mewstone, is a high rock much resembling it; and = north-north-east=20 from the Mewstone, on the mainland, is a remarkable high mountain, which = in this=20 direction appears notched like a cock's comb; but as viewed from the = eastward=20 seems round.

Wednesday 20.

All the 20th we were endeavouring to get into Adventure Bay but were=20 prevented by variable winds. The next morning at five o'clock we = anchored in the=20 outer part, and at sunrise weighed again: at noon we anchored well in = the bay=20 and moored the ship, Penguin Island bearing north 57 1/2 degrees east, = about two=20 miles distant; Cape Frederic Henry north 23 degrees east; and the mouth = of the=20 Lagoon south 16 degrees east.

In our passage from the Cape of Good Hope the winds were mostly from = the=20 westward with very boisterous weather: but one great advantage that this = season=20 of the year has over the summer months is in being free from fogs. I = have=20 already remarked that the approach of strong southerly winds is = announced by=20 many kinds of birds of the albatross or petrel tribe, and the abatement = of the=20 gale, or a shift of wind to the northward, by their keeping away. The=20 thermometer also very quickly shows when a change of these winds may be = expected=20 by varying sometimes six and seven degrees in its height. I have reason = to=20 believe that, after we passed the island St. Paul, there was a westerly = current;=20 the ship being every day to the westward of the reckoning, which in the = whole,=20 from St. Paul to Van Diemen's land, made a difference of four degrees = between=20 the longitude by the reckoning and the true longitude.

Thursday 21.

The ship being moored I went in a boat to look out for the most = convenient=20 place to wood and water at, which I found to be at the west end of the = beach:=20 for the surf, though considerable, was less there than at any other part = of the=20 bay. The water was in a gully about sixty yards from the beach; it was = perfectly=20 good but, being only a collection from the rains, the place is always = dry in the=20 summer months; for we found no water in it when I was here with Captain = Cook in=20 January 1777. We had very little success in hauling the seine; about = twenty=20 small flounders, and flat-headed fish called foxes were all that were = taken.

I found no signs of the natives having lately frequented this bay or = of any=20 European vessels having been here since the Resolution and Discovery in = 1777.=20 From some of the old trunks of trees then cut down I saw shoots about=20 twenty-five feet high and fourteen inches in circumference.

In the evening I returned on board.

Friday 22.

The next morning, the 22nd, at daylight, a party was sent on shore = for=20 wooding and watering under the command of Mr. Christian and the gunner; = and I=20 directed that one man should be constantly employed in washing the = people's=20 clothes. There was so much surf that the wood was obliged to be rafted = off in=20 bundles to the boat. Mr. Nelson informed me that in his walks today he = saw a=20 tree in a very healthy state which he measured and found to be = thirty-three feet=20 and a half in girt; its height was proportioned to its bulk.

Saturday 23.

The surf was rather greater than yesterday which very much = interrupted our=20 wooding and watering. Nelson today picked up a male opossum that had = been=20 recently killed, or had died, for we could not perceive any wound unless = it had=20 received a blow on the back where there was a bare place about the size = of a=20 shilling. It measured fourteen inches from the ears to the beginning of = the tail=20 which was exactly the same length.

Most of the forest trees were at this time shedding their bark. There = are=20 three kinds, which are distinguished from each other by their leaves, = though the=20 wood appears to be the same. Many of them are full one hundred and fifty = feet=20 high; but most of those that we cut down were decayed at the heart. = There are,=20 besides the forest trees, several other kinds that are firm good wood = and may be=20 cut for most purposes except masts; neither are the forest trees good = for masts,=20 on account of their weight, and the difficulty of finding them = thoroughly sound.=20 Mr. Nelson asserted that they shed their bark every year, and that they = increase=20 more from the seed than by suckers.

I found the tide made a difference of full two feet in the height of = the=20 water in the lake at the back of the beach. At high water it was very = brackish,=20 but at low tide it was perfectly fresh to the taste, and soap showed no = sign of=20 its being the least impregnated. We had better success in fishing on = board the=20 ship than by hauling the seine on shore; for with hooks and lines a = number of=20 fine rock-cod were caught. I saw today several eagles, some beautiful=20 blue-plumaged herons, and a great variety of parakeets. A few = oyster-catchers=20 and gulls were generally about the beach, and in the lake a few wild = ducks.

Monday 25.

Being in want of plank I directed a saw-pit to be dug and employed = some of=20 the people to saw trees into plank. The greater part of this week the = winds were=20 moderate with unsettled weather.

Friday 29.

On Friday it blew strong from the south-west with rain, thunder, and=20 lightning. We continued to catch fish in sufficient quantities for = everybody and=20 had better success with the seine. We were fortunate also in angling in = the lake=20 where we caught some very fine tench. Some of the people felt a sickness = from=20 eating mussels that were gathered from the rocks; but I believe it was=20 occasioned by eating too many. We found some spider-crabs, most of them = not=20 good, being the female sort and out of season. The males were tolerably = good and=20 were known by the smallness of their two fore-claws or feeders. We saw = the trunk=20 of a dead tree on which had been cut A.D. 1773. The figures were very = distinct;=20 even the slips made with the knife were discernible. This must have been = done by=20 some of captain Furneaux's people in March 1773, fifteen years before. = The marks=20 of the knife remaining so unaltered, I imagine the tree must have been = dead when=20 it was cut; but it serves to show the durability of the wood for it was=20 perfectly sound at this time. I shot two gannets: these birds were of = the same=20 size as those in England; their colour is a beautiful white, with the = wings and=20 tail tipped with jet black and the top and back of the head of a very = fine=20 yellow. Their feet were black with four claws, on each of which was a = yellow=20 line the whole length of the foot. The bill was four inches long, = without=20 nostrils, and very taper and sharp-pointed.

The east side of the bay being not so thick of wood as the other = parts, and=20 the soil being good, I fixed on it, at Nelson's recommendation, as the = most=20 proper situation for planting some of the fruit-trees which I had = brought from=20 the Cape of Good Hope. A circumstance much against anything succeeding = here is=20 that in the dry season the fires made by the natives are apt to = communicate to=20 the dried grass and underwood, and to spread in such a manner as to = endanger=20 everything that cannot bear a severe scorching. We however chose what we = thought=20 the safest situations, and planted three fine young apple-trees, nine = vines, six=20 plantain-trees, a number of orange and lemon-seed, cherry-stones, plum, = peach,=20 and apricot-stones, pumpkins, also two sorts of Indian corn, and apple = and pear=20 kernels. The ground is well adapted for the trees, being of a rich loamy = nature.=20 The spot where we made our plantation was clear of underwood; and we = marked the=20 trees that stood nearest to the different things which were planted. = Nelson=20 followed the circuit of the bay, planting in such places as appeared = most=20 eligible. I have great hopes that some of these articles will succeed. = The=20 particular situations I had described in my survey of this place, but I = was=20 unfortunately prevented from bringing it home. Near the watering place = likewise=20 we planted on a flat, which appeared a favourable situation, some = onions,=20 cabbage-roots, and potatoes.

For some days past a number of whales were seen in the bay. They were = of the=20 same kind as those we had generally met with before, having two = blow-holes on=20 the back of the head.

September. Monday 1.

On the night of the 1st of September we observed for the first time = signs of=20 the natives being in the neighbourhood. Fires were seen on the low land = near=20 Cape Frederick Henry, and at daylight we saw the natives with our = glasses. As I=20 expected they would come round to us I remained all the forenoon near = the=20 wooding and watering parties, making observations, the morning being = very=20 favourable for that purpose. I was however disappointed in my conjecture = for the=20 natives did not appear, and there was too great a surf for a boat to = land on the=20 part where we had seen them.

Tuesday 2.

The natives not coming near us, I determined to go after them, and we = set out=20 in a boat towards Cape Frederick Henry, where we arrived about eleven = o'clock. I=20 found landing impracticable and therefore came to a grapnel, in hopes of = their=20 coming to us, for we had passed several fires. After waiting near an = hour I was=20 surprised to see Nelson's assistant come out of the wood: he had = wandered thus=20 far in search of plants and told me that he had met with some of the = natives.=20 Soon after we heard their voices like the cackling of geese, and twenty = persons=20 came out of the wood, twelve of whom went round to some rocks where the = boat=20 could get nearer to the shore than we then were. Those who remained = behind were=20 women.

We approached within twenty yards of them, but there was no = possibility of=20 landing and I could only throw to the shore, tied up in paper, the = presents=20 which I intended for them. I showed the different articles as I tied = them up,=20 but they would not untie the paper till I made an appearance of leaving = them.=20 They then opened the parcels and, as they took the articles out, placed = them on=20 their heads. On seeing this I returned towards them when they instantly = put=20 everything out of their hands and would not appear to take notice of = anything=20 that we had given them. After throwing a few more beads and nails on = shore I=20 made signs for them to go to the ship, and they likewise made signs for = me to=20 land, but as this could not be effected I left them, in hopes of a = nearer=20 interview at the watering-place.

When they first came in sight they made a prodigious clattering in = their=20 speech and held their arms over their heads. They spoke so quick that I = could=20 not catch one single word they uttered. We recollected one man whom we = had=20 formerly seen among the party of the natives that came to us in 1777, = and who is=20 particularised in the account of Captain Cook's last voyage for his = humour and=20 deformity. Some of them had a small stick, two or three feet long, in = their=20 hands, but no other weapon.

Their colour, as Captain Cook remarks, is a dull black: their skin is = scarified about their shoulders and breast. They were of a middle = stature, or=20 rather below it. One of them was distinguished by his body being = coloured with=20 red ochre, but all the others were painted black with a kind of soot = which was=20 laid on so thick over their faces and shoulders that it is difficult to = say what=20 they were like.

They ran very nimbly over the rocks, had a very quick sight, and = caught the=20 small beads and nails which I threw to them with great dexterity. They = talked to=20 us sitting on their heels with their knees close into their armpits and = were=20 perfectly naked.

In my return towards the ship I landed at the point of the harbour = near=20 Penguin Island, and from the hills saw the water on the other side of = the low=20 isthmus of Cape Frederick Henry, which forms the bay of that name. It is = very=20 extensive and in, or near, the middle of the bay there is a low island. = From=20 this spot it has the appearance of being a very good and convenient = harbour.

The account which I had from Brown, the botanist's assistant, was = that in his=20 search for plants he had met an old man, a young woman, and two or three = children. The old man at first appeared alarmed, but became familiar on = being=20 presented with a knife. He nevertheless sent away the young woman who = went very=20 reluctantly. He saw some miserable wigwams, in which were nothing but a = few=20 kangaroo skins spread on the ground, and a basket made of rushes.

Among the wood that we cut here we found many scorpions and = centipedes, with=20 numerous black ants that were an inch long. We saw no mosquitoes, though = in the=20 summer months they are very troublesome.

What is called the New Zealand tea plant grew here in great = abundance; so=20 that it was not only gathered and dried to use as tea but made excellent = brooms.=20 It bears a small pointed leaf of a pleasant smell, and its seed is = contained in=20 a berry, about the size of a pea, notched into five equal parts on the = top. The=20 soil on the west and south sides of the bay is black mould with a = mixture of=20 fine white sand and is very rich. The trees are lofty and large, and the = underwood grows so close together that in many places it is impassable. = The east=20 side of the bay is a rich loamy soil; but near the tops of the hills is = very=20 much encumbered with stones and rocks: the underwood thinly placed and = small.=20 The trees on the south, south-east, and south-west sides of the hills = grow to a=20 larger size than those that are exposed to the opposite points; for the = sides of=20 the trees open or exposed to the north winds are naked with few = branches; while=20 the other sides are in a flourishing state. From this I do not infer = that the=20 equatorial are more hurtful than the polar winds; but that the trees by = their=20 situation were more sheltered from the one for from the other.

Wednesday 3.

A calm prevented our sailing today. The friendly interview which we = had had=20 with the natives made me expect that they would have paid us a visit; = but we saw=20 nothing more of them except fires in the night upon the low land to the=20 northward.

The result of the observations which I made here, reduced to Penguin = Island,=20 place it in 43 degrees 21 minutes 11 seconds south latitude and in = longitude 147=20 degrees 33 minutes 29 seconds east, which scarcely differs from the = observations=20 made in 1777. The variation of the compass observed on shore was 8 = degrees 38=20 minutes east; and on board the ship 8 degrees 29 minutes east. It was = high-water=20 at the change of the moon at 49 minutes past six in the morning. The = rise was=20 two feet eight inches. Southerly winds, if of any continuance, make a=20 considerable difference in the height of the tides.

Thursday 4.

This forenoon, having a pleasant breeze at north-west, we weighed = anchor and=20 sailed out of Adventure Bay. At noon the southernmost part of Maria's = Isles bore=20 north 52 degrees east, about five leagues distant; Penguin Island south = 86=20 degrees west; and Cape Frederick Henry north 65 degrees west. In this = position=20 we had soundings at 57 fathoms, a sandy bottom. Latitude observed 43 = degrees 22=20 minutes south.

The southern part of Maria's Islands lie in latitude 43 degrees 16 = minutes=20 south. The country is not in general woody, but in some of the interior = parts=20 there appeared great abundance. Among these islands I have no doubt of = there=20 being many convenient places for shipping. On the east side in latitude = 42=20 degrees 42 minutes south and longitude 148 degrees 24 minutes east in = July,=20 1789, Captain Cox of the Mercury found a convenient and secure harbour = from all=20 winds which he named Oyster Bay. Here he found wood, water, and fish in = great=20 abundance. It has two outlets and lies north, a little easterly, distant = 34=20 miles from the south-easternmost island, or point, seen from Adventure = Bay.

Adventure Bay is a convenient and safe place for any number of ships = to take=20 in wood and water during the summer months: but in the winter, when the=20 southerly winds are strong, the surf, on all parts of the shore, makes = the=20 landing exceedingly troublesome. The bay of Frederick Henry may perhaps = be found=20 preferable, as it appears to be equally easy of access. The soundings in = Adventure Bay are very regular: near the west shore are some patches of = weed but=20 no shoal or danger, the depth on them being from five to nine = fathoms.

CHAPTER 5.

Rocky Islands discovered.
See the Island Maitea and = arrive=20 at Otaheite.
Ship crowded by the Natives.

1788. September.

Being clear of the land we steered towards the east-south-east, it = being my=20 intention to pass to the southward of New Zealand, as I expected in that = route=20 to meet with constant westerly winds; in which however I was = disappointed, for=20 they proved variable and frequently from the eastward blowing strong, = with thick=20 misty weather. The thermometer varied from 41 to 46 degrees.

Sunday 14.

On the 14th at noon we were in 49 degrees 24 minutes south latitude = and in=20 168 degrees 3 minutes east longitude, which is on the same meridian with = the=20 south end of New Zealand. We altered our course, steering to the = northward of=20 east, and frequently saw rock-weed which I supposed to have drifted from = New=20 Zealand. The sea now became rougher from our being exposed to a long = swell which=20 came from the north-east.

Friday 19.

On the 19th at daylight we discovered a cluster of small rocky = islands=20 bearing east by north four leagues distant from us. We had seen no birds = or=20 anything to indicate the nearness of land except patches of rock-weed, = for which=20 the vicinity of New Zealand sufficiently accounted. The wind being at = north-east=20 prevented our near approach to these isles; so that we were not less = than three=20 leagues distant in passing to the southward of them. The weather was too = thick=20 to see distinctly: their extent was only 3 1/2 miles from east to west = and about=20 half a league from north to south: their number including the smaller = ones was=20 thirteen. I could not observe any verdure on any of them: there were = white spots=20 like patches of snow but, as Captain Cook, in describing the land of New = Zealand, near Cape South, says, in many places there are patches like = white=20 marble, it is probable that what we saw might be of the same kind as = what he had=20 observed. The westernmost of these islands is the largest; they are of=20 sufficient height to be seen at the distance of seven leagues from a = ship's=20 deck. When the easternmost bore north I tried for soundings, being then = 10 miles=20 distant from the nearest of them, and found bottom at 75 fathoms, a fine = white=20 sand: and again at noon, having run six leagues more to the = east-south-east, we=20 had soundings at 104 fathoms, a fine brimstone-coloured sand. The = latitude of=20 these islands is 47 degrees 44 minutes south; their longitude 179 = degrees 7=20 minutes east, which is about 145 leagues to the east of the Traps, near = the=20 south end of New Zealand. Variation of the compass here 17 degrees east. = While=20 in sight of the islands we saw some penguins, and a white kind of gull = with a=20 forked tail. Captain Cook's track in 1773 was near this spot, but he did = not see=20 the islands: he saw seals and penguins hereabouts, but considered New = Zealand to=20 be the nearest land. I have named them after the ship the Bounty = Isles.

Sunday 21.

This day we saw a seal, some rock-weed, and a great many albatrosses. = I tried=20 for soundings but found no bottom at 230 fathoms depth. Our latitude 47 = degrees=20 32 minutes south, longitude 182 degrees 36 minutes east.

October. Thursday 2.

Were in 40 degrees 27 minutes south latitude and 214 degrees 4 = minutes east=20 longitude. It being calm, and a number of small blubbers about the ship, = I took=20 up some in a bucket, but I saw no difference between them and the common = blubbers in the West Indies. We frequently in the night-time observed = the sea to=20 be covered with luminous spots caused by prodigious quantities of small = blubbers=20 that, from the strings which extend from them, emit a light like the = blaze of a=20 candle, while the body continues perfectly dark.

Friday 3.

The 3rd in the morning we saw a seal. Captain Cook has remarked = seeing=20 seaweed when nearly in the same place. Our latitude 40 degrees 21 = minutes south,=20 longitude 215 degrees east. Variation of the compass 7 degrees 45 = minutes east.=20 Being now well to the eastward of the Society Islands I steered more to = the=20 northward.

We continued to have the southern oceanic birds accompany us and a = few=20 whales. The people caught albatrosses and fattened them in the same = manner which=20 they had done when off Cape Horn. Some of these measured near eight feet = between=20 the tips of the wings when spread.

Thursday 9.

On Thursday the 9th we had the misfortune to lose one of our seamen, = James=20 Valentine, who died in the night of an asthmatic complaint. This poor = man had=20 been one of the most robust people on board until our arrival at = Adventure Bay,=20 where he first complained of some slight indisposition for which he was = bled,=20 and got better. Some time afterwards the arm in which he had been bled = became=20 painful and inflamed: the inflammation increased, with a hollow cough, = and=20 extreme difficulty of breathing, to his death.

Monday 13.

The 13th in the afternoon we saw two land birds like what are called=20 sand-larks. Our latitude at this time was 28 degrees 3 minutes south and = longitude 223 degrees 26 minutes east.

Tuesday 14.

The next morning we saw a tropic bird and some fish. The winds were = light and=20 variable with calms from this time to the 19th, when a breeze sprang up = from the=20 north-east, which gradually came round to the eastward and proved to be = the=20 tradewind. Our latitude on the 19th at noon was 24 degrees 13 minutes = south,=20 longitude 222 degrees 17 minutes east. Variation of the compass 5 = degrees 19=20 minutes east.

Saturday 25.

On the 25th at half-past seven in the morning we saw the Island = Maitea,=20 called Osnaburg by Captain Wallis, who first discovered it. At noon it = bore=20 south-west by west one-quarter west, six miles distant. Our latitude 17 = degrees=20 50 minutes south, longitude 212 degrees 24 minutes east. Variation five = degrees=20 east. As Captain Wallis and Captain Cook had both passed near the south = side, I=20 ran along the north side, which is remarkably steep. The island is high = and=20 round and not more than three miles in its greatest extent. The south = side,=20 where the declivity from the hill is more gradual, is the chief place of = residence of the natives; but the north side, from the very summit down = to the=20 sea, is so steep that it can afford no support to the inhabitants. We = steered=20 pretty close in to the northward of the east end, where we saw but few=20 habitations: a very neat house on a small eminence, delightfully = situated in a=20 grove of coconut-trees, particularly attracted our notice. About twenty = of the=20 natives followed us along shore, waving and showing large pieces of = cloth; but=20 the surf on the shore was too high to think of having any communication = with=20 them. I observed a great number of coconut-trees but did not see one=20 plantain-tree. There were other trees but of what kind we could not = distinguish:=20 near the east end are two remarkable rocks, and a reef runs off to the = eastward=20 about half a league.

The latitude of Maitea is 17 degrees 53 minutes south; and by our = timekeeper=20 its longitude is 1 degree 24 minutes east from Point Venus. Variation of = the=20 compass 5 degrees 36 minutes east.

We continued our course to the westward, and at six in the evening = saw=20 Otaheite bearing west three-quarters south; the island Maitea, then in = sight,=20 bearing east half south, eight leagues distant. As there was great = probability=20 that we should remain a considerable time at Otaheite, it could not be = expected=20 that the intercourse of my people with the natives should be of a very = reserved=20 nature: I therefore ordered that every person should be examined by the = surgeon,=20 and had the satisfaction to learn from his report that they were all = perfectly=20 free from any venereal complaint.

Sunday 26.

On the 26th at four o'clock in the morning, having run twenty-five = leagues=20 from Maitea, we brought to till daylight, when we saw Point Venus = bearing=20 south-west by west, distant about four leagues. As we drew near a great = number=20 of canoes came off to us. Their first enquiries were if we were tyos, = which=20 signifies friends; and whether we came from Pretanie (their = pronunciation of=20 Britain) or from Lima: they were no sooner satisfied in this than they = crowded=20 on board in vast numbers, notwithstanding our endeavours to prevent it, = as we=20 were working the ship in; and in less than ten minutes the deck was so = full that=20 I could scarce find my own people. At nine in the forenoon we were = obliged to=20 anchor in the outer part of Matavai Bay, in thirteen fathoms, being = prevented by=20 light variable winds from placing the ship in a proper berth. In this = station=20 the west part of One-tree hill bore south by east half east one mile=20 distant.

This passage of fifty-two days from Van Diemen's Land may be rated as = moderate sailing. We passed New Zealand with the spring equinox and the = winds,=20 though strong, were at no time violent. To the southward of 40 degrees 0 = minutes=20 south they were variable; between the latitudes of 40 and 33 degrees = south the=20 wind kept in the north-west quarter; afterwards till we got into the = trade the=20 winds were variable, mostly from the eastward, but light and inclinable = to=20 calms. The ship was 3 degrees 22 minutes in longitude to the eastward of = the=20 dead reckoning, which the timekeeper almost invariably proved to be = owing to a=20 current giving us more easting than the log. Our track was as distant = from any=20 course of former ships as I could conveniently make it and, though we = made no=20 new discoveries, except the small cluster of islands near New Zealand, = yet in=20 other parts of the track, as has been noticed, we met with signs of = being in the=20 neighbourhood of land.

It may not be unworthy of remark that the whole distance which the = ship had=20 run by the log, in direct and contrary courses, from leaving England to = our=20 anchoring at Otaheite, was twenty-seven thousand and eighty-six miles = which, on=20 an average, is at the rate of a hundred and eight miles each twenty-four = hours.

CHAPTER 6.

Account of an English Ship lately sailed from=20 Otaheite.
Death of Omai.
Captain Cook's Picture sent on = board.
Otoo=20 visits the Ship.
His Visit returned.
Natives well disposed = towards=20 us.
Account of the Cattle left by Captain Cook.
Breadfruit = plants=20 promised.
Visit to the Earee Rahie.
Presents made to the=20 Arreoys.

1788. October. Sunday 26.

The ship being anchored, our number of visitors continued to = increase; but as=20 yet we saw no person that we could recollect to have been of much = consequence.=20 Some inferior chiefs made me presents of a few hogs and I made them = presents in=20 return. We were supplied with coconuts in great abundance but breadfruit = was=20 scarce.

Many enquiries were made after Captain Cook, Sir Joseph Banks, and = many of=20 their former friends. They said a ship had been here from which they had = learnt=20 that Captain Cook was dead; but the circumstances of his death they did = not=20 appear to be acquainted with; and I had given particular directions to = my=20 officers and ship's company that they should not be mentioned. The ship = spoken=20 of, they informed me, stayed at Otaheite one month and had been gone = four=20 months, by some of their accounts; according to others only three = months. The=20 captain they called Tonah. I understood likewise from them that = Lieutenant Watts=20 was in the ship who, having been here in the Resolution with Captain = Cook, was=20 well known to them. One of my first enquiries, as will naturally be = imagined,=20 was after our friend Omai; and it was a sensible mortification and=20 disappointment to me to hear that not only Omai, but both the New = Zealand boys=20 who had been left with him, were dead. Everyone agreed in their = information that=20 they died a natural death. Otoo, who was the chief of Matavai when = Captain Cook=20 was here the last time, was absent at another part of the island; they = told me=20 messengers were sent to inform him of our arrival, and that he was = expected to=20 return soon. There appeared among the natives in general great goodwill = towards=20 us, and they seemed to be much rejoiced at our arrival. This whole day = we=20 experienced no instance of dishonesty. We were so much crowded that I = could not=20 undertake to remove to a more proper station without danger of = disobliging our=20 visitors by desiring them to leave the ship: this business was therefore = deferred till the next morning.

Monday 27.

Early in the morning, before the natives began to flock off to us, we = weighed=20 anchor to work farther into the bay, and moored at about a quarter of a = mile=20 distance from the shore; Point Venus bearing north 16 degrees east; the = west=20 part of One-tree hill south-west by south; and the point of the reef = north 37=20 degrees west; the ship lying in seven fathoms water.

Several chiefs now came on board and expressed great pleasure at = seeing me.=20 Among these were Otow, the father of Otoo, and Oreepyah, his brother; = also=20 another chief of Matavai called Poeeno: and to these men I made = presents. Two=20 messengers likewise arrived from Otoo to acquaint me of his being on his = way to=20 the ship; each of whom brought me as a present from Otoo a small pig and = a young=20 plantain-tree as a token of friendship. The ship was now plentifully = supplied=20 with provisions; every person having as much as he could consume.

As soon as the ship was secured I went on shore with the chief = Poeeno, and=20 accompanied by a multitude of the natives. He conducted me to the place = where we=20 had fixed our tents in 1777 and desired that I would now appropriate the = spot to=20 the same use. We then went across the beach and through a walk = delightfully=20 shaded with breadfruit trees to his own house. Here we found two women = at work=20 staining a piece of cloth red. These I found were his wife and her = sister. They=20 desired me to sit down on a mat which was spread for the purpose, and = with great=20 kindness offered me refreshments. I received the congratulations of = several=20 strangers who came to us and behaved with great decorum and attention. = The=20 people however thronged about the house in such numbers that I was much=20 incommoded by the heat, which being observed they immediately drew back. = Among=20 the crowd I saw a man who had lost his arm just above the elbow; the = stump was=20 well covered and the cure seemed as perfect as could be expected from = the=20 greatest professional skill.

I made enquiries about the cattle that had been left here by Captain = Cook,=20 but the accounts I received were very unfavourable and so various that = for the=20 present I shall forebear speaking of them. After staying about an hour I = got up=20 to take leave, when the women in a very obliging manner came to me with = a mat=20 and a piece of their finest cloth, which they put on me after the = Otaheite=20 fashion. When I was thus dressed they each of them took one of my hands, = and=20 accompanied me to the waterside, and at parting promised that they would = soon=20 return my visit.

In this walk I had the satisfaction to see that the island had = received some=20 benefit from our former visits. Two shaddocks were brought to me, a = fruit which=20 they had not, till we introduced it. And among the articles which they = brought=20 off to the ship and offered for sale were capsicums, pumpkins, and two = young=20 goats.

On my return to the ship I found that a small disturbance had been = occasioned=20 by one of the natives making an attempt to steal a tin pot; which, on = being=20 known to Oreepyah, he flew into a violent rage, and it was with some = difficulty=20 that the thief escaped with his life. He drove all his countrymen out of = the=20 ship; and when he saw me he desired if at any time I found a thief that = I would=20 order him to be tied up and punished with a severe flogging.

This forenoon a man came on board with Captain Cook's picture which = had been=20 drawn by Mr. Webber in 1777 and left with Otoo. It was brought to me to = be=20 repaired. The frame was broken but the picture no way damaged except a = little in=20 the background. They called it Toote (which has always been their manner = of=20 pronouncing Captain Cook's name) Earee no Otaheite, chief of Otaheite. = They said=20 Toote had desired Otoo, whenever any English ship came, to show the = picture, and=20 it would be acknowledged as a token of friendship. The youngest brother = of Otoo,=20 named Whydooah, visited me this afternoon: he appeared stupefied with = drinking=20 ava. At sunset all our male visitors left the ship.

Tuesday 28.

The next morning early I received a message from Otoo to inform me of = his=20 arrival and requesting that I would send a boat for him; which I = immediately did=20 with an officer (Mr. Christian) to conduct him on board. He came with = numerous=20 attendants and expressed much satisfaction at our meeting. After = introducing his=20 wife to me we joined noses, the customary manner of saluting, and to = perpetuate=20 our friendship he desired we should exchange names. I was surprised to = find that=20 instead of Otoo, the name by which he formerly went, he was now called = Tinah.=20 The name of Otoo, with the title of Earee Rahie, I was informed had = devolved to=20 his eldest son who was yet a minor, as is the custom of the country. The = name of=20 Tinah's wife was Iddeah: with her was a woman dressed with a large = quantity of=20 cloth in the form of a hoop, which was taken off and presented to me = with a=20 large hog and some breadfruit. I then took my visitors into the cabin = and after=20 a short time produced my presents in return. The present I made to Tinah = (by=20 which name I shall hereafter call him) consisted of hatchets, small = adzes,=20 files, gimblets, saws, looking-glasses, red feathers, and two shirts. To = Iddeah=20 I gave earrings, necklaces, and beads; but she expressed a desire also = for iron,=20 and therefore I made the same assortment for her as I had for the = husband. Much=20 conversation took place among them on the value of the different = articles and=20 they appeared extremely satisfied, so that they determined to spend the = day with=20 me and requested I would show them all over the ship, and particularly = the cabin=20 where I slept. This though I was not fond of doing I indulged them in; = and the=20 consequence was as I had apprehended that they took a fancy to so many = things=20 that they got from me nearly as much more as I had before given them. = Afterwards=20 Tinah desired me to fire some of the great guns: this I likewise = complied with=20 and, as the shot fell into the sea at a great distance, all the natives=20 expressed their surprise by loud shouts and acclamations.

I had a large company at dinner; for besides Tinah and his wife there = was=20 Otow, the father of Tinah, Oreepyah, and Whydooah, two of his brothers, = Poeeno,=20 and several other chiefs. Tinah is a very large man, much above the = common=20 stature, being not less than six feet four inches in height and = proportionably=20 stout: his age about thirty-five. His wife (Iddeah) I judged to be about = twenty-four years of age: she is likewise much above the common size of = the=20 women at Otaheite and has a very animated and intelligent countenance. = Whydooah,=20 the younger brother of Tinah, was highly spoken of as a warrior but had = the=20 character of being the greatest drunkard in the country; and indeed to = judge=20 from the withered appearance of his skin he must have used the = pernicious drink=20 called ava to great excess. Tinah was fed by one of his attendants who = sat by=20 him for that purpose, this being a particular custom among some of the = superior=20 chiefs; and I must do him the justice to say he kept his attendant = constantly=20 employed: there was indeed little reason to complain of want of appetite = in any=20 of my guests. As the women are not allowed to eat in presence of the men = Iddeah=20 dined with some of her companions about an hour afterwards in private, = except=20 that her husband Tinah favoured them with his company and seemed to have = entirely forgotten that he had already dined.

Provisions were brought off to the ship in the greatest plenty and, = to=20 prevent as much as possible anything which might occasion disputes, I = desired=20 Mr. Peckover, the gunner, to undertake the management of our traffic = with the=20 natives. Some of the hogs brought today weighed 200 pounds and we = purchased=20 several for salting. Goats were likewise brought off for sale, and I = bought a=20 she-goat and kid for less than would have purchased a small hog. Our = friends=20 here expressed much disappointment that there was no portrait-painter on = board;=20 Tinah in particular, who wished to have had pictures of his father and=20 family.

An intimacy between the natives and our people was already so general = that=20 there was scarce a man in the ship who had not his tyo or friend. Tinah=20 continued with me the whole afternoon, in the course of which he ate = four times=20 of roast pork besides his dinner. When he left the ship he requested I = would=20 keep for him all the presents I had given to him as he had not at = Matavai a=20 place sufficiently safe to secure them from being stolen; I therefore = showed him=20 a locker in my cabin for his use and gave him a key to it. This is = perhaps not=20 so much a proof of his want of power as of the estimation in which they = hold=20 European commodities and which makes more than the common means of = security=20 requisite to prevent theft.

I had sent Nelson and his assistant to look for plants, and it was no = small=20 pleasure to me to find by their report that according to appearances the = object=20 of my mission would probably be accomplished with ease. I had given = directions=20 to everyone on board not to make known to the islanders the purpose of = our=20 coming lest it might enhance the value of the breadfruit plants, or = occasion=20 other difficulties. Perhaps so much caution was not necessary but at all = events=20 I wished to reserve to myself the time and manner of communication. = Nelson met=20 with two fine shaddock-trees which he had planted in 1777: they were = full of=20 fruit but not ripe.

Wednesday 29.

In the morning I returned Tinah's visit for I found he expected it. = He was in=20 a small shed about a quarter of a mile to the eastward of Matavai point = with his=20 wife and three children, not their own but who they said were relations. = In my=20 walk I had picked up a numerous attendance for everyone I met followed = me; so=20 that I had collected such a crowd that the heat was scarce bearable, = everyone=20 endeavouring to get a look to satisfy their curiosity: they however = carefully=20 avoided pressing against me, and welcomed me with cheerful countenances = and=20 great good nature.

I made Tinah understand that my visit was particularly to him, and = gave him a=20 second present, equal to the first, which he received with great = pleasure; and=20 to the people of consequence that were about him I also presented some = article=20 or other. There were great numbers of children and, as I took notice of = the=20 little ones that were in arms and gave them beads, both small and great, = but=20 with much drollery and good humour, endeavoured to benefit by the = occasion. Boys=20 of ten and twelve years old were caught up in arms and brought to me, = which=20 created much laughter; so that in a short time I got rid of all I had = brought on=20 shore.

In my return I called on Poeeno, and an elderly chief, a relation of = his,=20 called Moannah, the principal men of this district and with whom I = judged it my=20 interest to be on good terms. I gave them several valuable articles and, = as the=20 situation here was eligible for a garden, I planted melon, cucumber, and = salad-seeds. I told them many other things should be sown for their use; = and=20 they appeared much pleased when they understood I intended to plant such = things=20 as would grow to be trees and produce fruit. I saw large patches of = tobacco=20 growing without culture and many pumpkin vines. The breadfruit trees and = coconut=20 trees at this time were full of fruit.

I went on board to dinner and Moannah accompanied me. In the = afternoon I=20 returned to Poeeno's with some additional seeds to improve the little = garden I=20 had begun to make in the forenoon. While I was giving directions I = received a=20 message from Tinah inviting me to come to him at his brother Oreepyah's = house,=20 which was near the beach. At this place I found a great number of people = collected who, on my appearance, immediately made way for me to sit down = by=20 Tinah. The crowd being ordered to draw back, a piece of cloth about two = yards=20 wide and forty-one yards in length was spread on the ground; and another = piece=20 of cloth was brought by Oreepyah, which he put over my shoulders and = round my=20 waist in the manner the chiefs are clothed. Two large hogs, weighing = each above=20 two hundred pounds, and a quantity of baked breadfruit and coconuts were = then=20 laid before me as a present, and I was desired to walk from one end of = the cloth=20 spread on the ground to the other, in the course of which Tyo and Ehoah* = were=20 repeated with loud acclamations. This ceremony being ended Tinah desired = I would=20 send the things on board, which completely loaded the boat; we therefore = waited=20 till she came back and then I took them on board with me; for I knew = they=20 expected some return. The present which I made on this occasion was = equal to any=20 that I had made before; but I discovered that Tinah was not the sole = proprietor=20 of what he had given to me for the present I gave was divided among = those who, I=20 guessed, had contributed to support his dignity; among whom were = Moannah,=20 Poeenah, and Oreepyah; Tinah however kept the greatest part of what I = had given=20 and everyone seemed satisfied with the proportion he allotted them.

(*Footnote. Tyo and Ehoah are words of the same = signification,=20 i.e. friend.)

The Otaheite breed of hogs seems to be supplanted by the European. = Originally=20 they were of the China sort, short and very thick-necked; but the = superior size=20 of the European have made them encourage our breed.

Thursday 30.

At break of day Tinah and his wife came again to the ship and, as = their=20 attendants were numerous, I provided a breakfast for them of broiled and = roasted=20 pork, which they preferred to tea. Our arrival being known all over the = island,=20 we had this day a great number of strangers on board who came from the = most=20 remote parts, and in the forenoon some hooks and thimbles were cut out = from the=20 blocks. This induced me to order all the natives out of the ship except = the=20 chiefs and their attendants. In executing these orders a daring fellow = attacked=20 the sentinel but escaped among the crowd. Everyone knew the consequence = of=20 offending the sentinel and were exceedingly alarmed at the appearance of = anger I=20 thought necessary to assume.

Among those who visited us today were two chiefs of great = consequence,=20 Marremarre and his son Poohaitaiah Otee, Earees of the districts of = Itteeah and=20 Attahooroo. Otee was fed at dinner in the same manner as Tinah. It was = evident=20 that the attention which I showed to these chiefs seemed to give = uneasiness to=20 Tinah. At sunset my visitors took leave and were carried on shore by one = of the=20 ship's boats, which has always been regarded as a mark of distinction, = and on=20 that account preferred by them to going in their own canoes. At their = request a=20 race was rowed between our five-oared cutter and one of their double = canoes with=20 four paddles. Great exertions were used on both sides but the cutter = first=20 reached the shore. In their return to the ship Oreepyah stopped them = till a=20 large piece of cloth that he had sent for was brought; which he tied to = the=20 boat-hook and desired should be carried off as a trophy of their = victory.

Friday 31.

The next morning at sunrise Moannah came on board with a message from = Tinah=20 to acquaint me that he was mattow (afraid to see me) till he had = recovered some=20 things that had been stolen from the ship and which he had sent after. I = knew=20 there was something wrong, as no canoes came off to us and, on looking = about, we=20 found the buoy of the best bower anchor had been taken away, I imagine = for the=20 sake of some iron hoops that were on it. That this might not create any = coolness=20 I sent a boat to Tinah to invite him and his friends to come on board; = which=20 they immediately did and were no longer under any apprehensions. I had = made an=20 appointment with Oreepyah for him to go with me to Oparre this morning; = but the=20 accident just mentioned caused him to break his engagement, he having = gone, I=20 was informed, in search of what had been stolen.

Oparre is the district next to the westward of Matavai. One of my = reasons for=20 going to Oparre was to see if Nelson would be able to procure plants = there; but=20 I gave the credit of my visit to young Otoo, the son of Tinah, who was = the Earee=20 Rahie, and lived with the rest of Tinah's children at Oparre. I prepared = a=20 magnificent present for this youth, who was represented to me as the = person of=20 the greatest consequence, or rather of the highest rank, in the island. = At noon=20 I left the ship, accompanied by Tinah, his wife Iddeah, and Poeeno. = Moannah was=20 to have been of the party but he insisted on remaining in the ship to = prevent=20 his countrymen from attempting to steal anything.

After half an hour's sailing we arrived at Oparre. During this time = Tinah=20 gave me a more circumstantial account of the cattle and sheep that had = been left=20 with him: he related that, after five years from the time of Captain = Cook's=20 departure (counting 63 moons) the people of the Island Eimeo joined with = those=20 of Attahooroo, a district of Otaheite, and made a descent on Oparre: = that after=20 some resistance by which many men were killed Tinah and his people fled = to the=20 mountains, leaving all their property to the mercy of the victorious = party who=20 destroyed almost everything which they found not convenient to take away = with=20 them. Some of the cattle were killed and eaten but the greater part were = taken=20 to Eimeo. The cows he said had produced eight calves and the ewes ten = young=20 ones. The ducks, among which they classed the geese, had greatly = increased; but=20 the turkeys and peacocks, whatever was the cause, had not bred. It = seemed to=20 give Tinah great pleasure to observe how much I was concerned for the=20 destruction of so many useful animals; but the cause of his = satisfaction, I=20 found, did not proceed from any expectation that I should replace them, = but from=20 the belief that I would take vengeance on the people who had deprived = him of=20 them; for with respect to the loss of the cattle he appeared so = unconcerned and=20 indifferent that I was very angry with him. There is however sufficient = excuse=20 for his resentment against the people of Eimeo; for the large extensive = houses=20 which we had seen in this part of Otaheite in the year 1777 were all = destroyed,=20 and at present they had no other habitations than light sheds which = might be=20 taken by the four corners and removed by four men: and of the many large = canoes=20 which they then had not more than three remained. Tinah, understanding = from my=20 conversation that I intended visiting some of the other islands in this=20 neighbourhood, very earnestly desired I would not think of leaving = Matavai.=20 "Here," said he, "you shall be supplied plentifully with everything you = want.=20 All here are your friends and friends of King George: if you go to the = other=20 islands you will have everything stolen from you." I replied that, on = account of=20 their goodwill and from a desire to serve him and his country, King = George had=20 sent out those valuable presents to him; "and will not you, Tinah, send=20 something to King George in return?" "Yes," he said, "I will send him = anything I=20 have;" and then began to enumerate the different articles in his power, = among=20 which he mentioned the breadfruit. This was the exact point to which I = wished to=20 bring the conversation and, seizing an opportunity which had every = appearance of=20 being undesigned and accidental, I told him the breadfruit trees were = what King=20 George would like; upon which he promised me a great many should be put = on=20 board, and seemed much delighted to find it so easily in his power to = send=20 anything that would be well received by King George.

On landing at Oparre an immense crowd of natives as usual immediately = thronged about us. I enquired for Oreepyah, whom I expected to have met = me here,=20 but he was not yet returned from his search after the thieves; we = therefore went=20 under a shed of his to wait for him, and in about a quarter of an hour = he joined=20 us, bringing with him an iron scraper and one of the hoops of the buoy. = I=20 thanked him for the trouble which he had taken, and assured him that I = was=20 perfectly satisfied, for he still seemed apprehensive of my = displeasure.

We took leave for a short time of Oreepyah and I proceeded with Tinah = to make=20 my visit to the young Otoo, the Earee Rahie. When we had walked about = five=20 minutes Tinah stopped and informed me that no person could be permitted = to see=20 his son, who was covered above the shoulders. He then took off his upper = garments and requested I would do the same. I replied that I had no = objection to=20 go as I would to my own king, who was the greatest in all the world and, = pulling=20 off my hat, he threw a piece of cloth round my shoulders and we went on. = About a=20 quarter of a mile farther towards the hills, through a delightful shade = of=20 breadfruit trees, we stopped at the side of a small serpentine river: = here I was=20 in view of a house on the other side at about fifty yards distance. From = this=20 house the young king was brought out on a man's shoulders, clothed in a = piece of=20 fine white cloth, and I was desired by Tinah to salute him by the name = of Too=20 Earee Rahie. The present which I had prepared was divided into three = parts, and=20 two other children made their appearance in the same manner. The first = present I=20 gave to a messenger who attended for that purpose; and I was instructed = by Tinah=20 to say that it was for the Earee Rahie; that I was his friend; that I = hated=20 thieves; and that I came from Britannia. The second present was sent in = the same=20 manner, with a similar message, to one of the other children and = likewise the=20 third.

As I could not see the Earee Rahie distinctly I desired to be = permitted to go=20 over the river to him; but this, it seems, could not be complied with: = therefore=20 after seeing the presents delivered I returned with Tinah towards = Oreepyah's=20 house. I was informed that Tinah had four children by his wife Iddeah. = Otoo, or=20 Too, the Earee Rahie, appeared to be about six years old: the second is = a girl=20 named Terrenah Oroah: the third a boy, Terreetappanooai; and a fourth, = an infant=20 girl, whom I did not see, named Tahamydooah.

When we came to the place where we had first stopped Tinah took the = cloth=20 from my shoulders and desired me to put my hat on; I expressed a desire = to see=20 more of the place and he took me back by a different way. On passing a = trunk of=20 a tree, rudely carved, I was desired again to pull my hat off, and all = uncovered=20 their shoulders. This I discovered to be nothing more than the boundary = of the=20 king's land; on which whoever set their feet uncovered themselves out of = respect.

We stopped at a house belonging to Tinah where I was treated with a = concert=20 of one drum and three flutes with singing by four men. I made some = presents to=20 the performers and we removed to Oreepyah's house where, after paying my = compliments to him, which I found was expected, Tinah made me a present = of a=20 large hog and some coconuts. He then introduced an uncle of his called=20 Mowworoah, a very old man much tattooed and almost blind. To this chief = I made a=20 present and soon after I embarked with Tinah, Oreepyah, their wives, and = Poeeno.=20 A vast number of people were collected on the beach to see us depart and = as soon=20 as the boat had put off Tinah desired me to fire my pocket pistol, the = poopooe=20 ete ete, as he called it: the report seemed to electrify the whole crowd = but,=20 finding no harm done, they gave great shouts of approbation.

Nelson, who accompanied me in this expedition, had but little = opportunity to=20 search after plants, the natives having crowded so much about him: he = saw enough=20 however to assure him that they were to be procured here as plentifully = as at=20 Matavai.

In our passage to the ship, which we rowed in one hour, nothing but = Britannie=20 was enquired after and of the number of ships and guns. When I told them = we had=20 ships of 100 guns they could not believe it till I drew one on paper: = they then=20 asked me if it was not as big as Tarrah, which is a high projecting = headland=20 halfway between Matavai and Oparre, called by us One-tree Hill. Tinah = much=20 wished that one of these large ships should be sent to Otaheite and that = myself=20 should come in her, and bring him a number of things that he wanted; = among which=20 he particularly desired beds and high-backed elbow chairs might not be=20 forgotten: a request perfectly according with the indolent character of=20 Tinah.

November. Saturday 1.

As we had occasion to fix a tent on Point Venus this morning we moved = the=20 ship nearer to it and moored again in six fathoms, the point bearing=20 north-north-east.

Tinah and several other chiefs dined on board with me. After dinner I = went on=20 shore with Tinah and made a visit to his father Otow. I likewise went to = the=20 garden which I had made near Poeeno's house and found everything had = been taken=20 care of. After this I was invited to an entertainment called Heiva, = which Tinah=20 had ordered and which consisted of singing and dancing by three men and = a young=20 girl. When this performance was finished I returned to the ship.

Sunday 2.

At daylight I sent Mr. Christian with a party to erect our tent and = soon=20 after followed myself with Tinah, Moannah, and Poeeno. With their = consent I=20 fixed a boundary, within which the natives were not to enter without = leave and=20 the chiefs cautioned them against it.

The principal use of the tents on shore was for a lodgment for the = plants;=20 and I had now, instead of appearing to receive a favour, brought the = chiefs to=20 believe that I was doing them a kindness in carrying the plants as a = present=20 from them to the Earee Rahie no Britanee. The party at the tent = consisted of=20 nine persons, including Nelson and his assistant.

Tinah dined with me on board and was today my only visitor: = nevertheless the=20 ceremony of being fed he so scrupulously observed that, even after all = the=20 attendants were sent away and we were left by ourselves, I was obliged = to lift=20 the wine to his mouth. The wives of the Earees are sometimes subject to = this=20 restriction after the birth of a child but are released after a certain = time on=20 performing a ceremony called Oammo.

After dinner Tinah invited me to accompany him with a present of = provisions=20 to a party of the Arreoys, a society described in the accounts of the = former=20 voyages: in this ceremony he made me the principal person. Our way to = the place=20 where the offering was to be made was by the side of a river along the = banks of=20 which I had always walked before this time; but on the present occasion = a canoe=20 was provided for me and dragged by eight men. On arriving at the = landing-place I=20 saw a large quantity of breadfruit with some hogs ready dressed and a = quantity=20 of cloth. At about forty yards distant sat a man who, I was informed, = was a=20 principal Arreoy. A lane being made by the crowd he was addressed by one = of=20 Tinah's people, standing on the canoe, in a speech composed of short = sentences=20 which lasted about a quarter of an hour. During this a piece of cloth = was=20 produced, one end of which I was desired to hold, and five men, one with = a=20 sucking pig and the others having each a basket of breadfruit, prepared = to=20 follow me. In this order we advanced to the Arreoy and laid the whole = down=20 before him. I then spoke several sentences dictated to me by Tinah, the = meaning=20 of which I did not understand and, my pronunciation not being very = exact, caused=20 a great deal of mirth. This speech being finished I was shown another = Arreoy,=20 who had come from Ulietea, and to him likewise I was required to deliver = an=20 oration. Tinah understanding from me that I had children in my own = country he=20 desired me to make one more offering on their account. There still = remained=20 three baskets of breadfruit, a small pig, and another piece of cloth: = with=20 these, assisted as before, I made the offering in favour of my children = to the=20 man whom I had first addressed. He made no reply to all my fine speeches = but sat=20 with great gravity and received everything as a matter of right and not = of=20 courtesy.

All that I could make out of this strange ceremony was that the = Arreoys are=20 highly respected and that the society is chiefly composed of men = distinguished=20 by their valour or some other merit, and that great trust and confidence = is=20 reposed in them; but I could not comprehend what this had to do with my = children=20 or why it should be imagined that an offering made on their account to a = society=20 of men who destroy all their children should be propitious. I learnt = from Tinah,=20 in talking about his children, that his first-born child was killed as = soon as=20 it came into the world, he being then an Arreoy; but before his second = child was=20 born he quitted the society. The Arreoys are allowed great latitude in = their=20 amours except in times of danger. Then as they are almost all fighting = men (tata=20 toa) they are restricted that they may not weaken or enervate = themselves.

These ceremonies being ended I returned to the ship.

Such of the natives as I conversed with about the institution of so=20 extraordinary a society as the Arreoy asserted that it was necessary to = prevent=20 an overpopulation. Worrow worrow no te mydidde, worrow worrow te tata. = We have=20 too many children and too many men was their constant excuse. Yet it = does not=20 appear that they are apprehensive of too great an increase of the lower = class of=20 people, none of them being ever admitted into the Arreoy society. The = most=20 remarkable instance related to me of the barbarity of this institution = was of=20 Teppahoo, the Earee of the district of Tettaha, and his wife, = Tetteehowdeeah,=20 who is sister to Otow and considered as a person of the first = consequence. I was=20 told that they have had eight children, every one of which was destroyed = as soon=20 as born. That any human beings were ever so devoid of natural affection = as not=20 to wish to preserve alive one of so many children is not credible. It is = more=20 reasonable to conclude that the death of these infants was not an act of = choice=20 in the parents; but that they were sacrificed in compliance with some = barbarous=20 superstition with which we are unacquainted. What strengthens this = conjecture is=20 that they have adopted a nephew as their heir, of whom they are = excessively=20 fond.

In countries so limited as the islands in the South Seas, the natives = of=20 which, before they were discovered by European navigators, probably had = not an=20 idea of the existence of other lands, it is not unnatural that an = increasing=20 population should occasion apprehensions of universal distress. Orders = of=20 celibacy which have proved so prejudicial in other countries might = perhaps in=20 this have been beneficial; so far at least as to have answered their = purpose by=20 means not criminal. The number of inhabitants at Otaheite have been = estimated at=20 above one hundred thousand. The island however is not cultivated to the = greatest=20 advantage: yet were they continually to improve in husbandry their = improvement=20 could not for a length of time keep pace with an unlimited = population.

An idea here presents itself which, however fanciful it may appear at = first=20 sight, seems to merit some attention: While we see among these islands = so great=20 a waste of the human species that numbers are born only to die, and at = the same=20 time a large continent so near to them as New Holland, in which there is = so=20 great a waste of land uncultivated and almost destitute of inhabitants, = it=20 naturally occurs how greatly the two countries might be made to benefit = each=20 other, and gives occasion to regret that the islanders are not = instructed in the=20 means of emigrating to New Holland, which seems as if designed by nature = to=20 serve as an asylum for the superflux of inhabitants in the islands. Such = a plan=20 of emigration, if rendered practicable to them, might not only be the = means of=20 abolishing the horrid custom of destroying children as it would remove = the plea=20 of necessity but might lead to other important purposes. A great = continent would=20 be converted from a desert to a populous country; a number of our=20 fellow-creatures would be saved; the inhabitants of the islands would = become=20 more civilised; and it is not improbable but that our colonies in New = Holland=20 would derive so much benefit as to more than repay any trouble of = expense that=20 might be incurred in endeavouring to promote so humane a plan.

The latter however is a remote consideration for the intertropical = parts of=20 New Holland are those most suited to the habits and manner of living of = the=20 islanders; and likewise the soil and climate are the best adapted to = their modes=20 of agriculture. Man placed by his Creator in the warm climates perhaps = would=20 never emigrate into the colder unless under the tyrannous influence of=20 necessity; and ages might elapse before the new inhabitants would spread = to our=20 settlers though they are but barely within the limits of frost, that = great cause=20 of nine-tenths of the necessities of Europeans. Nevertheless besides = forwarding=20 the purposes of humanity and general convenience in bringing a people = without=20 land to a land without people the benefit of a mutual intercourse with a = neighbouring and friendly colony would in itself be no inconsiderable=20 advantage.

Among people so free from ostentation as the Otaheiteans, and whose = manners=20 are so simple and natural, the strictness with which the punctilios of = rank are=20 observed is surprising. I know not if any action, however meritorious, = can=20 elevate a man above the class in which he was born unless he were to = acquire=20 sufficient power to confer dignity on himself. If any woman of the = inferior=20 classes has a child by an Earee it is not suffered to live. Perhaps the=20 offspring of Teppahoo and Tetteehowdeeah were destined to satisfy some = cruel=20 adjustment of rank and precedency.

CHAPTER 7.

A theft committed.
Deception of the painted=20 Head.
Conversation with a Priest.
A Wrestling Match.
Reports = of the=20 Natives concerning other Islands.
Some Account of = Omai.

1788. November. Monday 3.

The trade for provisions I directed to be carried on at the tent by = Mr.=20 Peckover the gunner. Moannah likewise resided there as a guard over his=20 countrymen; but though it appeared to be the wish of all the chiefs that = we=20 should remain unmolested it was not possible entirely to prevent them = from=20 pilfering.

My table at dinner was generally crowded. Tinah, Oreepyah, Poeeno, = and=20 Moannah, were my regular guests and I was seldom without some chiefs = from other=20 districts. Almost every individual of any consequence has several names = which=20 makes it frequently perplexing when the same person is spoken of to know = who is=20 meant. Every chief has perhaps a dozen or more names in the course of = thirty=20 years; so that the person who has been spoken of by one visitor will not = perhaps=20 be known to another unless other circumstances lead to a discovery. The = father=20 of Tinah, at this time called Otow, was known in 1769 by the name of=20 Whappai.

I showed Tinah the preparations I was making to take on board the = breadfruit=20 plants which pleased him exceedingly, but he did not forget to remind me = that=20 when the next ship came out he hoped King George would send him large = axes,=20 files, saws, cloth of all kinds, hats, chairs, and bedsteads, with arms, = ammunition, and in short everything he could think of mentioning.

This afternoon the gudgeon of the rudder belonging to the large = cutter was=20 drawn out and stolen without being perceived by the man that was = stationed to=20 take care of her. Several petty thefts having been committed by the = natives,=20 mostly owing to the negligence of our own people and, as these kind of = accidents=20 generally created alarm and had a tendency to interrupt the good terms = on which=20 we were with the chiefs, I thought it would have a good effect to punish = the=20 boat-keeper in their presence, many of them happening to be then on = board; and=20 accordingly I ordered him a dozen lashes. Tinah with several of the = chiefs=20 attended the punishment and interceded very earnestly to get it = mitigated: the=20 women showed great sympathy and that degree of feeling which = characterises the=20 amiable part of their sex.

The natives brought off today two different kinds of roots that grow = like=20 yams: one they call Ettee, which is a sweet root, common also to the = Friendly=20 Islands, and may be eaten as a sweetmeat: the other they call Appay, a = root like=20 the Tyah or Eddie in the West Indies. A fruit called Ayyah, which is the = jambo=20 of Batavia, was likewise brought off to us: they are as large as = middle-sized=20 apples, very juicy and refreshing, and may be eaten in large quantities. = Also=20 some Avees, which are the real Otaheite apple; but they were not yet in = season.=20 These are a delicious high-flavoured fruit and before they are ripe = answer the=20 culinary purposes of our apples.

Tuesday 4.

A chief called Tootaha, who came from the island Ulietea, was = introduced to=20 me today by Tinah as one of his particular friends. I was told that he = was a=20 priest and a person of great knowledge. I desired Tinah to take what he = thought=20 proper as a present for him; and I must do Tinah the justice to say he = was more=20 sparing than I should have been. I likewise received a visit today from = Oedidee,=20 the man who had been at sea with Captain Cook in 1773 and 1774, as = related in=20 the account of that voyage. He still retained some of the English words = which he=20 had learnt in that expedition.

Wednesday 5.

The weather variable with lightning and frequent showers of rain. = Wind=20 east-north-east.

This was the first day of our beginning to take up plants: we had = much=20 pleasure in collecting them for the natives offered their assistance and = perfectly understood the method of taking them up and pruning them.

The crowd of natives was not so great as hitherto it had been: the = curiosity=20 of strangers was satisfied and, as the weather began to be unsettled and = rainy,=20 they had almost all returned to their homes so that only the people of = Matavai=20 and Oparre remained with us, except a few chiefs from other islands: our = supplies however were abundant and what I considered as no small = addition to our=20 comforts, we ceased to be incommoded when on shore by the natives = following us,=20 and could take our walks almost unnoticed. In any house that we wished = to enter=20 we always experienced a kind reception and without officiousness. The=20 Otaheiteans have the most perfect easiness of manners, equally free from = forwardness and formality. When they offer refreshments if they are not = accepted=20 they do not think of offering them the second time; for they have not = the least=20 idea of that ceremonious kind of refusal which expects a second = invitation. In=20 like manner at taking leave we were never troubled with solicitations to = prolong=20 our visit, but went without ceremony except making use of a farewell = expression=20 at parting. Another advantage, seldom found in warm countries, was, in = this part=20 of Otaheite being free from mosquitoes, though at particular times of = the year=20 the inhabitants are pestered with great numbers of flies.

Moannah continued our constant friend at the tent and with Tinah and = all his=20 friends dined with me every day.

The ship's barber had brought with him from London a painted head = such as the=20 hair-dressers have in their shops to show the different fashions of = dressing=20 hair; and it being made with regular features and well-coloured, I = desired him=20 to dress it, which he did with much neatness, and with a stick and a = quantity of=20 cloth he formed a body. It was then reported to the natives that we had = an=20 Englishwoman on board and the quarter-deck was cleared of the crowd that = she=20 might make her appearance. Being handed up the ladder and carried to the = after-part of the deck there was a general shout of "Huaheine no = Brittane myty."=20 Huaheine signifies woman and myty good. Many of them thought it was = living and=20 asked if it was my wife. One old woman ran with presents of cloth and = breadfruit=20 and laid them at her feet; at last they found out the cheat; but = continued all=20 delighted with it, except the old lady who felt herself mortified and = took back=20 her presents for which she was laughed at exceedingly. Tinah and all the = chiefs=20 enjoyed the joke and, after making many enquiries about the British = women, they=20 strictly enjoined me when I came again to bring a ship full of them.

Some very fine sugarcane was brought to me; each of the pieces was = six inches=20 round. I had before told Tinah that our sugar was made of it and he was = very=20 desirous to discover the means; for they were so fond of our loaf sugar = that a=20 present to any chief would have been incomplete without a piece of it. = Another=20 article in great estimation and likewise expected to make part of a = present was=20 scissors, which they made use of to keep their beards in order.

By this time Nelson had, with assistance from the ship, completed a = large=20 garden near the tents in which were sown seeds of different kinds that = we had=20 collected at the Cape of Good Hope. I likewise distributed fruit-stones = and=20 almonds for planting among the chiefs, who I hope will endeavour to make = them=20 succeed and, as they are very fond of sweet-smelling flowers with which = the=20 women delight to ornament themselves, I gave them some rose-seed.

Thursday 6.

We had very variable weather, much rain, and some westerly winds; so = that a=20 considerable swell ran into the bay and a number of spotted white and = black=20 porpoises made their appearance.

I had the mortification to see that our garden-ground had been much = trod=20 over; and what was worse the chiefs appeared but little concerned at it. = To this=20 kind of carelessness and indifference I attribute the miscarriage of = many of the=20 plants left here by Captain Cook. I had now in a flourishing state two = orange=20 plants, some vines, a fig-tree, and two pineapple plants, which I gave = to Poeeno=20 whose residence is a place favourable for their growth.

We got on successfully with our plants, having a hundred potted at = the tent=20 and in a fair way of doing well. The cabin also was completed and ready = to=20 receive them on board.

I have before remarked that my friend Tinah was rather of a selfish=20 disposition and this afternoon he showed a stronger instance of it than = I was=20 witness to at any time before or after. His brother Oreepyah sent on = board to me=20 a present of a large hog and a quantity of breadfruit: but these kind of = presents are much more expensive than purchasing at the market. Soon = after=20 Oreepyah himself came on board. Tinah was with me at the time and = whispered me=20 to tell Oreepyah not to bring any more hogs or fruit and to take those = back=20 which he had sent. This advice as may be supposed did not produce the = effect=20 intended. Oreepyah appears to be a man of great spirit, and is highly = respected=20 by his countrymen. Among other visitors today was one of the men who had = been to=20 Lima in 1776.

Saturday 8.

Our plants had now increased to 252: as they were all kept on shore = at the=20 tent I augmented the guard there, though from the general conduct of the = natives=20 there did not appear the least occasion for so much caution.

While I was at dinner Tinah desired I would permit a man to come down = into=20 the cabin whom he called his Taowah or priest; for I was obliged to keep = a=20 sentinel at the hatchway to prevent being incommoded at my meals with = too much=20 company; a restriction which pleased the chiefs who always asked leave = for any=20 particular person to be admitted of whom they wished me to take notice. = The=20 company of the priest brought on a religious conversation. He said their = great=20 God was called Oro; and that they had many others of less consequence. = He asked=20 me if I had a God? if he had a son? and who was his wife? I told them he = had a=20 son but no wife. Who was his father and mother? was the next question. I = said he=20 never had father or mother; at this they laughed exceedingly. You have a = God=20 then who never had a father or mother and has a child without a wife! = Many other=20 questions were asked which my little knowledge of the language did not = enable me=20 to answer.

The weather was now fine again and a great number of people were come = from=20 other parts of the island. Tinah informed me that there was to be a = heiva and a=20 wrestling-match on shore, and that the performers waited for our = attendance; we=20 therefore set off with several of our friends and, about a quarter of a = mile=20 from the tents, we found a great concourse of people formed into a ring. = As soon=20 as we were seated a dancing heiva began, which was performed by two = girls and=20 four men: this lasted half an hour and consisted of wanton gestures and = motions=20 such as have been described in the account of former voyages. When the = dance=20 ended Tinah ordered a long piece of cloth to be brought; his wife Iddeah = and=20 myself were desired to hold the two first corners and, the remaining = part being=20 supported by many others, we carried it to the performers and gave it = them.=20 Several other chiefs made a like present or payment. The performers were = strollers that travelled about the country as in Europe.

After this the wrestling began and the place soon became a scene of = riot and=20 confusion. A party of the Arreoys also began to exercise a privilege, = which it=20 seems they are allowed, of taking from the women such of their clothes = as they=20 thought worth it; so that some of them were left little better than = naked. One=20 young woman who was attacked opposed them with all her strength and held = fast=20 her cloth, though they almost dragged her along the ground. Observing = that I=20 took notice of her she held out her hand and begged my assistance; and = at my=20 request she escaped being pillaged.

Soon after a ring was again made but the wrestlers were so numerous = within it=20 that it was impossible to restore order. In the challenges they lay one = hand=20 upon their breast and, on the bending of the arm at the elbow, with the = other=20 hand they strike a very smart blow which, as the hand is kept hollow, = creates a=20 sound that may be heard at a considerable distance; and this they do so=20 frequently and with such force that the flesh becomes exceedingly = bruised and,=20 the skin breaking, bleeds considerably. At this time the sound from so = many=20 resembled that of a number of people in a wood felling trees. This is = the=20 general challenge; but when any two combatants agree to a trial they = present=20 their hands forward, joining them only by the extremities of the = fingers. They=20 begin by watching to take an advantage; at length they close, seize each = other=20 by the hair and are most commonly parted before either receives a fall. = Only one=20 couple performed anything like the part of good wrestlers; and as they = were an=20 equal match this conflict lasted longer than any of the others; but they = also=20 were parted.

Iddeah was the general umpire and she managed with so much address as = to=20 prevent any quarrelling, and there was no murmuring at her decisions. As = her=20 person was large she was very conspicuous in the circle. Tinah took no = part in=20 the management. Upon the whole this performance gave me a better opinion = of=20 their strength than of their skill or dexterity.

Tuesday 11.

For some time past Tinah had talked of going to the island of = Tethuroa which=20 lies eight or ten leagues north from Otaheite to fetch his mother; but I = found I=20 had only half understood him; for this morning he enquired when we were = to sail=20 there in the ship: however he seemed to feel no great disappointment at = my not=20 complying with his wish. Tethuroa he informed me is the property of his = family.=20 He likewise spoke to me about an island called Rooopow, the situation of = which=20 he described to be to the eastward of Otaheite four or five days sail, = and that=20 there were large animals upon it with eight legs. The truth of this = account he=20 very strenuously insisted upon and wished me to go thither with him. I = was at a=20 loss to know whether or not Tinah himself gave credit to this whimsical = and=20 fabulous account; for though they have credulity sufficient to believe = anything,=20 however improbable, they are at the same time so much addicted to that = species=20 of wit which we call humbug that it is frequently difficult to discover = whether=20 they are in jest or earnest. Their ideas of geography are very simple: = they=20 believe the world to be a fixed plane of great extent; and that the sun, = moon,=20 and stars are all in motion round it. I have been frequently asked by = them if I=20 have not been as far as the sun and moon; for they think we are such = great=20 travellers that scarce any undertaking is beyond our ability.

Another island called Tappuhoi, situated likewise to the eastward, = was=20 described to me by Tinah, the inhabitants of which were said to be all = warriors,=20 and that the people of Otaheite did not dare to go there. He told me = that very=20 lately a canoe from Tappuhoi was at the island Maitea; that as soon as = they=20 landed they began to fight with the people of Maitea who killed them all = except=20 a young lad and a woman who have since been at Otaheite. I saw the boy = but could=20 get no information from him. It is most probable that this unfortunate = visit of=20 the canoe from Tappuhoi was not designed but occasioned by adverse winds = which=20 forced them so far from their own island, and that the people of Maitea = began=20 the attack, taking advantage of their superior numbers, on account of = some=20 former quarrel.

Thursday 13.

I had a large company to dine with me today. Some of my constant = visitors had=20 observed that we always drank His Majesty's health as soon as the cloth = was=20 removed; but they were by this time become so fond of wine that they = would=20 frequently remind me of the health in the middle of dinner by calling = out King=20 George Earee no Brittannee; and would banter me if the glass was not = filled to=20 the brim. Nothing could exceed the mirth and jollity of these people = when they=20 met on board.

I was assured by Oediddee and several others that the vines planted = at the=20 island Huaheine by Captain Cook had succeeded and bore fruit; and that = some of=20 the other plants, both at Huaheine and at Oaitepeha, a district on the=20 south-east part of Otaheite, had been preserved and were in a thriving = state. I=20 was likewise informed that there was a bull and a cow alive at Otaheite = but on=20 different parts of the island, the former at a place called Itteah, the = latter=20 at the district of Tettaha. All the rest were taken away or destroyed by = the=20 people of Eimeo. As Tettaha was at no great distance I determined to go = thither=20 myself the first opportunity, and make enquiries in hopes that the breed = might=20 still be preserved.

I had much discourse with my guests about Omai: they confirmed to me = that he=20 died about thirty months after Captain Cook left the islands. Soon after = Captain=20 Cook's departure from Huaheine there were some disputes between the = people of=20 that island and those of Ulietea in which also the natives of Bolabola = took a=20 part. Omai, who was become of consequence from the possessing three or = four=20 muskets and some ammunition, was consulted on the occasion. Such was his = opinion=20 and assurances of success that a war was determined on and took place=20 immediately. Victory soon followed through the means of those few arms = and many=20 of the Ulietea and Bolabola men were killed. In this contest their = flints proved=20 bad, or probably the locks of the muskets had got out of order: this = they=20 remedied by a lighted stick, one man presenting the musket and another = with the=20 burnt stick setting fire to the priming; without which contrivance their = arms=20 would have proved useless. This expedition it seems consumed all their=20 ammunition. Peace was soon after established, but I did not understand = that Omai=20 had increased his possessions or his rank. Nevertheless I have reason to = conclude that he was in some degree of favour with his countrymen from = the=20 general good character which they give of him. It appears that he always = remembered England with kindness; for his accounts to his countrymen = have been=20 such as to give them not only a great idea of our power and consequence = but of=20 our friendship and goodwill towards him.

Tyvarooah, the eldest of the New Zealand boys that were left with = him, died a=20 short time after Omai: about Coah, the youngest, I had always doubtful = accounts=20 till I came to Huaheine, where I learnt that he likewise was dead.

CHAPTER 8.

Expedition to Tettaba after a Heifer.
Extraordinary = domestic=20 Arrangements.
Tinah's Mother visits the Ship.
A Sheep brought = from=20 Ulietea.
Heavy Storm.
Death of the Surgeon.
Taowne and = Toahroah=20 Harbours examined.

1788. November.

After dinner I went on shore and, while I was at the tents, from = having=20 exposed myself too much in the sun, I was taken ill and continued in = much pain=20 for near an hour. This was soon known among the natives and I was = exceedingly=20 surprised to see Tinah and all the principal people, both men and women, = collecting round me and offering their assistance. For this short = illness I was=20 made ample amends by the pleasure I received from the attention and = appearance=20 of affection in these kind people.

Friday 14.

This morning I had numberless enquiries after my health. The weather = being=20 fine I invited Tinah, Oreepyah, and Poeeno, to accompany me to Tettaha = in order=20 to enquire after the cow; and soon after sunrise we set off in the = launch.=20 Tettaha is nearly four leagues from Point Venus. On our arrival Tinah = sent a man=20 to give notice of our visit. The chief of the district, whose name was = Teppahoo,=20 did not appear, but sent a messenger to demand if I came only to see the = cow or=20 to take it away with me. In answer to this I sent assurances that I only = desired=20 to see it, and the chiefs who were with me spoke to the same effect. I = was then=20 desired to proceed in the boat farther along shore to the westward. In = our way=20 Tinah made me stop among some fishing canoes to purchase fish for him, = which he=20 eat raw with salt water for sauce. When we arrived at the landing-place = a great=20 number of people had collected, and soon after Teppahoo arrived. = Oreepyah and I=20 went with him about a quarter of a mile, when I was shown one of the = most=20 beautiful heifers I ever saw. I asked if they had any more but they all = said=20 there was no other than a bull at Itteah, as before mentioned. I could = not=20 refrain from expressing my displeasure at the destruction and the = foolish=20 separation of these fine animals. I had shared with Captain Cook in the = trouble=20 of this business and had been equally anxious for the success.

The district of Tettaha is not so luxuriant and fruitful as the = country about=20 Matavai. As I saw nothing of consequence to detain me I made a present = to=20 Teppahoo and, after inviting him to visit me on board the ship, which he = promised to do, I took leave. Tinah had remained all this time in the = boat. I=20 observed that no respect was shown to him at this place, nor was he able = to=20 procure a coconut or a breadfruit otherwise than by purchasing it. The = heifer=20 being here is a proof of this district not having been friendly to the = people of=20 Matavai and Oparre.

In our way back, having to row against the wind, we stopped to = refresh at=20 Oparre, and it was eight o'clock by the time we arrived at the ship. I = kept my=20 fellow travellers on board to supper and they did not fail to remind me = of the=20 king's health.

Monday 17.

Our collection of breadfruit plants at the tents continued = increasing. This=20 morning I sent twelve on board, in pots, to discover where they would = thrive the=20 best, the air being more temperate on board the ship than on shore. = While I was=20 absent from the ship Teppahoo had been on board and left a hog as a = present for=20 me.

After dinner today Tinah, who was my constant visitor, left the table = sooner=20 than usual. When he was gone Oreepyah, his brother, and Oedidde, told me = a piece=20 of scandal, which had been before hinted to me but which till now I had = not=20 heard of with certainty: this was that Iddeah, Tinah's wife, kept a = gallant, who=20 was a towtow, or servant, and the very person who always fed Tinah at = dinner:=20 and this was so far from being without Tinah's knowledge or consent that = they=20 said it was by his desire. They added many other circumstances and, as I = appeared to doubt, they took several opportunities in the course of the = day of=20 mentioning it to other people, who all declared it was true.

Tuesday 18.

This afternoon I saw Teppahoo and invited him on board: before we = parted I=20 bargained with him for the heifer which he promised to bring in five = days. My=20 intention was that if I got the heifer I would endeavour to purchase the = bull at=20 Itteah: but if that could not be done then I could send the heifer as a = present=20 to the possessor of the bull, which might equally well answer my = purpose.

It has been mentioned that Tinah had a place in my cabin to keep = those things=20 which I gave him as being more secure on board than on shore. I had = remarked=20 lately that his hoard seemed to diminish the more I endeavoured to = increase it:=20 at length I discovered that Iddeah kept another hoard in the master's = cabin,=20 which she regularly enriched from her husband's whenever I made him a = present,=20 apprehending that I should cease giving when I saw Tinah's locker full. = At his=20 request I set the carpenters to work to make him a chest large enough = for=20 himself and wife to sleep on. Captain Cook had formerly given him such a = chest=20 but it had been taken from him by the Eimeo people.

Friday 21.

This forenoon I received a message from Teppahoo to acquaint me the = heifer=20 was brought to Matavai. I immediately went on shore and found that he = had been=20 as good as his word. The purchase money was paid, which consisted of a = shirt, a=20 hatchet, a spike nail, a knife, a pair of scissors, a gimlet, and file; = to which=20 was added a small quantity of loaf-sugar. Teppahoo appeared well pleased = with=20 his bargain; and I sent the heifer to Poeeno's residence near which was = plenty=20 of grass.

In the afternoon I was invited to a heiva, the most extraordinary = part of=20 which was an oration, with some ceremonies in compliment to us. Twelve = men were=20 divided into four ranks, with two women in the front; behind them all = stood a=20 priest who made a speech which lasted ten minutes and which was listened = to with=20 some attention. During this the picture of Captain Cook, which had been = brought=20 for that purpose, was placed by my side. When the priest left off = speaking a=20 piece of white cloth was wrapped round the picture and another piece = round me.=20 The priest then spoke again for a short time, and an old man placed a = piece of=20 plaited coconut leaf at my feet; the same was done to Tinah, and one = piece was=20 put under the picture. After this the dancing began, which was in the = same style=20 that we had already seen.

The head of the ship was the figure of a woman, and not ill carved. = As we=20 were painting the ship's upper works I directed this figure to be = painted in=20 colours, with which the islanders were much pleased. Not only the men = but the=20 women desired me to bring English women when I came again. Today = Oedidde,=20 thinking I was not convinced of the truth of what he had told me about = Iddeah,=20 mentioned the affair to the lady herself in my hearing, at which she = laughed,=20 but said he did ill to tell me of it. However it was evident she was not = much=20 offended for they were both very much diverted in discoursing upon the=20 subject.

I find it is not at all uncommon for brothers to have connection with = the=20 wives of each other, particularly elder brothers with the wives of their = younger=20 brothers, which is generally allowed and no offence taken: but if any = person not=20 belonging to the family endeavours at the same intimacy it is resented = as an=20 injury. Inclination seems to be the only binding law of marriage at=20 Otaheite.

As I purposed to get instruments on shore at Point Venus to make = observations=20 I desired Tinah to order a house to be brought there for me, which was = done and=20 fixed in half an hour, being only a light shed supported by posts.

Monday 24.

Today I bought a turtle that was caught on the reefs. As Tinah was = going to=20 leave me for a few days I had it dressed for his dinner. He told me that = his=20 mother, Oberreeroah, was arrived from the island Tethuroa, and begged = that I=20 would send for her in the morning and take care of her till he returned, = which I=20 willingly promised.

Tuesday 25.

This morning I sent a boat to Oparre, which returned in the afternoon = with=20 Oberreeroah and two women, her servants. As she was old and corpulent it = was=20 with difficulty that we helped her up the ship's side. As soon as she = was in the=20 ship she sat down on the gangway and, clasping my knees in her arms, = expressed=20 her pleasure at seeing me by a flood of tears. Her servants then = produced three=20 pieces of cloth which, with a large hog, some breadfruit, plantains, and = coconuts, she had brought as a present. As she was fatigued by her = journey she=20 wished to remain on board all night, and I directed accommodations to be = prepared, which was done with little trouble as nothing more was = necessary than=20 a mat and some cloth spread on the deck. She had with her a favourite = cat, bred=20 from one that had been given her by Captain Cook. She told me all the=20 misfortunes that had befallen her son and friends since Captain Cook = left=20 Otaheite. All the accounts agree in some of the cattle being now alive = at the=20 island Eimeo: in the number they differ but that there were eight is the = least=20 account.

Wednesday 26.

In the morning, Oberreeroah being desirous to go on shore, I made her = a=20 present of several things, which she did not care to take with her then, = but=20 requested that I would keep them safe for her. Only Moannah and Poeeno = dined=20 with me today. They told me that Tinah and his brother Oreepyah were not = on good=20 terms together, and it was imagined that they would fight as soon as the = ship=20 was gone. I had observed a coolness between them, and had at times = endeavoured=20 to make them more cordial, but with very little effect. Their quarrel = has arisen=20 from a disagreement between their wives.

In the afternoon a canoe from Ulietea arrived in which was an Earee = or chief=20 of that island, who is a nephew to Oberreeroah. He brought a sheep with = him: the=20 poor animal was infected with the mange and in very poor condition. The = climate=20 had not as far as I could judge altered the quality of the wool, with = which he=20 was well covered except a part about the shoulders. I imagine this = animal to be=20 the English ewe left by Captain Cook. The owner assured me that there = were ten=20 sheep at Huaheine; the truth of which I much doubted. I was surprised = and rather=20 mortified to find that he set so little value on this as to let me have = it, at=20 the first word, for a small adze. I sent it to be kept at Poeeno's with = the=20 heifer.

Friday 28.

Tinah and his wife returned to Matavai and, from appearances which I = have no=20 reason to mistrust, were sincerely glad to see me again after their = short=20 absence. They brought as usual a present of a hog and fruit. This = morning there=20 was an eclipse of the sun, but the weather was so cloudy that I had only = an=20 opportunity of observing the end of the eclipse, which was at 19 hours = 43=20 minutes 53 seconds.

Saturday 29.

I sent a man to shear the ewe, by which a remedy could more easily be = applied=20 to cure the disease with which it was infected. The garden made near the = tents=20 was not in a prosperous condition: most of the melons and cucumbers were = destroyed by insects; and the soil being sandy was not favourable to the = other=20 seeds. I therefore chose another spot of ground farther from the seaside = and had=20 an assortment of seeds sown.

December. Monday 1.

In the night the rudder of one of the boats was stolen from the = tents. On=20 landing in the morning neither Tinah nor any of his family came near me, = being,=20 I was informed, afraid of my displeasure. As the loss was not great I=20 immediately sent to assure them that I had no anger except against the = person=20 who committed the theft. In consequence of this message Tinah and some = of the=20 other chiefs came to the tents and promised that they would exert = themselves to=20 discover the thief and get the rudder restored. This was the first theft = of any=20 consequence that had been committed since the tents were on shore, and = my=20 suspicions fell chiefly on the people who were here from some of the = other=20 islands. Tinah had just begun to build a house for himself and I = promised that=20 our carpenters should assist him. Whydooah, the youngest brother of = Tinah, had=20 lately been one of my constant visitors and seemed to have left off his = former=20 custom of getting drunk with the Ava. He was esteemed one of their best=20 warriors; and I was told that in the quarrel with the people of Eimeo he = killed=20 Maheine the chief of that island.

Friday 5.

The weather for some time past had been very unsettled. This = afternoon the=20 wind blew fresh from the north-west, which occasioned the sea to break = very high=20 across the Dolphin bank; and in the night such a heavy broken sea came = into the=20 bay that we were obliged to batten all the hatchways down, and to keep = everybody=20 upon deck all night though the rain came down in torrents. The ship = rolled in a=20 most violent manner.

Saturday 6.

In the morning the wind increasing and, there being no possibility of = putting=20 to sea, we struck yards and topmasts and trusted to our anchors. The = river=20 swelled so much with the rain that the point of land on which the tents = stood=20 became an island; and to preserve the breadfruit plants from being = endangered=20 the people were obliged to cut a passage for the river through a part of = the=20 beach at a distance from the tents. The sea broke very high on the = beach;=20 nevertheless a canoe put off and to my surprise Tinah, his wife, and = Moannah=20 made their way good through the surf and came on board to see me. There = was no=20 other person in the canoe for the weather did not admit of useless = passengers:=20 each of them had a paddle which they managed with great activity and = skill.=20 These kind people embraced me with many tears and expressed their = apprehensions=20 for the safety of the ship. Towards noon however the sea abated = considerably,=20 but the wind continued to blow strong from the north-west. At sunset = Iddeah went=20 on shore but Tinah would remain with me the whole night.

Sunday 7.

The wind continued between the north and north-west but had so much = moderated=20 that I no longer considered our situation to be alarming. At noon Iddeah = returned to the ship with a large hog and a supply of breadfruit and = coconuts;=20 and soon after she and Tinah left the ship, having exacted a promise = from me=20 that if the weather was moderate I would go on shore in the morning and = visit=20 their parents and sister who, they told me, had been much alarmed on our = account. I received a visit likewise from Poeeno and his wife. This = woman had=20 always shown great regard for us; and now, on our meeting, before I = could be=20 aware of it, she began beating her head violently with a shark's tooth = so that=20 her face was covered with blood in an instant. I put a stop to this as = soon as I=20 could, and with the drying up of the blood her agitation subsided. This = ceremony=20 is frequently performed upon occasions either of joy or grief. Her = husband said=20 that if any accident happened to the ship I should live with him and = that they=20 would cut down trees and build me another ship.

From this sample of the weather and the information of the natives I = was=20 convinced it would not be safe to continue in Matavai Bay much longer; = and I=20 determined to get everything ready for sailing as speedily as I = could.

Monday 8.

The night proved moderate and in the morning I went on shore where I = was=20 received by Oberreeroah, and several other friends with great = affection.

The plants received no injury from the bad weather having been = carefully=20 covered from the spray of the sea: some were in a dormant state and = others were=20 striking out young shoots. Nelson thought that it was better to refrain = a few=20 days from taking them on board; I therefore consented to defer it. He = was of=20 opinion that the plants could be propagated from the roots only, and I = directed=20 some boxes to be filled as we could stow them where no others could be=20 placed.

Tuesday 9.

This afternoon, in hauling the launch on shore to be repaired, many = of the=20 natives assisting, one of them, a fine boy about ten years old, was = thrown down=20 and a roller which was placed under the boat went over him. The surgeon = being=20 ill I sent off for his assistant. Fortunately no limb was broken nor did = he=20 receive any material injury. The surgeon had been a long time ill, the = effect of=20 intemperance and indolence. He had latterly scarce ever stirred out of = his cabin=20 but was not apprehended to be in a dangerous state; nevertheless this = evening he=20 appeared to be so much worse than usual that it was thought necessary to = remove=20 him to some place where he could have more air; but to no effect for he = died in=20 an hour afterwards. This unfortunate man drank very hard and was so = averse to=20 exercise that he never would be prevailed on to take half a dozen turns = upon=20 deck at a time in the course of the voyage.

Wednesday 10.

As I wished to bury the surgeon on shore I mentioned it to Tinah, who = said=20 there would be no objection but that it would be necessary to ask his = father's=20 consent first; which he undertook to do and immediately left me for that = purpose. By this circumstance it appears that, though the eldest son of = an Earee=20 succeeds to the title and honours of the father as soon as he is born, = yet a=20 considerable portion of authority remains with the father even after the = son is=20 of age. When Tinah returned I went with him to the spot intended for the = burial=20 place, taking with us two men to dig the grave; but on our arrival I = found the=20 natives had already begun it. Tinah asked me if they were doing right? = "There,"=20 says he, "the sun rises and there it sets." The idea that the grave = should be=20 east and west I imagine they learnt from the Spaniards, as the captain = of one of=20 their ships was buried at Oeitepeha in 1774. Certain it is they had not = the=20 information from anybody belonging to our ship; for I believe we should = not have=20 thought of it. The grave however was marked out very exactly. At four in = the=20 afternoon the body was interred: the chiefs and many of the natives came = to see=20 the ceremony and showed great attention during the service. Some of the = chiefs=20 were very inquisitive about what was to be done with the surgeon's cabin = on=20 account of apparitions. They said when a man died in Otaheite and was = carried to=20 the Tupapow that as soon as night came he was surrounded by spirits, and = if any=20 person went there by himself they would devour him: therefore they said = that not=20 less than two people together should go into the surgeon's cabin for = some time.=20 I did not endeavour to dissuade them from this belief otherwise than by = laughing=20 and letting them know that we had no such apprehensions.

In the afternoon the effects of the deceased were disposed of and I = appointed=20 Mr. Thomas Denman Ledward the surgeon's mate to do duty as surgeon.

Friday 12.

I went in a boat to examine the harbours about Oparre and found two = formed by=20 the reefs. The westernmost is the most convenient for sailing in or out = but is=20 not well sheltered from a north-west wind or sea. This harbour is called = by the=20 natives Taowne: it is about a league and a half distant from Point Venus = and may=20 be known by a remarkable mountain, called by the natives Wawry, which = bears=20 south-south-east from the entrance.

The easternmost harbour is called Toahroah. It is small but as secure = as a=20 reef harbour can well be. It is about three miles distant from Point = Venus. The=20 chief objection to this harbour is the difficulty of getting out with = the common=20 tradewind, the entrance being on the east side, not more than one = hundred yards=20 wide and the depth without inconvenient for warping. On the south side = of the=20 entrance is a Morai: the reef side is to be kept on board and a lookout = to be=20 kept from aloft, whence the shoal water is better discerned than from = the=20 deck.

Sunday 14.

This forenoon we performed divine service. Many of the principal = natives=20 attended and behaved with great decency. Some of the women at one time = betrayed=20 an inclination to laugh at our general responses; but on my looking at = them they=20 appeared much ashamed. After the service I was asked if no offering was = to be=20 made for the Eatua to eat.

The weather had been fair all the last week and at this time appeared = quite=20 settled, so that I was under no apprehensions of danger from continuing = a little=20 longer in Matavai bay.

3D""=20=
Sketch=20 from recollection and anchor-bearings of the north part of Otaheite from = Point=20 Venus to Taowne Harbour.
A. Bounty-Rock, where the ship struck, 9 = feet=20 water.
B. Toahroah Harbour, where the ship lay.
C. Tettyoorah=20 Harbour.

CHAPTER 9.

A Walk into the Country.
The Peeah Roah.
Prevailed = on by=20 the Kindness of the Chiefs to defer our Departure.
Breadfruit = Plants=20 collected.
Move the Ship to Toahroah Harbour.
Fishing.
Three = of the=20 Ship's Company desert.
Indiscretion of our People on = Shore.
Instances of=20 Jealousy.
Mourning.
Bull brought to Oparre by a Prophet.
The=20 Deserters recovered.
Tinah proposes to visit = England.

1788. December. Wednesday 17.

This morning I took a walk into the country accompanied by Nelson and = my old=20 friend Moannah. The breadth of the border of low land before we arrived = at the=20 foot of the hills was near three miles. This part of our journey was = through a=20 delightful country, well covered with breadfruit and coconut-trees, and = strewed=20 with houses in which were swarms of children. We then proceeded along a = valley,=20 still among houses, with plantations of yams, tarro, the cloth-plant, = and their=20 favourite root the Ava: there were breadfruit trees on the sides of the = hills=20 which were dwarfs in comparison of those on the low land. Our walk was = very much=20 interrupted by a river, the course of which was so serpentine that we = had to=20 cross it several times, being carried over on men's shoulders.

On arriving at a Morai I saw a number of the natives collected and = was=20 informed that the priests were performing their devotions. Sixteen men = were=20 sitting on their heels; in the front was a pole covered with a plaited = coconut=20 branch, and before each of the men there was a number of small pieces of = the=20 same leaf plaited, which they call Hahyree, and each had likewise a = piece round=20 his wrist. One who appeared to be the chief priest prayed aloud, and was = answered by all the rest together: after a few short sentences and = responses=20 they rose and each carried an Hahyree, which they placed at the foot of = the pole=20 and returned to prayer: this was repeated till all the Hahyree were = delivered=20 and then the ceremony ended. I must not forget to mention that they had = placed=20 near the pole an offering of plantains and breadfruit, which they left = for the=20 Eatua. They very kindly asked us to partake of a roasted hog that had = been=20 prepared for them whilst they were praying; but as I wished to make the = most of=20 the morning before the sun was too high I declined their offer, and = Moannah=20 bespoke refreshments to be ready for us when we returned.

We continued our walk up the valley, which became very narrow, and = had=20 advanced a considerable way beyond all the houses and plantations when = we were=20 suddenly stopped by a cascade that fell into the river from a height of = above=20 200 feet: the fall at this time was not great but in the heavy rains = must be=20 considerable. The natives look upon this as the most wonderful sight in = the=20 island. The fall of water is the least curious part; the cliff over = which it=20 comes is perpendicular, forming an appearance as if supported by square = pillars=20 of stone, and with a regularity that is surprising. Underneath is a pool = eight=20 or nine feet deep into which the water falls; and in this place all the = natives=20 make a point of bathing once in their lives, probably from some = religious=20 idea.

The hills here approach each other within a few yards and are well = covered=20 with wood. As the road appeared difficult I did not care to proceed = towards the=20 mountain. I cannot with certainty say how far this curious precipice is = from the=20 bay, but think in the road by which we went it cannot be less than seven = miles.=20 It is called Peeah Roah.

In our return we found a young pig prepared for us and we made a = hearty meal.=20 We dined in the house of an old acquaintance of Nelson's for whom he had = in 1777=20 planted the two shaddock plants formerly mentioned which he had brought = from the=20 Friendly Islands. These we had the satisfaction to see were grown to = fine trees=20 and full of fruit.

In their plantations they do not take much pains except with the Ava = and the=20 Cloth-plant, both of which they are careful to keep clear of weeds. Many = of the=20 plantations of the cloth-plant were fenced with stone and surrounded = with a=20 ditch. The yams and plantains are mostly on the higher grounds. As soon = as we=20 had finished our dinner we returned towards the ship. I was much = delighted in=20 this walk with the number of children that I saw in every part of the = country:=20 they are very handsome and sprightly and full of antic tricks. They have = many=20 diversions that are common with the boys in England such as flying = kites, cats=20 cradle, swinging, dancing or jumping in a rope, walking upon stilts and=20 wrestling.

Friday 19.

The wind today blew fresh but continued regular from the east and=20 east-south-east. We had likewise much rain and a long swell set into the = bay. I=20 had not yet determined whether, on leaving Matavai bay, I would go to = the island=20 Eimeo or to the harbour of Toahroah near Oparre: this uncertainty made = Tinah and=20 the rest of my friends very anxious; and they appeared much distressed = on my=20 desiring them this afternoon to send on board all the things which they = wished=20 to have repaired by the forge without delay, that what they wanted might = be done=20 before the ship left Matavai, which I told them would be in a few days. = They=20 very earnestly entreated I would stay one month longer. I represented = this as=20 impossible and asked Tinah if he would not go with me to Eimeo; but he = said that=20 notwithstanding my protection he was certain the Eimeo people would = watch for an=20 opportunity to kill him. He remained on board with me all night but his = wife=20 went on shore and returned early in the morning, bringing with her some = axes and=20 other things that were in need of repair.

Saturday 20.

When I went on shore I found Otow, Oberree-roah, Moannah, and several = others=20 in great tribulation at the thoughts that we were so soon to leave them. = All the=20 people of Matavai I saw were much concerned at my intention of going to = Eimeo,=20 and took every opportunity to prejudice me against the people of that = island; to=20 which I paid very little attention as their motive was obvious.

Sunday 21.

Their expressions of friendship and affection for me however I could = not=20 disregard, as I had no doubt of their being genuine and unaffected, and = I felt=20 my unwillingness to leave these kind people so much increased that the = next day=20 I sent the master in the launch to reexamine the depth of water between = this bay=20 and Toahroah harbour. He returned in the evening and acquainted me that = he found=20 a good bottom with not less than sixteen fathoms depth all the way. The = harbour=20 of Toahroah appearing every way safe I determined to get the ship there = as=20 speedily as possible, and I immediately made my intention public, which=20 occasioned great rejoicing.

Wednesday 24.

This day we took the plants on board, being 774 pots, all in a = healthy state;=20 for whenever any plant had an unfavourable appearance it was replaced by = another. The number of those rejected was 302, of which not one in ten = but was=20 found to be growing at the root.

The natives reckon eight kinds of the breadfruit tree, each of which = they=20 distinguish by a different name. 1. Patteah. 2. Eroroo. 3. Awanna. 4. = Mi-re. 5.=20 Oree. 6. Powerro. 7. Appeere. 8. Rowdeeah. In the first, fourth, and = eighth=20 class the leaf differs from the rest; the fourth is more sinuated; the = eighth=20 has a large broad leaf not at all sinuated. The difference of the fruit = is=20 principally in the first and eighth class. In the first the fruit is = rather=20 larger and more of an oblong form: in the eighth it is round and not = above half=20 the size of the others. I enquired if plants could be produced from the = seed and=20 was told they could not but that they must be taken from the root. The = plants=20 are best collected after wet weather, at which time the earth balls = round the=20 roots and they are not liable to suffer by being moved.

The most common method of dividing time at Otaheite is by moons; but = they=20 likewise make a division of the year into six parts, each of which is=20 distinguished by the name of the kind of breadfruit then in season. In = this=20 division they keep a small interval called Tawa in which they do not use = the=20 breadfruit. This is about the end of February when the fruit is not in=20 perfection; but there is no part of the year in which the trees are = entirely=20 bare.

Thursday 25.

At daylight we unmoored and I sent the tents in the launch to Oparre = with=20 directions that, after landing them, the launch should meet the ship in = the=20 entrance of Toahroah harbour to show the safest part of the channel. At=20 half-past ten we got the ship under sail and ran down under top-sails: = when we=20 were near the launch it fell calm and the ship shot past her. We = immediately let=20 the anchor go but to our great surprise we found the ship was aground = forwards.=20 She had run on so easy that we had not perceived it at the time. This = accident=20 occasioned us much trouble as we were obliged to send anchors out astern = to get=20 the ship afloat: in doing this one of the cables swept a rock and was = not got=20 clear again without much difficulty. When the ship was moored Point = Venus bore=20 north 46 degrees east. The east point of the harbour north 65 degrees = east=20 one-quarter of a mile. Our distance from the shore half a cable's = length; depth=20 of water 8 1/2 fathoms.

Friday 26.

The next morning on my landing I was welcomed by all the principal = people; I=20 may say by the whole crowd, and congratulated on the safety of the ship. = Tinah=20 showed me a house near the waterside abreast the ship, which he desired = I would=20 make use of and which was large enough for all our purposes. He and his = brother=20 Oreepyah then desired I would stay and receive a formal address and = present=20 which they called Otee. To this I assented and a stool was brought for = me to sit=20 on. They then left me with Moannah and in a short time I saw Tinah = returning=20 with about twenty men who all made a stop at some distance, and a priest = said a=20 short prayer to the Eatua, to which the rest made reply. A man was then = sent to=20 me three several times, at each time bringing me a small pig and the = stem of a=20 plantain leaf. The first they told me was for the God of Brittannee, the = next=20 for King George, and the last for myself. Moannah then got up and, = without being=20 dictated to, made an oration for me; the purport of which I understood = to be=20 that I received their offering with thanks; that we were good people and = friends; and therefore he exhorted them to commit no thefts: he told = them to=20 bring their pigs, coconuts, and breadfruit, and they would receive good = things=20 in return; that we took nothing without their consent; and finally that = every=20 man was to quit the place (the house we occupied) at night; for if they = made any=20 visit in the dark they would be killed. With this speech the ceremony = ended.

I found this a delightful situation and in every respect convenient. = The ship=20 was perfectly sheltered by the reefs in smooth water and close to a fine = beach=20 without the least surf. A small river with very good water runs into the = sea=20 about the middle of the harbour. I gave directions for the plants to be = landed=20 and the same party to be with them as at Matavai. Tinah fixed his = dwelling close=20 to our station.

Monday 29.

Some of the natives took advantage of the butcher's negligence and = stole his=20 cleaver. I complained of this to the chiefs who were on board and they = promised=20 that they would endeavour to recover it; but an article so valuable as = this was=20 to the natives I had no great expectation of seeing restored.

The ship continued to be supplied by the natives as usual. Coconuts = were in=20 such plenty that I believe not a pint of water was drunk on board the = ship in=20 the twenty-four hours. Breadfruit began to be scarce though we purchased = without=20 difficulty a sufficient quantity for our consumption: there was however = another=20 harvest approaching which they expected would be fit for use in five or = six=20 weeks. The better kind of plantains also were become scarce; but a kind = which=20 they call vayhee were in great plenty. This fruit does not hang on the = trees=20 like the other kinds but grows upon an upright stalk of considerable = strength=20 and substance. Though this plantain is inferior in quality to most of = the others=20 it affords great subsistence to the natives. We received almost every = day=20 presents of fish, chiefly dolphin and albacore, and a few small rock = fish. Their=20 fishing is mostly in the night when they make strong lights on the reefs = which=20 attract the fish to them. Sometimes in fine weather the canoes are out = in such=20 numbers that the whole sea appears illuminated. In the canoes they fish = with=20 hook and line and on the reefs they struck the fish with a spear. Some = likewise=20 carry out small nets which are managed by two men. In the daytime their = fishing=20 canoes go without the reefs, sometimes to a considerable distance, where = they=20 fish with rods and lines and catch bonetas and other fish. Whenever = there is a=20 show of fish a fleet of canoes immediately proceeds to sea. Their hooks = being=20 bright are used without bait in the manner of our artificial flies. = Their rods=20 are made of bamboo; but when there are any very large fish they make use = of an=20 outrigger over the fore part of the canoe, about twenty-five feet in = length,=20 which has two prongs at the extremity, to each of which is fastened a = hook and=20 line; and when a fish takes the hook it is raised by ropes managed by = two men in=20 the stern of the canoe.

January 1789. Thursday 1.

Contrary to my expectation Tinah this afternoon brought on board the = cleaver=20 that had been stolen. The thief had taken it to Attahooroo, and Tinah = told me,=20 which I could easily believe, that it was given up with reluctance.

Friday 2.

The next morning I offered Tinah a present of axes and other things = but, as=20 he suspected this was meant by way of return for getting the cleaver = restored,=20 he would not be prevailed with to accept a single article.

I had constantly the company of Tinah, his wife, and some of his = relations;=20 but the royal children, though so near us, never came in sight of the = ship. The=20 river separated them from the place occupied by our people on shore and, = for=20 fear of giving alarm or offence, I gave strict orders that no one should = attempt=20 to go near their place of residence.

Monday 5.

At the relief of the watch at four o'clock this morning the small = cutter was=20 missing. I was immediately informed of it and mustered the ship's = company, when=20 it appeared that three men were absent: Charles Churchill, the ship's = corporal=20 and two of the seamen, William Musprat and John Millward, the latter of = whom had=20 been sentinel from twelve to two in the morning. They had taken with = them eight=20 stand of arms and ammunition; but what their plan was, or which way they = had=20 gone, no one on board seemed to have the least knowledge. I went on = shore to the=20 chiefs and soon received information that the boat was at Matavai; and = that the=20 deserters had departed in a sailing canoe for the island Tethuroa. On = this=20 intelligence I sent the master to Matavai to search for the small = cutter, and=20 one of the chiefs went with him; but before they had got halfway they = met the=20 boat with five of the natives who were bringing her back to the ship. = This=20 service rendered me by the people of Matavai pleased me much and I = rewarded the=20 men accordingly.

I told Tinah and the other chiefs that I expected they would get the=20 deserters brought back; for that I was determined not to leave Otaheite = without=20 them. They assured me that they would do everything in their power to = have them=20 taken and it was agreed that Oreepyah and Moannah should depart the next = morning=20 for Tethuroa. Oreepyah enquired if they had pocket pistols "for," said = he,=20 "though we may surprise and seize them before they can make use of their = muskets, yet if they have pistols they may do mischief, even while they = are=20 held." I quietened these apprehensions by assuring them that the = deserters had=20 no pistols with them.

Tuesday 6.

At daylight Oreepyah and Moannah set off in two canoes for Tethuroa, = but the=20 weather became so boisterous that they were obliged to return in the = forenoon,=20 and I was happy to see them get safe in as the sea ran very high without = the=20 harbour. From the first of this month the weather and winds had been = much=20 unsettled with a great deal of rain. Our former station at Matavai = appeared not=20 at all safe, the sea at times breaking high over the Dolphin bank and = making a=20 great swell in the bay. Oreepyah and Moannah both promised me that they = would=20 sail again as soon as the weather should be fine.

Friday 9.

The wind continued to blow strong at sea though in the harbour we had = at=20 times but light breezes. Poeeno, from Matavai, came to see me today: he = said he=20 was apprehensive that I was displeased with him on account of our = deserters=20 having been carried to Tethuroa by a canoe from Matavai. This he = declared had=20 been done before he heard of it; and that the only service in his power = he had=20 not neglected to do for me, which was the sending our boat back. As this = was=20 really an act of friendship I received him with great cordiality; and he = assured=20 me that there could be no doubt from the directions Tinah had given of = the=20 deserters being brought to the ship as soon as the weather would admit = canoes to=20 go after them.

Saturday 10.

One of the officers this morning on shore inadvertently plucked a = branch from=20 a tree called Tutuee, that bears the oil nut, which was growing at a = Morai. On=20 entering with it into the house occupied by our people all the natives, = both men=20 and women, immediately went away. When I went on shore I found this = branch tied=20 to one of the posts of the house, although the effect it had on the = natives was=20 known. I was much displeased at this piece of wantonness and ordered the = branch=20 to be taken away; but the natives notwithstanding would not come near = the place.=20 They said the house was taboo, which I understand to signify = interdicted, and=20 that none of them might approach it till the taboo was taken off, which = could=20 only be done by Tinah. To take anything away from a Morai is regarded as = a kind=20 of sacrilege and, they believe, gives great offence to the Eatua. At my = request=20 Tinah took off the taboo, but not before the afternoon. This was = performed by an=20 offering of a plantain leaf at the Morai, and a prayer made to the = Eatua. After=20 this ceremony the house was resorted to by the natives as usual.

I had not yet given up the hope of obtaining the bull from Itteah, = though I=20 had hitherto received no satisfactory answer to the messages which Tinah = had=20 sent at my desire: I therefore spoke to Poeeno who undertook to = negotiate this=20 business, and I commissioned him to make very liberal offers. He left me = after=20 dinner to return to Matavai. In the evening a messenger arrived from him = to=20 acquaint me that, in his absence, the sheep which I had trusted to his = care had=20 been killed by a dog; and that he had sent the culprit, hoping that I = would kill=20 him for the offence he had committed. This poor sheep had been so much = diseased=20 that I could not help suspecting he died without the dog's assistance, = and that=20 the story of the dog was invented to prevent my attributing it to want = of care.=20 This doubt did not appear in my answer; as for the dog I told the = messenger to=20 do with him what he pleased.

Tuesday 13.

This morning, the weather being more moderate than it had been for = some days=20 past, Oreepyah sailed with two canoes for Tethuroa.

Wednesday 14.

Some business prevented Moannah from accompanying him but he followed = the=20 next day with two other canoes. The wood that we had got at Matavai = being=20 expended I applied to Tinah, who sent three trees down to the waterside = before=20 night, which when cut up made a good launch load.

I saw two instances of jealousy today one of which had nearly = produced fatal=20 consequences. A man was detected with a married woman by the husband, = who=20 stabbed him in the belly with a knife: fortunately the intestines = escaped and=20 the wound did not prove dangerous. The other instance was a girl, who = had=20 constantly lived with my coxswain, beating another girl that she = discovered to=20 have been too intimate with him.

Friday 16.

In walking today with Tinah near a tupapow I was surprised by a = sudden outcry=20 of grief. As I expressed a desire to see the distressed person Tinah = took me to=20 the place where we found a number of women, one of whom was the mother = of a=20 young female child that lay dead. On seeing us their mourning not only=20 immediately ceased, but to my astonishment they all burst into an = immoderate fit=20 of laughter, and while we remained appeared much diverted with our = visit. I told=20 Tinah the woman had no sorrow for her child otherwise her grief would = not have=20 so easily subsided; on which he jocosely told her to cry again: they did = not=20 however resume their mourning in our presence. This strange behaviour = would=20 incline us to think them hardhearted and unfeeling, did we not know that = they=20 are fond parents and in general very affectionate: it is therefore to be = ascribed to their extreme levity of disposition; and it is probable that = death=20 does not appear to them with so many terrors as it does to people of a = more=20 serious cast.

Sunday 18.

I received a message from Poeeno to acquaint me that he had been = successful=20 in his negotiation for the bull, which he had driven part of the way by = land,=20 but could not get farther on account of the rivers and therefore desired = a boat=20 should be sent for him. I accordingly ordered the launch to be got ready = and at=20 two o'clock the next morning Mr. Fryer, the master, set off in her.

Monday 19.

In the afternoon the launch returned with the bull and my friend = Poeeno. For=20 the night I directed that the bull should remain at Oparre and the next = day he=20 was taken to the cow at Matavai.

Wednesday 21.

Today Poeeno brought to me the person from whom he had the bull to = receive=20 the stipulated payment, which was one of every article of traffic that I = had in=20 my possession. This man, whose name was Oweevee, they told me was = inspired by a=20 divine spirit; and that in all matters of consequence he was consulted, = for that=20 he conversed with the Eatua. It was, they said, the Eatua that ordered = him to=20 demand the bull from Tinah, which not to have complied with would have = been the=20 height of impiety. I endeavoured to convince them of the roguery of this = man,=20 thinking I had a fair argument to prove it by his selling that which the = Eatua=20 had ordered him to keep; but here I was easily defeated for it seems the = Eatua=20 told him to sell me the beast. This being the case I said I would not = give the=20 animals to any person; that they were now mine and that I would leave = them under=20 the protection of Poeeno and Tinah who I hoped would take care of them = for me=20 till I returned. They both entered into my views and promised the = animals should=20 be attended to, and told me that, while they were considered as my = property, no=20 one would attempt to take them away.

Thursday 22.

This afternoon I received a message from Teppahoo to inform me that = our=20 deserters had passed this harbour and were at Tettaha, about five miles = distant.=20 I ordered the cutter to be got ready, and a little before sunset left = the ship,=20 taking Oedidee with me. By his advice I landed at some distance from the = place=20 where the deserters were but, thinking it necessary to have the boat = within=20 call, and Oedidee assuring me that there was safe landing farther on, I = directed=20 the boat to proceed along shore whilst Oedidee and I walked along the = beach. The=20 night was very dark and windy and the shore being rocky I soon lost = sight of the=20 boat. A few of the natives had joined us in our walk and from their = manner I had=20 reason to suspect them of a design to close upon us, with an intention = no doubt=20 to plunder: I was provided with pocket-pistols and on producing one they = left=20 us. Oedidee was so much alarmed that I could scarce prevail on him to = proceed.=20 When we arrived at Teppahoo's house we were very kindly received by him = and his=20 wife. The cutter was arrived but there being a very high surf she could = not come=20 within a hundred yards of the shore.

The deserters I was informed were in a house close to us, and I = imagined=20 there would be no great difficulty in securing them with the assistance = of the=20 natives. They had however heard of my arrival; and when I was near the = house=20 they came out without their arms and delivered themselves up. I sent = directions=20 off to the boat for one of my people to come on shore and for the boat = to return=20 to the place where I had landed. My next business was to secure the = arms, which=20 I delivered to Teppahoo to take charge of for the night. One musket and = two=20 bayonets were missing, which they said were lost by the canoe in which = they came=20 from Tethuroa having overset. I then took leave of Teppahoo who = presented us=20 with a plentiful supply of provisions, and we proceeded with the = deserters=20 towards the boat but, as the wind had increased and it rained hard, I = determined=20 to remain on shore till the morning; and having found shelter for the = people we=20 passed the remainder of the night without accident. At daylight I sent = for the=20 arms and we returned to the ship.

Friday 23.

I learnt from the deserters that at Tethuroa they had seen Oreepyah = and=20 Moannah, who had made an attempt to secure them. They said it was their=20 intention to have returned to the ship; and it is probable that they = were so=20 much harassed by the natives watching for an opportunity to surprise = them that=20 they might wish to have the merit of returning of their own accord, to = avoid the=20 disgrace of being seized and brought back. At the time they delivered = themselves=20 up to me it was not in their power to have made resistance, their = ammunition=20 having been spoiled by the wet.

In consequence of my having been kept all night from the ship by the=20 tempestuous weather the timekeeper went down at 10 hours 5 minutes 36 = seconds.=20 Its rate previous to this was 1 second, 7 losing in 24 hours, and its = error from=20 the mean time at Greenwich was 7 minutes 29 seconds, 2 too slow. I set = it going=20 again by a common watch, corrected by observations, and endeavoured to = make the=20 error the same as if it had not stopped; but being over cautious made me = tedious=20 in setting it in motion, and increased the error from mean time at = Greenwich.=20 The rate of going I did not find to have altered.

At dinner Tinah congratulated me on having recovered my men, but = expressed=20 some concern that they had not been brought by Oreepyah and Moannah, = lest I=20 should imagine they had not done everything in their power. To this I = replied=20 that I was perfectly satisfied of their good intentions to serve me, and = that I=20 considered myself under great obligations to them for the trouble they = had been=20 at on my account. I learnt afterwards that they had actually seized and = bound=20 the deserters but had been prevailed upon, by fair promises of their = returning=20 peaceably to the ship, to let them loose: the deserters however, finding = an=20 opportunity to get possession of their arms, again set the natives at=20 defiance.

Friday 30.

This afternoon I punished one of the seamen, Isaac Martin, with = nineteen=20 lashes for striking an Indian. This was a transgression of so serious a = nature=20 and such a direct violation of my orders that I would on no account be = prevailed=20 on to forgive it, though great intercession was made by some of the = chiefs.

Oreepyah and Moannah were not yet returned from Tethuroa. This place = is=20 resorted to by the principal people of this part of Otaheite at = particular=20 seasons when fish are in great plenty there. It was described to me to = be a=20 group of small keys surrounded by a reef: their produce is chiefly = coconuts and=20 plantains. During the season breadfruit and other provisions are daily = carried=20 over from Otaheite. Not less than a hundred sail of canoes were at = Tethuroa when=20 our deserters were there.

Teppahoo and his wife were become my constant visitors: he had for = some time=20 past been ill, and had made Oparre his place of residence for the = benefit of our=20 surgeon's advice and assistance. At this time he complained of a = hoarseness and=20 sore throat. Mr. Ledward, on examining him, discovered there had been = two holes=20 in the roof of his mouth which, though healed, had the appearance of = having been=20 large: the adjacent parts appeared sound, yet the surgeon was of opinion = that=20 they were cancerous and would in the end occasion his death.

Saturday 31.

This morning I ordered all the chests to be taken on shore, and the = inside of=20 the ship to be washed with boiling water to kill the cockroaches. We = were=20 constantly obliged to be at great pains to keep the ship clear of vermin = on=20 account of the plants. By the help of traps and good cats we were freed = from=20 rats and mice. When I was at Otaheite with Captain Cook there were great = numbers=20 of rats about all the houses, and so tame that they flocked round the = people at=20 their meals for the offals which were commonly thrown to them; but at = this time=20 we scarce ever saw a rat which must be attributed to the industry of a = breed of=20 cats left here by European ships.

After breakfast I walked with Tinah to Matavai to see the cattle and = the=20 gardens. Tinah had already taken so large a dose of the Ava that he was=20 perfectly stupefied. Iddeah however was with us, and she is one of the = most=20 intelligent persons I met with at Otaheite. We went first to Poeeno's = house and=20 saw the bull and cow together in a very fine pasture. I was informed = that the=20 cow had taken the bull; so that if no untoward accident happens there is = a fair=20 chance of the breed being established. In the garden near Poeeno's house = many=20 things had failed. The Indian corn was in a fine state and I have no = doubt but=20 they will cultivate it all over the country. A fig-tree was in a very = thriving=20 way, as were two vines, a pineapple plant, and some slips of a = shaddock-tree.=20 From this place we walked to the garden at Point Venus, but I had the=20 mortification to find almost everything there destroyed by the hogs. = Some=20 underground peas and Indian corn had escaped, and likewise the caliloo = green and=20 ocra of Jamaica.

We returned to the ship, and after dinner I was not a little = surprised to=20 hear Tinah seriously propose that he and his wife should go with me to = England.=20 He said he would only take two servants; that he much wished to see King = George=20 who he was sure would be glad to see him. Tinah and many of his = countrymen were=20 become extremely eager to get a knowledge of other countries, and were=20 continually enquiring about the situations of the islands which we told = them of=20 in these seas. To quiet his importunity I was obliged to promise that I = would=20 ask the king's permission to carry them to England if I came again; that = then I=20 should be in a larger ship an could have accommodations properly fitted = up. I=20 was sorry to find that Tinah was apprehensive he should be attacked by = his=20 enemies as soon as our ship left Otaheite, and that if they joined they = would be=20 too powerful for him. The illness of Teppahoo, with whom he was on good = terms,=20 gave him much uneasiness, Teppahoo's wife being a sister of Otow's and = aunt to=20 Tinah. They have no children as has been before related, and if Teppahoo = were to=20 die he would be succeeded as Earee of the district of Tettaha by his = brother who=20 is an enemy to Tinah. I have on every occasion endeavoured to make the = principal=20 people believe that we should return again to Otaheite and that we = should=20 revenge any injury done in our absence to the people of Matavai and = Oparre.

The wife of Oedidee is likewise an aunt to Tinah, and sister to Otow. = His=20 native place is Ulietea, where he has some property, but which I imagine = is not=20 of such consequence to him as the countenance of the chiefs with whom he = is=20 connected at Otaheite.

CHAPTER 10.

The Ship's Cable cut in the Night.
Coolness with the = Chiefs=20 on that Account.
Visit to an old Lady.
Disturbance at a=20 Heiva.
Tinah's Hospitality.
A Thief taken and = punished.
Preparations=20 for sailing.

1789. February. Tuesday 3.

I was present this afternoon at a wrestling match where a young man, = by an=20 unlucky fall, put his arm out of joint at the elbow: three stout men = immediately=20 took hold of him and, two of them fixing their feet against his ribs, = replaced=20 it. I had sent for our surgeon but before he arrived all was well, = except a=20 small swelling of the muscles in consequence of the strain. I enquired = what they=20 would have done if the bone had been broken and, to show me their = practice, they=20 got a number of sticks and placed round a man's arm, which they bound = with cord.=20 That they have considerable skill in surgery is not to be doubted. I = have before=20 mentioned an instance of an amputated arm being perfectly healed and = which had=20 every appearance of having been treated with great propriety.

The part of the beach nearest the ship was become the general place = of resort=20 towards the close of the day. An hour before sunset the inhabitants = began to=20 collect, and here they amused themselves with exercising the lance, = dancing, and=20 various kinds of merriment, till nearly dark, when they retired to their = homes.=20 Of this cheerful scene we were spectators and partakers every fine = evening.

Friday 6.

An occurrence happened today that gave me great concern, not only on = account=20 of the danger with which the ship had been threatened, but as it tended = greatly=20 to diminish the confidence and good understanding which had hitherto = been=20 constantly preserved between us and the natives. The wind had blown = fresh in the=20 night, and at daylight we discovered that the cable by which the ship = rode had=20 been cut near the water's edge in such a manner that only one strand = remained=20 whole. While we were securing the ship Tinah came on board. I could not = but=20 believe he was perfectly innocent of the transaction; nevertheless I = spoke to=20 him in a very peremptory manner, and insisted upon his discovering and = bringing=20 to me the offender. I was wholly at a loss how to account for this = malicious=20 act. My suspicions fell chiefly, I may say wholly, on the strangers that = came to=20 us from other parts of the island; for we had on every occasion received = such=20 unreserved and unaffected marks of goodwill from the people of Matavai = and=20 Oparre that in my own mind I entirely acquitted them. The anger which I=20 expressed however created so much alarm that old Otow and his wife (the = father=20 and mother of Tinah) immediately quitted Oparre, and retired to the = mountains in=20 the midst of heavy rain, as did Teppahoo and his family. Tinah and = Iddeah=20 remained and expostulated with me on the unreasonableness of my anger = against=20 them. He said that he would exert his utmost endeavours to discover the = guilty=20 person, but it might possibly not be in his power to get him delivered = up, which=20 would be the case if he was either of Tiarraboo, Attahooroo, or of the = island=20 Eimeo. That the attempt might have been made as much out of enmity to = the people=20 of Matavai and Oparre as to me, everyone knowing the regard I had for = them, and=20 that I had declared I would protect them against their enemies. All this = I was=20 inclined to believe, but I did not think proper to appear perfectly = satisfied=20 lest Tinah, who was naturally very indolent, should be remiss in his = endeavours=20 to detect the offender. To guard as much as possible against future = attempts of=20 this kind I directed a stage to be built on the forecastle so that the = cables=20 should be more directly under the eye of the sentinel; and I likewise = gave=20 orders that one of the midshipman should keep watch forward.

In the afternoon Oreepyah returned from Tethuroa. He told me that = Moannah and=20 himself had narrowly escaped being lost in the bad weather and that = Moannah had=20 been obliged to take shelter at Eimeo. Several canoes had been lost = lately in=20 their passage to or from Tethuroa. The oversetting of their canoes is = not the=20 only risk they have to encounter, but is productive of another danger = more=20 dreadful; for at such times many become a prey to the sharks which are = very=20 numerous in these seas. I was informed likewise that they were sometimes = attacked by a fish which by their description I imagine to be the = barracoota, as=20 they attribute to it the same propensity.

Saturday passed without my seeing anything of Tinah the whole = day.

Sunday 8.

The next morning he and Iddeah came to me and assured me that they = had made=20 the strictest enquiries concerning the injury intended us but had not = been able=20 to discover any circumstance which could lead them to suspect who were = concerned=20 in it. This was not at all satisfactory and I behaved towards them with = great=20 coolness, at which they were much distressed, and Iddeah at length gave = vent to=20 her sorrow by tears. I could no longer keep up the appearance of = mistrusting=20 them, but I earnestly recommended to them, as they valued the King of = England's=20 friendship, that they would exert their utmost endeavours to find out = the=20 offenders, which they faithfully promised. Our reconciliation = accordingly took=20 place and messengers were sent to acquaint Otow and Teppahoo, and to = invite them=20 to return.

It has since occurred to me that this attempt to cut the ship adrift = was most=20 probably the act of some of our own people; whose purpose of remaining = at=20 Otaheite might have been effectually answered without danger if the ship = had=20 been driven on shore. At the time I entertained not the least thought of = this=20 kind, nor did the possibility of it enter into my ideas, having no = suspicion=20 that so general an inclination or so strong an attachment to these = islands could=20 prevail among my people as to induce them to abandon every prospect of = returning=20 to their native country.

A messenger came to me this afternoon from the Earee of Tiarrabou, = the=20 south-east division of Otaheite, with an invitation for me to visit him. = I=20 excused myself on account of the distance and, at Tinah's request, sent = back by=20 the messenger a handsome present which I hope Tinah will get the credit = of. I=20 observed with much satisfaction that a great part of what Tinah had = received=20 from me he had distributed; to some out of friendship and esteem, and to = others=20 from motives of political civility.

Tuesday 10.

Teppahoo and his family left us today to go to Tettaha, where a grand = heiva=20 was to be performed, at which their presence was required.

Wednesday 11.

A small party of heiva people passed through Oparre this morning in = their way=20 to Tettaha, where they were going by appointment. They had the civility = to send=20 me word that if I chose they would stay to perform a short heiva before = me; and=20 I immediately attended. It began by a dance of two young girls to the = music of=20 drums and flutes which lasted no long time; at the conclusion they = suddenly=20 dropped all their dress, which was left as a present for me, and went = off=20 without my seeing them any more. After this the men danced: their = performance=20 was more indecent than any I had before seen, but was not the less = applauded on=20 that account by the natives, who seemed much delighted.

After this entertainment I went with Tinah and Iddeah to pay a visit = to an=20 old lady named Wanowoora, widow to Towah the late Earee of Tettaha, who=20 conducted the expedition against Eimeo when Captain Cook was here in = 1777. The=20 old lady had just landed and we found her sitting on the beach by the = head of=20 her canoe. With Tinah was a priest and three men, who carried a young = dog, a=20 fowl, and two young plantain boughs: these were intended for the = offering, or=20 present, called Otee. Tinah and his party seated themselves at about ten = yards=20 distance from Wanowoora and were addressed by her in short sentences for = a few=20 minutes, and received her Otee, which was exactly the same as his. = Tinah's=20 priest in return made a short prayer and his offering was presented to = the old=20 lady. Tinah then rose and went to her, and embraced her in a very = affectionate=20 manner; and she returned his kindness with tears and many expressions = which I=20 could not understand. Soon after he conducted her to a shed and we = remained with=20 her till it was time to go on board to dinner. I invited her to be of = the party=20 but she excused herself on account of age and infirmity. Tinah gave = directions=20 for her and her attendants to be supplied with whatever they had = occasion for,=20 and we went off to the ship.

Friday 13.

This forenoon Tinah sent to inform me that many strangers were = arrived from=20 all parts to be present at a grand heiva which he had prepared in = compliment to=20 me. I accordingly went on shore and found a great crowd of people = collected=20 together. A ring was made at a little distance from our post, and Tinah = and=20 several other chiefs came to meet me. When we were all seated the heiva = began by=20 women dancing; after which a present of cloth and a tawme or breastplate = was=20 laid before me. This ceremony being over the men began to wrestle and = regularity=20 was no longer preserved. Old Otow came to me and desired I would help to = put a=20 stop to the wrestling as the people came from different districts, some = of which=20 were ill disposed towards others. What Otow had apprehended was not = without=20 reason for in an instant the whole was tumult: every man took to his = arms and,=20 as I found my single interference could be of no service, I retired to = our post=20 and ordered all my people there under arms. At the time the disturbance = began=20 Tinah and Iddeah were absent: their first care was for me, and Iddeah = came to=20 see if I was safe at the post. She had a double covering of cloth round = her and=20 her waist was girded with a large rope. I desired her to stay under my=20 protection: this she would not consent to but said she would return as = soon as=20 all was over; and away she went.

I immediately gave orders for two guns to be fired from the ship = without=20 shot, which had a good effect: and as no chief was concerned in the = tumult but,=20 on the contrary, all of them exerted their influence to prevent = mischief,=20 everything was soon quiet and Tinah and Iddeah returned to let me know = that all=20 was settled. They went on board with some other chiefs and dined with = me.

After dinner I went on shore with Tinah and his friends, and I found = three=20 large hogs dressed, and a quantity of breadfruit which he had ordered to = be=20 prepared before he went on board, and now desired I would present them = to the=20 different parties that had come to see the entertainment: one to the = chief=20 people of Attahooroo, one to the Arreoys, and a third to the performers = of the=20 heiva. I presented them according to his directions and they were = received with=20 thankfulness and pleasure. This I looked upon as very handsomely done on = the=20 part of Tinah, and I was glad to see that it was regarded in the same = light by=20 his guests. These instances of liberality make full amends for the = little slips=20 which I have formerly noticed in Tinah. At this time a day seldom passed = that he=20 did not give proofs of his hospitality by entertaining the principal = people that=20 came from different parts of the island to visit him, or to see the = ship. Some=20 of the chiefs he commonly invited to dine on board, and made provision = for=20 others on shore. Scarce any person of consequence went away without = receiving=20 some present from him. This I encouraged and was glad it was in my power = to=20 assist him. But besides the political motives that I have alluded to it = would be=20 unjust to Tinah not to acknowledge that his disposition seemed improved: = he was=20 more open and unreserved in his manners than formerly, and his = hospitality was=20 natural and without ostentation.

Monday 16.

I was present this afternoon at a wrestling match by women. The = manner of=20 challenging and method of attack was exactly the same as among the men. = The only=20 difference that I could observe was not in favour of the softer sex; for = in=20 these contests they showed less temper and more animosity than I could = have=20 imagined them capable of. The women, I was told, not only wrestle with = each=20 other but sometimes with the men; of this I have never seen an instance = and=20 imagine it can happen but seldom, as the women in general are small and = by no=20 means masculine. Iddeah is said to be very famous at this exercise.

Tuesday 17.

I walked with Tinah towards the hills to see his country residence = which was=20 at a very neat house, pleasantly situated and surrounded with = plantations. From=20 this place we saw the island Tethuroa. The next morning I went to = Matavai to=20 look after the Indian corn which I judged would be full ripe for = gathering; but=20 on my arrival I found that the natives had been beforehand with me, the = whole=20 being taken away. This I was not at all sorry for as it shows that they = value it=20 too much to neglect cultivating it.

Monday 23.

Iddeah sent on board for our dinners today a very fine tarro pudding; = and=20 Tinah brought a bunch of bananas that weighed 81 pounds, on which were = 286 fine=20 fruit: ten had broken off in the carriage. The tarro pudding is = excellent eating=20 and easily made: I shall describe this piece of cookery as the knowledge = of it=20 may be useful in the West Indies. The tarro being cleared of the outside = skin is=20 grated down, and made up in rolls of about half a pound each, which they = cover=20 neatly with leaves and bake for near half an hour. An equal quantity of = ripe=20 coconut meat is likewise grated, from which through a strainer the rich = milky=20 juice is expressed. This juice is heated by putting smooth hot stones in = the=20 vessel that contains it, and the tarro is then mixed with it and kept = constantly=20 stirring to prevent burning till it is ready, which is known by the = coconut=20 juice turning to a clear oil.

Wednesday 25.

Iddeah was very uneasy today on account of her youngest child being = ill. She=20 would not accept of assistance from our surgeon but said she had sent to = Tettaha=20 for a man who she expected would come and tell her what to do. These = physical=20 people are called tata rapaow.

Thursday 26.

This morning a man died of a consumption about two miles from our = post. I was=20 informed of it by Mr. Peckover, the gunner, who I had desired to look = out for=20 such a circumstance. I therefore went accompanied by Iddeah in hopes of = seeing=20 the funeral ceremony; but before we arrived the body was removed to the=20 Toopapow. It lay bare except a piece of cloth round the loins and = another round=20 the neck: the eyes were closed: the hands were placed, one over the pit = of the=20 stomach and the other upon his breast. On a finger of each hand was a = ring made=20 of plaited fibres of the coconut-tree, with a small bunch of red = feathers. Under=20 the Toopapow a hole was dug, in which at the end of a month the corpse = was to be=20 buried. The deceased was of the lower class; the Toopapow however was = neat, and=20 offerings of coconuts and plaited leaves lay on the ground.

The dead are sometimes brought to the Toopapow in wood coffins, which = are not=20 shaped like ours but are simply a long box. This custom Iddeah informed = me they=20 learnt from the Europeans, and is not very common, as making plank is a = work of=20 great labour.

March. Monday 2.

When I landed this morning I found the inhabitants that lived near to = us had=20 left their houses and retired towards the mountains; and was informed = that in=20 the night a water cask, part of an azimuth compass, and Mr. Peckover's = bedding,=20 had been stolen from the post on shore; the knowledge of which had = caused a=20 general alarm. I sent a message to complain of this theft to Tinah who = did not=20 come near me. About two hours elapsed, during which time I went on board = to=20 breakfast and returned when I saw Tinah and Oreepyah with a number of = people at=20 a house at some distance; and soon after they all marched to the = eastward,=20 passing close by our post. Oedidee, who was with me, told me that they = had=20 intelligence of the thief, and were gone in quest of him: and in less = than an=20 hour news was brought that they had taken him. Shortly after the whole = party=20 appeared with the water-cask and compass. Tinah had hold of the thief by = the arm=20 and, showing him to me, desired that I would kill him. The bedding, he = said, he=20 had not heard of, but would go in search of it. I applauded him for the = pains he=20 had taken in this business, and explained with some success the = injustice of=20 stealing from us: that if any of our people committed the least offence = against=20 them it did not pass unnoticed; and that friendship required on their = part that=20 those who injured us should not be protected by them. Tinah stopped me = from=20 saying more by embracing me and the whole crowd cried out Tyo myty (i.e. = good=20 friend). Tinah then left me to enquire after the bedding, and I sent the = offender on board, whom I punished with a severe flogging. I was glad to = find=20 this man was not of Oparre or Matavai.

The fine fruit called Avee was just coming into season: it was = likewise in=20 season at the time of our arrival in October. The breadfruit trees I = have no=20 doubt bear all the year round: we have seen a scarcity of breadfruit but = have=20 never been wholly without it. Some fern-root was shown to me which in = scarce=20 seasons is used by the natives as bread. It bears a long even-edged leaf = about=20 an inch wide; the taste somewhat resembled that of a yam. I was informed = by our=20 people that in their walks they saw in many places patches of Indian = corn just=20 making their appearance through the ground. This convinces me that the = corn=20 taken from Matavai could not have been better disposed of.

Goats are frequently offered for sale, but I rather discouraged the = buying of=20 them for fear of injuring the breed. The natives will not eat them, = neither will=20 they taste the milk, and ask with some appearance of disgust why we do = not milk=20 the sows? I endeavoured to prevail on Tinah and Iddeah to eat the goats = milk by=20 mixing it with fruit, but they would only try one spoonful.

We had begun to make preparations for sailing, and Tinah supplied us = with a=20 sufficient stock of wood by ordering trees to be brought down from the = country.=20 He had frequently expressed a wish that I would leave some firearms and=20 ammunition with him, as he expected to be attacked after the ship = sailed, and=20 perhaps chiefly on account of our partiality to him: I therefore thought = it but=20 reasonable to attend to his request, and I was the more readily = prevailed on as=20 he said his intentions were to act only on the defensive. This indeed = seems most=20 suited to his disposition, which is neither active nor enterprising. If = Tinah=20 had spirit in proportion to his size and strength he would probably be = the=20 greatest warrior in Otaheite: but courage is not the most conspicuous of = his=20 virtues. When I promised to leave with him a pair of pistols, which they = prefer=20 to muskets, he told me that Iddeah would fight with one and Oedidee with = the=20 other. Iddeah has learnt to load and fire a musket with great dexterity = and=20 Oedidee is an excellent marksman. It is not common for women in this = country to=20 go to war, but Iddeah is a very resolute woman, of a large make, and has = great=20 bodily strength.

Friday 6.

I sent Mr. Fryer the master to sound Taowne harbour. The knowledge = that we=20 intended shortly to sail having spread among the natives a great many = broken=20 iron tools were brought from all parts of the island to be repaired at = our=20 forge; and this morning a messenger arrived from Waheatua, the Earee of=20 Tiarraboo, with several pieces of Spanish iron which he desired to have = made=20 into small adzes. This request was of course complied with.

CHAPTER 11.

Arrival of an Arreoy Woman from Tethuroa.
A Present=20 delivered by Tinah for his Majesty.
Other Occurrences to the Time = of the=20 Ship's Departure from Otaheite.

1789. March.

From the 5th to the 14th of this month the wind blew constantly from = between=20 the north-west and south-west with a great deal of rain. This was the = longest=20 continuance of westerly winds without interruption that we experienced. = On the=20 13th several canoes arrived here and at Matavai from Tethuroa: in these = were a=20 large tribe of Arreoys, and among them Huheine Moyere, the wife of = Oreepyah, who=20 is an Arreoy woman, and remained at Tethuroa after Oreepyah came away. = On her=20 arrival a ceremony was performed called Hooepippee, which seemed to be = designed=20 as a public visit to all their friends, who are collected on the = occasion. In=20 this ceremony there was nothing remarkable: the Arreoy men took their=20 opportunity to plunder the women who were near them, and Iddeah made a = present=20 of some cloth to Huheine Moyere, and a baked hog to the Arreoys.

Friday 13.

After this ceremony a present was produced from many of the principal = people=20 for young Otoo, the Earee Rahie, which was received by Iddeah, Tinah = being=20 absent. This present consisted of five hogs, and forty-eight baskets = filled with=20 breadfruit, coconuts, tarro, and different kinds of puddings. The = baskets were=20 decorated with slips of cloth, stained with variety of colours and = carried by 24=20 men, each of whom had a pole on his shoulder, at each end of which was a = basket.

I have seldom spoken of Otoo who was too young to have any share in = the=20 management of affairs, and with whom we were not permitted to have any=20 intercourse, except speaking to him now and then across a river; at = which times=20 I did not neglect to send the children some little presents, so that = they always=20 rejoiced to see me. I might have been admitted to a nearer acquaintance = if I=20 would have gone with my shoulders uncovered, as his parents did, but = this I=20 declined. The children do not all live under the same roof, the two = sisters=20 eating and sleeping in a separate house, though at other times they are=20 generally together.

The island Tethuroa may very properly be compared to some of our=20 watering-places in England, producing a similar effect upon those who = visit it.=20 Many who went there covered with scurf returned plump and fair, and = scarce like=20 the same people. This alteration for the better is in a great measure to = be=20 attributed to the discontinuance of the Ava, which Tethuroa does not = produce:=20 the coconut trees, likewise, which supply them with their only beverage, = growing=20 on low sandy keys and having their roots below the level of the sea may = probably=20 have qualities different from the coconuts of Otaheite which, with a = plenty of=20 fish, that at other times they are not accustomed to, must no doubt = contribute=20 to the amendment described.

Saturday 14.

I was visited today by a very old man, an uncle to Tupia, the person = who went=20 from these islands in the Endeavour in the year 1769, and who died at = Batavia.=20 He appeared to be near 70 years old and was treated with much respect by = the=20 natives. He made several enquiries concerning his nephew and requested = that when=20 I came again I would bring his hair. At the time that Tinah mentioned to = me his=20 desire of visiting England I asked what account I could give to his = friends if=20 he should not live to return; to which he replied that I must cut off = his hair=20 and carry it to them and they would be perfectly satisfied.

Monday 16.

On the 16th I was informed that a stop was put to the sale of hogs in = the=20 district of Tettaha. Teppahoo, the Earee of that district, told me that = they had=20 very few hogs left there, and that it was necessary for a certain time = to=20 prohibit every person from killing or selling, that they might have time = to=20 breed. I did not think it reasonable to solicit any indulgence on this = head: my=20 friends at Matavai and Oparre promised to supply us as long as we = remained here,=20 though we had considerably thinned their stock. After our departure the = same=20 restriction was to take place in these districts, and it being delayed = on our=20 account certainly deserves to be regarded among their acts of friendship = towards=20 us.

As it was generally known that we were preparing to sail a number of = the=20 natives from other parts of the island were constantly with us, and = petty thefts=20 were committed whenever the negligence of our people afforded an = opportunity:=20 but no attempt of any consequence was made.

Thursday 19.

This evening Mr. Samwel my clerk returned from an excursion to the = mountains,=20 having been two days absent. He described the hills to be well clothed = with=20 wood, except the tops of the higher mountains which only produced bushes = and=20 fern. The birds he saw were blue parakeets and green doves, except one = which he=20 found burrowing in the ground and brought to me. This bird was about the = size of=20 a pigeon, and proved to be a white-bellied petrel of the same kind as = those seen=20 in high latitudes, which are called shearwaters. He likewise brought a = branch of=20 a plant like the New Zealand tea-plant, and which at Van Diemen's land = we had=20 made use of for brooms. From the hills he saw the islands Maitea and = Huaheine,=20 which are situated nearly in opposite directions from Otaheite and are = 70=20 leagues distant from each other.

Friday 27.

For some days past Tinah had been busied in getting two parais, or=20 mourning-dresses, made, which he intended as a present to King George. = Being=20 finished they were this morning hung up in his house as a public = exhibition, and=20 a long prayer made on the occasion, the substance of which was that the = King of=20 England might forever remain his friend and not forget him. When he = presented=20 the parais for me to take on board he could not refrain from shedding = tears.=20 During the short remainder of our stay here there appeared among the = natives an=20 evident degree of sorrow that we were so soon to leave them, which they = showed=20 by unusual kindness and attention.

We began this afternoon to remove the plants to the ship. They were = in=20 excellent order: the roots had appeared through the bottom of the pots = and would=20 have shot into the ground if care had not been taken to prevent it.

The weather was considerably altered for the better and the tradewind = appeared settled. The rainy and bad season of the year may be reckoned = to begin=20 towards the end of November and to continue till near the end of March. = During=20 this time the winds are variable and often westerly, though we seldom = found them=20 to blow strong in that direction. We likewise experienced frequent = intervals of=20 fine weather; but during these months so open a road as Matavai bay is = not a=20 safe anchoring-place for ships that intend remaining any length of time = at=20 Otaheite.

Tuesday 31.

Today all the plants were on board, being in 774 pots, 39 tubs, and = 24 boxes.=20 The number of breadfruit plants were 1015, besides which we had = collected a=20 number of other plants. The avee, which is one of the finest-flavoured = fruits in=20 the world. The ayyah, which is a fruit not so rich but of a fine flavour = and=20 very refreshing. The rattah, not much unlike a chestnut, which grows on = a large=20 tree in great quantities: they are singly in large pods from one to two = inches=20 broad, and may be eaten raw or boiled in the same manner as Windsor = beans, and=20 so dressed are equally good. The oraiah, which is a very superior kind = of=20 plantain. All these I was particularly recommended to collect by my = worthy=20 friend, Sir Joseph Banks. I had also taken on board some plants of the = ettow and=20 matte, with which the natives here make a beautiful red colour; and a = root=20 called peeah, of which they make an excellent pudding.

I now made my last presents to several of my friends with whom I had = been=20 most intimate, particularly to Teppahoo. Several people expressed great = desire=20 to go with us to England. Oedidee, who was always very much attached to = us, said=20 he considered it as his right, having formerly left his native place to = sail=20 with Captain Cook. Scarce any man belonging to the ship was without a = tyo, who=20 brought to him presents, chiefly of provisions for a sea store.

April. Friday 3.

Tinah and his wife, with his parents, brothers, and sister, dined = with me=20 today and, as I meant to sail early the next morning, they all remained = on board=20 for the night. The ship was crowded the whole day with the natives, and = we were=20 loaded with coconuts, plantains, breadfruit, hogs, and goats. In the = evening=20 there was no dancing or mirth on the beach such as we had been = accustomed to,=20 but all was silent.

Saturday 4.

At daylight we unmoored: the stock of the best bower anchor was so = much eaten=20 by the worms that it broke in stowing the anchor: the small bower had an = iron=20 stock, and in these voyages it is very necessary that ships should be = provided=20 with iron anchor stocks. At half-past six there being no wind we weighed = and,=20 with our boats and two sweeps, towed the ship out of the harbour. Soon = after the=20 sea breeze came, and we stood off towards the sea.

The outlet of Toahroah harbour being narrow I could permit only a few = of the=20 natives to be on board: many others however attended in canoes till the = breeze=20 came, when I was obliged to leave them. We stood off and on almost all = the=20 remainder of the day. Tinah and Iddeah pressed me very strongly to = anchor in=20 Matavai bay and stay one night longer but, as I had already taken leave = of most=20 of my friends, I thought it better to keep to my intention of sailing. = After=20 dinner I ordered the presents which I had preserved for Tinah and his = wife to be=20 put in one of the ship's boats, and as I had promised him firearms I = gave him=20 two muskets, a pair of pistols, and a good stock of ammunition. I then=20 represented to them the necessity of their going away, that the boat = might=20 return to the ship before it was dark, on which they took a most = affectionate=20 leave of me and went into the boat. One of their expressions at parting = was=20 "Yourah no t' Eatua tee eveerah." "May the Eatua protect you, for ever = and=20 ever."

All the time we remained at Otaheite the picture of Captain Cook, at = the=20 desire of Tinah, was kept on board the ship. On delivering it to him I = wrote on=20 the back the time of the ship's arrival and departure, with an account = of the=20 number of plants on board.

Tinah had desired that I would salute him at his departure with the = great=20 guns, which I could not comply with for fear of disturbing the plants; = but as a=20 parting token of our regard we manned ship with all hands and gave him = three=20 cheers. At sunset the boat returned and we made sail, bidding farewell = to=20 Otaheite where for twenty-three weeks we had been treated with the = utmost=20 affection and regard, and which seemed to increase in proportion to our = stay.=20 That we were not insensible to their kindness the events which followed = more=20 than sufficiently proves: for to the friendly and endearing behaviour of = these=20 people may be ascribed the motives for that event which effected the = ruin of an=20 expedition that there was every reason to hope would have been completed = in the=20 most fortunate manner.

To enter into a description of the island or its inhabitants I look = upon as=20 superfluous. From the accounts of former voyages and the facts which I = have=20 related the character of the people will appear in as true a light as by = any=20 description in my power to give. The length of time that we remained at=20 Otaheite, with the advantage of having been there before, gave me = opportunities=20 of making perhaps a more perfect vocabulary of the language than has yet = appeared; but I have chosen to defer it for the present as there is a=20 probability that I may hereafter be better qualified for such a = task.

We left Otaheite with only two patients in the venereal list, which = shows=20 that the disease has not gained ground. The natives say that it is of = little=20 consequence, and we saw several instances of people that had been = infected who,=20 after absenting themselves for 15 or 20 days, made their appearance = again=20 without any visible symptom remaining of the disease. Their method of = cure I am=20 unacquainted with; but their customary diet and mode of living must = contribute=20 towards it. We saw a great many people however with scrofulous habits = and bad=20 sores: these they denied to be produced from any venereal cause; and our = surgeon=20 was of the same opinion.

The result of the mean of 50 sets of lunar observations taken by me = on shore=20 gives for the Longitude of Point Venus 210 degrees 33 minutes 57 seconds = east.

Captain Cook in 1769 places it in 210 degrees 27 minutes 30 seconds = east.

In 1777, his last voyage, 210 degrees 22 minutes 28 seconds east.

The tide in Toahroah harbour was very inconsiderable and not regular. = The=20 greatest rise that I observed was 11 inches; but what was most singular = the time=20 of high-water did not appear to be governed by the moon, it being at the = highest=20 every day between noon and two o'clock. The variable winds and weather = at this=20 time of the year has no doubt an influence on the tides: on some days = scarce any=20 rise was perceptible.

CHAPTER 12.

At the Island Huaheine.
A Friend of Omai visits the=20 Ship.
Leave the Society Islands.
A Water-spout.
The Island=20 Whytootackee discovered.
Anchor in Annamooka Road.
Our Parties = on Shore=20 robbed by the Natives.
Sail from Annamooka.
The Chiefs detained = on=20 board.
Part friendly.

1789. April. Sunday 5.

We steered towards the island Huaheine, which we got sight of the = next=20 morning. At noon we brought to near the entrance of Owharre harbour, it = not=20 being my intention to anchor. We could see every part of the harbour = distinctly,=20 but my attention was particularly directed to the spot where Omai's = house had=20 stood, no part of which was now visible. It was near three o'clock = before any=20 canoes came off to us, for the people on shore imagined that the ship = was coming=20 into the harbour. The first that arrived had three men in it, who = brought a few=20 coconuts. I enquired about the chief or Earee Rahie; and one of the = fellows with=20 great gravity said he was the Earee Rahie, and that he had come to = desire I=20 would bring the ship into the harbour. I could not help laughing at his=20 impudence: however I gave him a few nails for his coconuts and he left = us.=20 Immediately after a double canoe in which were ten men came alongside; = among=20 them was a young man who recollected and called me by my name. Several = other=20 canoes arrived with hogs, yams, and other provisions, which we = purchased. My=20 acquaintance told me that he had lived with our friend Omai. He = confirmed the=20 account that had already been given and informed me that of all the = animals=20 which had been left with Omai the mare only remained alive. He said that = Omai=20 and himself had often rode together, and I observed that many of the = islanders=20 who came on board had the representation of a man on horseback tattooed = on their=20 legs. After the death of Omai his house was broken to pieces and the = materials=20 stolen. The firearms were at Ulietea but useless. I enquired after the = seeds and=20 plants and was informed that they were all destroyed except one tree, = but of=20 what kind that was I could not make out from their description. I was = much=20 pressed to take the ship into the harbour, and Omai's companion = requested me to=20 let him go to England. When they found that I would not stop among them = they=20 seemed jealous of our going to Ulietea, and it appeared to give them = some=20 satisfaction when I told them that I should not go near that island.

The canoes had left us and we were making sail when we discovered an = Indian=20 in the water swimming towards the shore, which in all probability he = would not=20 have been able to reach. We took him up and luckily another canoe coming = alongside we put him in her. The people of the canoe said that the man = was=20 insane, but how he came to be swimming so far from the land we could not = conjecture. At six o'clock we made sail and ran all night to the = south-west and=20 south-west by south, between the islands Huaheine and Ulietea. The next = morning=20 I altered the course, steering more to the westward for the Friendly=20 Islands.

Thursday 9.

On the 9th at nine o'clock in the morning the weather became squally = and a=20 body of thick black clouds collected in the east. Soon after a = water-spout was=20 seen at no great distance from us, which appeared to great advantage = from the=20 darkness of the clouds behind it. As nearly as I could judge it was = about two=20 feet diameter at the upper part, and about eight inches at the lower. I = had=20 scarce made these remarks when I observed that it was advancing rapidly = towards=20 the ship. We immediately altered our course and took in all the sails = except the=20 foresail, soon after which it passed within ten yards of our stern, = making a=20 rustling noise but without our feeling the least effect from its being = so near=20 us. The rate at which it travelled I judged to be about ten miles per = hour going=20 towards the west in the direction of the wind. In a quarter of an hour = after=20 passing us it dispersed. I never was so near a water-spout before: the=20 connection between the column, which was higher than our mastheads, and = the=20 water below was no otherwise visible than by the sea being disturbed in = a=20 circular space of about six yards in diameter, the centre of which, from = the=20 whirling of the water round it, formed a hollow; and from the outer part = of the=20 circle the water was thrown up with much force in a spiral direction, = and could=20 be traced to the height of fifteen or twenty feet. At this elevation we = lost=20 sight of it and could see nothing of its junction with the column above. = It is=20 impossible to say what injury we should have suffered if it had passed = directly=20 over us. Masts I imagine might have been carried away, but I do not = apprehend it=20 would have endangered the loss of a ship.

Saturday 11.

As we sailed very near the track made in former voyages I had little = reason=20 to expect that we should at this time make any new discovery: = nevertheless on=20 the 11th at daylight land was seen to the south-south-west at about five = leagues=20 distance, which appeared to be an island of a moderate height. On the = north part=20 was a round hill: the north-west part was highest and steep: the = south-east part=20 sloped off to a low point.

The wind had been westerly since the preceding noon, and at the time = we saw=20 the land the ship was standing to the north-west. At six we tacked to = the=20 southward, and as we advanced in that direction discovered a number of = low keys,=20 of which at noon we counted nine: they were all covered with trees. The = large=20 island first seen had a most fruitful appearance, its shore being = bordered with=20 flat land, on which grew innumerable coconut and other trees; and the = higher=20 grounds beautifully interspersed with lawns. The wind being light and=20 unfavourable we endeavoured all day but without success to get near the = land. In=20 the night we had a heavy squall which obliged us to clew up all our = sails and=20 soon after it fell calm.

Sunday 12.

The winds were light and variable all day with calms. At two in the = afternoon=20 we were within three miles of the southernmost key and could see a = number of=20 people within the reefs. Shortly after a canoe, in which were four men, = paddled=20 off to us and came alongside without showing any signs of apprehension = or=20 surprise. I gave them a few beads and they came into the ship. One man, = who=20 seemed to have an ascendancy over the others, looked about the ship with = some=20 appearance of curiosity, but none of them would venture to go below. = They asked=20 for some boiled fresh pork which they saw in a bowl belonging to one of = the=20 seaman, and it was given them to eat with boiled plantains. Being told = that I=20 was the Earee or chief of the ship the principal person came and joined = noses=20 with me, and presented to me a large mother of pearl shell, which hung = with=20 plaited hair round his neck; this he fastened round my neck with signs = of great=20 satisfaction.

They spoke the same language as at Otaheite, with very little = variation as=20 far as I could judge. In a small vocabulary that I made whilst = conversing with=20 these men only four words out of twenty-four differed from the Otaheite. = The=20 name of the large island they told me was Wytootackee, and the Earee was = called=20 Lomakkayah. They said that there were no hogs, dogs, or goats upon the = island,=20 nor had they yams, or tarro; but that plantains, coconuts, fowls, = breadfruit,=20 and avees, were there in great abundance. Notwithstanding they said that = no hogs=20 were on the island it was evident they had seen such animals; for they = called=20 them by the same name as is given to them at Otaheite, which made me = suspect=20 that they were deceiving me. However I ordered a young boar and sow to = be put=20 into their canoe with some yams and tarro, as we could afford to part = with some=20 of these articles. I also gave to each of them a knife, a small adze, = some=20 nails, beads, and a looking-glass. The latter they examined with great=20 curiosity; but with the ironwork they appeared to be acquainted; calling = it=20 aouree, which is the common name for iron among the islands where it is=20 known.

As they were preparing to leave us the chief of the canoe took = possession of=20 everything that I had given to the others. One of them showed some signs = of=20 dissatisfaction, but after a little altercation they joined noses and = were=20 reconciled. I now thought they were going to leave the ship, but only = two of=20 them went into the canoe, the other two purposing to stay all night with = us and=20 to have the canoe return for them in the morning. I would have treated = their=20 confidence with the regard it merited but it was impossible to say how = far the=20 ship might be driven from the island in the night. This I explained to = them and=20 they reluctantly consented to leave us. They were very solicitous that = somebody=20 from the ship should go on shore with them, and just before they quitted = us they=20 gave me a wooden spear which was the only thing, the paddles excepted, = they had=20 brought with them in the canoe. It was a common longstaff pointed with = the toa=20 wood.

The island of Wytootackee is about ten miles in circuit; its latitude = from 18=20 degrees 50 minutes to 18 degrees 54 minutes south, and longitude 200 = degrees 19=20 minutes east. A group of small keys, eight in number, lie to the = south-east,=20 four or five miles distant from Wytootackee and a single one to the=20 west-south-west; the southernmost of the group is in latitude 18 degrees = 58=20 minutes south. Variation of the compass 8 degrees 14 minutes east.

The people that came off to us did not differ in appearance from the = natives=20 of Hervey's Islands, seen in Captain Cook's last voyage, though much = more=20 friendly and inoffensive in their manners. They were tattooed across the = arms=20 and legs, but not on the loins or posteriors, like the people of = Otaheite. From=20 their knowledge of iron they have doubtless communication with Hervey's = Islands,=20 which are not more than eighteen leagues distant from them.

In the night a breeze sprang up from the south and we continued our = course to=20 the westward.

Saturday 18.

On the 18th at sunset we saw Savage Island, and in the night passed = by to the=20 southward of it.

Tuesday 21.

At eleven o'clock in the forenoon of the 21st we saw the island Caow = from the=20 masthead, bearing north-west by west three-quarters west. This island is = a high=20 mountain with a sharp-pointed top, and is the north-westernmost of all = the=20 Friendly Islands. At noon we saw it very distinctly from the deck, it = being then=20 nineteen leagues distant from us.

Thursday 23.

The wind being to the southward we could not fetch Annamooka, at = which island=20 I intended to stop, before the evening of the 23rd, when we anchored in = the road=20 in twenty-three fathoms, the extremes of Annamooka bearing east by north = and=20 south by east, our distance from the shore being half a league. In the = middle of=20 the day a canoe had come off to us from the island Mango in which was a = chief=20 named Latoomy-lange, who dined with me. Immediately on our anchoring = several=20 canoes came alongside with yams and coconuts, but none of the natives = offered to=20 come on board without first asking permission. As yet I had seen no = person with=20 whom I could recollect to have been formerly acquainted. I made = enquiries after=20 some of our old friends, particularly the chiefs, but I found myself not = sufficiently master of the language to obtain the information I = wanted.

Friday 24.

Our station being inconvenient for watering at daylight we weighed, = and=20 worked more to the eastward where we anchored in twenty-one fathoms; the = extremes of Annamooka bearing north 85 degrees east and south 33 degrees = west;=20 the Sandy bay south 73 degrees east; our distance from the shore half a = league.=20 Sounded all round the ship and found the ground to be a coarse coral = bottom, but=20 with even soundings.

By this time some large sailing canoes were arrived from different = islands in=20 the neighbourhood of Annamooka; and an old lame man named Tepa, whom I = had known=20 in 1777 and immediately recollected, came on board. Two other chiefs = whose names=20 were Noocaboo and Kunocappo were with him. Tepa having formerly been = accustomed=20 to our manner of speaking their language I found I could converse with = him=20 tolerably well. He informed me that Poulaho, Feenow, and Tubow, were = alive and=20 at Tongataboo, and that they would come hither as soon as they heard of = our=20 arrival, of which he promised to send them immediate notice. He said = that the=20 cattle which we had left at Tongataboo had all bred, and that the old = ones were=20 yet living. He enquired after several people who were here with Captain = Cook.=20 Being desirous to see the ship I took him and his companions below and = showed=20 them the breadfruit and other plants, at seeing which they were greatly=20 surprised. I made each of them a present, and when they had satisfied = their=20 curiosity I invited them to go on shore with me in the ship's boat.

I took Nelson with me to procure some breadfruit plants, one of our = stock=20 being dead and two or three others a little sickly. When we landed there = were=20 about two hundred people on the beach, most of them women and children. = Tepa=20 showed me a large boat-house which he told me we might make use of, = thinking we=20 should have a party on shore as our ships had formerly. I went with him = in=20 search of water but could find no better place than where Captain Cook = had=20 watered, which is a quarter of a mile inland from the east end of the = beach. I=20 next walked to the west point of the bay where some plants and seeds had = been=20 sown by Captain Cook; and had the satisfaction to see in a plantation = close by=20 about twenty fine pineapple plants but no fruit, this not being the = proper=20 season. They told me that they had eaten many of them, that they were = fine and=20 large, and that at Tongataboo there were great numbers.

When I returned to the landing-place I was desired to sit down and a = present=20 was brought me which consisted of some bundles of coconuts only. This = fell short=20 of my expectations; however I appeared satisfied and distributed beads = and=20 trinkets to the women and children near me.

Numerous were the marks of mourning with which these people disfigure = themselves, such as bloody temples, their heads deprived of most of the = hair,=20 and what was worse almost all of them with the loss of some of their = fingers.=20 Several fine boys, not above six years old, had lost both their little = fingers;=20 and some of the men besides these had parted with the middle finger of = the right=20 hand.

The chiefs went off with me to dinner, and I found a brisk trade = carrying on=20 at the ship for yams; some plantains and breadfruit were likewise = brought on=20 board but no hogs. In the afternoon more sailing canoes arrived, some of = which=20 contained not less than ninety passengers. We purchased eight hogs, some = dogs,=20 fowls, and shaddocks. Yams were in great abundance, very fine and large; = one yam=20 weighed above forty-five pounds. Among the people that came this = afternoon were=20 two of the name of Tubow, which is a family of the first distinction = among the=20 Friendly Islands; one of them was chief of the island Lefooga; with him = and Tepa=20 I went on shore to see the wooding place. I found a variety of sizable = trees but=20 the kind which I principally pitched upon was the Barringtonia of = Forster. I=20 acquainted Tepa with my intention of sending people to cut wood, which = meeting=20 with his approbation, we parted.

Saturday 25.

On the 25th at daylight the wooding and watering parties went on = shore. I had=20 directed them not to cut the kind of tree* which, when Captain Cook = wooded here=20 in 1777, blinded for a time many of the woodcutters. They had not been = an hour=20 on shore before one man had an axe stolen from him and another an adze. = Tepa was=20 applied to, who got the axe restored but the adze was not recovered. In = the=20 evening we completed wooding.

(*Footnote. Excoecaria agallocha Linn. Sp. Pl. Called in the = Malay=20 language caju mata boota, which signifies the the tree that wounds the = eyes.)

Sunday 26.

In the morning Nelson went on shore to get a few plants but, no = principal=20 chief being among the people, he was insulted, and a spade taken from = him. A=20 boat's grapnel was likewise stolen from the watering party. Tepa = recovered the=20 spade for us, but the crowd of natives was become so great, by the = number of=20 canoes that had arrived from different islands, that it was impossible = to do=20 anything where there was such a multitude of people without a chief of=20 sufficient authority to command the whole. I therefore ordered the = watering=20 party to go on board and determined to sail, for I could not discover = that any=20 canoe had been sent to acquaint the chiefs of Tongataboo of our being = here. For=20 some time after the thefts were committed the chiefs kept away, but = before noon=20 they came on board.

At noon we unmoored, and at one o'clock got under sail. The two = Tubows,=20 Kunocappo, Latoomy-lange, and another chief, were on board, and I = acquainted=20 them that unless the grapnel was returned they must remain in the ship. = They=20 were surprised and not a little alarmed. Canoes were immediately = despatched=20 after the grapnel, which I was informed could not possibly be brought to = the=20 ship before the next day, as those who had stolen it immediately sailed = with=20 their prize to another island. Nevertheless I detained them till sunset, = when=20 their uneasiness and impatience increased to such a degree that they = began to=20 beat themselves about the face and eyes and some of them cried bitterly. = As this=20 distress was more than the grapnel was worth, and I had no reason to = imagine=20 that they were privy to or in any manner concerned in the theft, I could = not=20 think of detaining them longer and called their canoes alongside. I then = told=20 them they were at liberty to go, and made each of them a present of a = hatchet, a=20 saw, with some knives, gimblets, and nails. This unexpected present and = the=20 sudden change in their situation affected them not less with joy than = they had=20 before been with apprehension. They were unbounded in their = acknowledgments and=20 I have little doubt but that we parted better friends than if the affair = had=20 never happened.

We stood to the northward all night with light winds.

Monday 27.

And on the next day the 27th at noon were between the islands Tofoa = and=20 Kotoo. Latitude observed 19 degrees 18 minutes south.

Thus far the voyage had advanced in a course of uninterrupted = prosperity, and=20 had been attended with many circumstances equally pleasing and = satisfactory. A=20 very different scene was now to be experienced. A conspiracy had been = formed=20 which was to render all our past labour productive only of extreme = misery and=20 distress. The means had been concerted and prepared with so much secrecy = and=20 circumspection that no one circumstance appeared to occasion the = smallest=20 suspicion of the impending calamity.

CHAPTER 13.

A Mutiny in the Ship.

1789. April. Monday 27.

We kept near the island Kotoo all the afternoon in hopes that some = canoes=20 would come off to the ship; but in this I was disappointed. The wind = being=20 northerly in the evening we steered to the westward to pass to the south = of=20 Tofoa. I gave directions for this course to be continued during the = night. The=20 master had the first watch, the gunner the middle watch, and Mr. = Christian the=20 morning watch. This was the turn of duty for the night.

Tuesday 28.

Just before sun-rising, while I was yet asleep, Mr. Christian, with = the=20 master at arms, gunner's mate, and Thomas Burkitt, seaman, came into my = cabin,=20 and seizing me tied my hands with a cord behind my back, threatening me = with=20 instant death if I spoke or made the least noise: I however called as = loud as I=20 could in hopes of assistance; but they had already secured the officers = who were=20 not of their party by placing sentinels at their doors. There were three = men at=20 my cabin door besides the four within; Christian had only a cutlass in = his hand,=20 the others had muskets and bayonets. I was hauled out of bed and forced = on deck=20 in my shirt, suffering great pain from the tightness which with they had = tied my=20 hands. I demanded the reason of such violence but received no other = answer than=20 abuse for not holding my tongue. The master, the gunner, the surgeon, = Mr.=20 Elphinstone, master's mate, and Nelson, were kept confined below; and = the fore=20 hatchway was guarded by sentinels. The boatswain and carpenter, and also = the=20 clerk, Mr. Samuel, were allowed to come upon deck, where they saw me = standing=20 abaft the mizenmast with my hands tied behind my back under a guard with = Christian at their head. The boatswain was ordered to hoist the launch = out with=20 a threat if he did not do it instantly TO TAKE CARE OF HIMSELF.

When the boat was out Mr. Hayward and Mr. Hallet, two of the = midshipmen, and=20 Mr. Samuel, were ordered into it. I demanded what their intention was in = giving=20 this order and endeavoured to persuade the people near me not to persist = in such=20 acts of violence; but it was to no effect: "Hold your tongue, Sir, or = you are=20 dead this instant," was constantly repeated to me.

The master by this time had sent to request that he might come on = deck, which=20 was permitted but he was soon ordered back again to his cabin.

I continued my endeavours to turn the tide of affairs, when Christian = changed=20 the cutlass which he had in his hand for a bayonet that was brought to = him and,=20 holding me with a strong grip by the cord that tied my hands, he with = many oaths=20 threatened to kill me immediately if I would not be quiet: the villains = round me=20 had their pieces cocked and bayonets fixed. Particular people were = called on to=20 go into the boat and were hurried over the side; whence I concluded that = with=20 these people I was to be set adrift: I therefore made another effort to = bring=20 about a change but with no other effect than to be threatened with = having my=20 brains blown out.

The boatswain and seamen who were to go in the boat were allowed to = collect=20 twine, canvas, lines, sails, cordage, an eight and twenty-gallon cask of = water,=20 and Mr. Samuel got 150 pounds of bread, with a small quantity of rum and = wine,=20 also a quadrant and compass; but he was forbidden on pain of death to = touch=20 either map, ephemeris, book of astronomical observations, sextant, = timekeeper,=20 or any of my surveys or drawings.

The mutineers having forced those of the seamen whom they meant to = get rid of=20 into the boat, Christian directed a dram to be served to each of his own = crew. I=20 then unhappily saw that nothing could be done to effect the recovery of = the=20 ship: there was no one to assist me, and every endeavour on my part was = answered=20 with threats of death.

The officers were next called upon deck and forced over the side into = the=20 boat, while I was kept apart from everyone, abaft the mizenmast; = Christian,=20 armed with a buoyant, holding me by the bandage that secured my hands. = The guard=20 round me had their pieces cocked, but on my daring the ungrateful = wretches to=20 fire they uncocked them.

Isaac Martin, one of the guard over me, I saw had an inclination to = assist=20 me, and as he fed me with shaddock (my lips being quite parched) we = explained=20 our wishes to each other by our looks; but this being observed Martin = was=20 removed from me. He then attempted to leave the ship, for which purpose = he got=20 into the boat; but with many threats they obliged him to return.

The armourer, Joseph Coleman, and two of the carpenters, McIntosh and = Norman,=20 were also kept contrary to their inclination; and they begged of me, = after I was=20 astern in the boat, to remember that they declared they had no hand in = the=20 transaction. Michael Byrne, I am told, likewise wanted to leave the = ship.

It is of no moment for me to recount my endeavours to bring back the=20 offenders to a sense of their duty: all I could do was by speaking to = them in=20 general; but it was to no purpose, for I was kept securely bound and no = one=20 except the guard suffered to come near me.

To Mr. Samuel I am indebted for securing my journals and commission = with some=20 material ship papers. Without these I had nothing to certify what I had = done,=20 and my honour and character might have been suspected without my = possessing a=20 proper document to have defended them. All this he did with great = resolution,=20 though guarded and strictly watched. He attempted to save the = timekeeper, and a=20 box with my surveys, drawings, and remarks for fifteen years past, which = were=20 numerous, when he was hurried away, with "Damn your eyes you are well = off to get=20 what you have."

It appeared to me that Christian was some time in doubt whether he = should=20 keep the carpenter or his mates; at length he determined on the latter = and the=20 carpenter was ordered into the boat. He was permitted but not without = some=20 opposition to take his tool chest.

Much altercation took place among the mutinous crew during the whole=20 business: some swore "I'll be damned if he does not find his way home, = if he=20 gets anything with him," (meaning me) and, when the carpenter's chest = was=20 carrying away, "Damn my eyes he will have a vessel built in a month." = While=20 others laughed at the helpless situation of the boat, being very deep = and so=20 little room for those who were in her. As for Christian he seemed as if=20 meditating destruction on himself and everyone else.

I asked for arms but they laughed at me, and said I was well = acquainted with=20 the people among whom I was going, and therefore did not want them; four = cutlasses however were thrown into the boat after we were veered = astern.

The officers and men being in the boat they only waited for me, of = which the=20 master at arms informed Christian, who then said: "Come, captain Bligh, = your=20 officers and men are now in the boat and you must go with them; if you = attempt=20 to make the least resistance you will instantly be put to death" and, = without=20 further ceremony, with a tribe of armed ruffians about me, I was forced = over the=20 side where they untied my hands. Being in the boat we were veered astern = by a=20 rope. A few pieces of pork were thrown to us, and some clothes, also the = cutlasses I have already mentioned; and it was then that the armourer = and=20 carpenters called out to me to remember that they had no hand in the=20 transaction. After having undergone a great deal of ridicule and been = kept some=20 time to make sport for these unfeeling wretches we were at length cast = adrift in=20 the open ocean.

I had with me in the boat the following persons:

John Fryer: Master.
Thomas Ledward: Acting Surgeon.
David Nelson: Botanist.
William Peckover: Gunner.
William Cole: Boatswain.
William Purcell: Carpenter.
William Elphinston: Master's Mate.
Thomas Hayward, John Hallet: Midshipman.
John Norton, Peter Linkletter: Quarter Masters.
Lawrence Lebogue: Sailmaker.
John Smith, Thomas Hall: Cooks.
George Simpson: Quarter Master's Mate.
Robert Tinkler: A boy.
Robert Lamb: Butcher.
Mr. Samuel: Clerk.

There remained on board the Bounty:

Fletcher Christian: Master's Mate.
Peter Haywood, Edward Young, George Stewart: Midshipmen.
Charles Churchill: Master at Arms.
John Mills: Gunner's Mate.
James Morrison: Boatswain's Mate.
Thomas Burkitt, Matthew Quintal, John Sumner, John Millward, William =
McKoy,
  Henry Hillbrant, Michael Byrne, William Musprat, Alexander Smith,
  John Williams, Thomas Ellison, Isaac Martin, Richard Skinner,
  Matthew Thompson: Able Seamen.
William Brown: Gardener.
Joseph Coleman: Armourer.
Charles Norman: Carpenter's Mate.
Thomas McIntosh: Carpenter's Crew.

In all 25 hands, and the most able men of the ship's company.

Having little or no wind we rowed pretty fast towards Tofoa, which = bore=20 north-east about 10 leagues from us. While the ship was in sight she = steered to=20 the west-north-west, but I considered this only as a feint; for when we = were=20 sent away "Huzza for Otaheite" was frequently heard among the = mutineers.

Christian the chief of the mutineers is of a respectable family in = the north=20 of England. This was the third voyage he had made with me and, as I = found it=20 necessary to keep my ship's company at three watches, I had given him an = order=20 to take charge of the third, his abilities being thoroughly equal to the = task;=20 and by this means the master and gunner were not at watch and watch.

Haywood is also of a respectable family in the north of England and a = young=20 man of abilities as well as Christian. These two had been objects of my=20 particular regard and attention, and I had taken great pains to instruct = them,=20 having entertained hopes that as professional men they would have become = a=20 credit to their country.

Young was well recommended and had the look of an able stout seaman: = he=20 however fell short of what his appearance promised.

Stewart was a young man of creditable parents in the Orkneys, at = which place=20 on the return of the Resolution from the South Seas in 1780 we received = so many=20 civilities that on that account only I should gladly have taken him with = me but,=20 independent of this recommendation, he was a seaman and had always borne = a good=20 character.

Notwithstanding the roughness with which I was treated the = remembrance of=20 past kindnesses produced some signs of remorse in Christian. When they = were=20 forcing me out of the ship I asked him if this treatment was a proper = return for=20 the many instances he had received of my friendship? he appeared = disturbed at my=20 question and answered with much emotion: "That, captain Bligh, that is = the=20 thing; I am in hell, I am in hell."

As soon as I had time to reflect I felt an inward satisfaction which=20 prevented any depression of my spirits: conscious of my integrity and = anxious=20 solicitude for the good of the service in which I had been engaged I = found my=20 mind wonderfully supported, and I began to conceive hopes, = notwithstanding so=20 heavy a calamity, that I should one day be able to account to my King = and=20 country for the misfortune. A few hours before my situation had been = peculiarly=20 flattering. I had a ship in the most perfect order and well stored with = every=20 necessary both for service and health: by early attention to those = particulars I=20 had as much as lay in my power, provided against any accident, in case I = could=20 not get through Endeavour Straits, as well as against what might befall = me in=20 them; add to this the plants had been successfully preserved in the most = flourishing state: so that upon the whole the voyage was two-thirds = completed,=20 and the remaining part to all appearance in a very promising way; every = person=20 on board being in perfect health, to establish which was ever amongst = the=20 principal objects of my attention.

It will very naturally be asked what could be the reason for such a = revolt?=20 in answer to which I can only conjecture that the mutineers had = flattered=20 themselves with the hopes of a more happy life among the Otaheiteans = than they=20 could possibly enjoy in England; and this, joined to some female = connections,=20 most probably occasioned the whole transaction.

The women at Otaheite are handsome, mild and cheerful in their = manners and=20 conversation, possessed of great sensibility, and have sufficient = delicacy to=20 make them admired and beloved. The chiefs were so much attached to our = people=20 that they rather encouraged their stay among them than otherwise, and = even made=20 them promises of large possessions. Under these and many other attendant = circumstances equally desirable it is now perhaps not so much to be = wondered at,=20 though scarcely possible to have been foreseen, that a set of sailors, = most of=20 them void of connections, should be led away; especially when, in = addition to=20 such powerful inducements, they imagined it in their power to fix = themselves in=20 the midst of plenty on one of the finest islands in the world, where = they need=20 not labour, and where the allurements of dissipation are beyond anything = that=20 can be conceived. The utmost however that any commander could have = supposed to=20 have happened is that some of the people would have been tempted to = desert. But,=20 if it should be asserted that a commander is to guard against an act of = mutiny=20 and piracy in his own ship more than by the common rules of service, it = is as=20 much as to say that he must sleep locked up and when awake be girded = with=20 pistols.

Desertions have happened more or less from most of the ships that = have been=20 at the Society Islands; but it has always been in the commanders power = to make=20 the chiefs return their people: the knowledge therefore that it was = unsafe to=20 desert perhaps first led mine to consider with what ease so small a ship = might=20 be surprised, and that so favourable an opportunity would never offer to = them=20 again.

The secrecy of this mutiny is beyond all conception. Thirteen of the = party=20 who were with me had always lived forward among the seamen; yet neither = they nor=20 the messmates of Christian, Stewart, Haywood, and Young, had ever = observed any=20 circumstance that made them in the least suspect what was going on. To = such a=20 close-planned act of villainy, my mind being entirely free from any = suspicion,=20 it is not wonderful that I fell a sacrifice. Perhaps if there had been = marines=20 on board a sentinel at my cabin-door might have prevented it; for I = slept with=20 the door always open that the officer of the watch might have access to = me on=20 all occasions, the possibility of such a conspiracy being ever the = farthest from=20 my thoughts. Had their mutiny been occasioned by any grievances, either = real or=20 imaginary, I must have discovered symptoms of their discontent, which = would have=20 put me on my guard: but the case was far otherwise. Christian in = particular I=20 was on the most friendly terms with: that very day he was engaged to = have dined=20 with me, and the preceding night he excused himself from supping with me = on=20 pretence of being unwell; for which I felt concerned, having no = suspicions of=20 his integrity and honour.

3D""=20=
A=20 copy of the Draught from which the Bounty's Launch was built.

CHAPTER 14.

Proceed in the Launch to the Island Tofoa.
Difficulty = in=20 obtaining Supplies there.
Treacherous Attack of the = Natives.
Escape to=20 Sea and bear away for New Holland.

1789. April.

My first determination was to seek a supply of breadfruit and water = at Tofoa,=20 and afterwards to sail for Tongataboo, and there risk a solicitation to = Poulaho=20 the king to equip our boat and grant us a supply of water and = provisions, so as=20 to enable us to reach the East Indies.

The quantity of provisions I found in the boat was 150 pounds of = bread, 16=20 pieces of pork, each piece weighing 2 pounds, 6 quarts of rum, 6 bottles = of=20 wine, with 28 gallons of water, and four empty barrecoes.

Fortunately it was calm all the afternoon till about four o'clock, = when we=20 were so far to windward that, with a moderate easterly breeze which = sprung up,=20 we were able to sail. It was nevertheless dark when we got to Tofoa = where I=20 expected to land, but the shore proved to be so steep and rocky that we = were=20 obliged to give up all thoughts of it and keep the boat under the lee of = the=20 island with two oars, for there was no anchorage. Having fixed on this = mode of=20 proceeding for the night I served to every person half a pint of grog, = and each=20 took to his rest as well as our unhappy situation would allow.

Wednesday 29.

In the morning at dawn of day we rowed along shore in search of a=20 landing-place, and about ten o'clock we discovered a cove with a stony = beach at=20 the north-west part of the island, where I dropped the grapnel within 20 = yards=20 of the rocks. A great surf ran on the shore but, as I was unwilling to = diminish=20 our stock of provisions, I landed Mr. Samuel and some others, who = climbed the=20 cliffs and got into the country to search for supplies. The rest of us = remained=20 at the cove, not discovering any other way into the country than that by = which=20 Mr. Samuel had proceeded. It was great consolation to me to find that = the=20 spirits of my people did not sink, notwithstanding our miserable and = almost=20 hopeless situation. Towards noon Mr. Samuel returned with a few quarts = of water=20 which he had found in holes; but he had met with no spring or any = prospect of a=20 sufficient supply in that particular, and had seen only the signs of=20 inhabitants. As it was uncertain what might be our future necessities I = only=20 issued a morsel of bread and a glass of wine to each person for = dinner.

I observed the latitude of this cove to be 19 degrees 41 minutes = south. This=20 is the north-west part of Tofoa, the north-westernmost of the Friendly=20 Islands.

The weather was fair but the wind blew so strong from the = east-south-east=20 that we could not venture to sea. Our detention made it absolutely = necessary to=20 endeavour to obtain something towards our support; for I determined if = possible=20 to keep our first stock entire. We therefore weighed and rowed along = shore to=20 see if anything could be got; and at last discovered some coconut trees; = but=20 they were on the top of high precipices and the surf made it dangerous = landing:=20 both one and the other we however got the better of. Some of the people = with=20 much difficulty climbed the cliffs and got about 20 coconuts, and others = flung=20 them to ropes, by which we hauled them through the surf into the boat. = This was=20 all that could be done here and, as I found no place so safe as the one = we had=20 left to spend the night at, I returned to the cove and, having served a = coconut=20 to each person, we went to rest again in the boat.

Thursday 30.

At daylight we attempted to put to sea; but the wind and weather = proved so=20 bad that I was glad to return to our former station where, after issuing = a=20 morsel of bread and a spoonful of rum to each person, we landed, and I = went off=20 with Mr. Nelson, Mr. Samuel, and some others, into the country, having = hauled=20 ourselves up the precipice by long vines which were fixed there by the = natives=20 for that purpose, this being the only way into the country.

We found a few deserted huts and a small plantain walk but little = taken care=20 of, from which we could only collect three small bunches of plantains. = After=20 passing this place we came to a deep gully that led towards a mountain = near a=20 volcano and, as I conceived that in the rainy season very great torrents = of=20 water must pass through it, we hoped to find sufficient for our use = remaining in=20 some holes of the rocks; but after all our search the whole that we = collected=20 was only nine gallons. We advanced within two miles of the foot of the = highest=20 mountain in the island, on which is the volcano that is almost = constantly=20 burning. The country near it is covered with lava and has a most dreary=20 appearance. As we had not been fortunate in our discoveries, and saw = nothing to=20 alleviate our distresses except the plantains and water above-mentioned, = we=20 returned to the boat exceedingly fatigued and faint. When I came to the=20 precipice whence we were to descend into the cove I was seized with such = a=20 dizziness in my head that I thought it scarce possible to effect it: = however by=20 the assistance of Nelson and others they at last got me down, in a weak=20 condition. Every person being returned by noon I gave about an ounce of = pork and=20 two plantains to each, with half a glass of wine. I again observed the = latitude=20 of this place 19 degrees 41 minutes south. The people who remained by = the boat I=20 had directed to look for fish or what they could pick up about the = rocks; but=20 nothing eatable could be found: so that upon the whole we considered = ourselves=20 on as miserable a spot of land as could well be imagined.

I could not say positively from the former knowledge I had of this = island=20 whether it was inhabited or not; but I knew it was considered inferior = to the=20 other islands, and I was not certain but that the Indians only resorted = to it at=20 particular times. I was very anxious to ascertain this point for, in = case there=20 had been only a few people here, and those could have furnished us with = but very=20 moderate supplies, the remaining in this spot to have made preparations = for our=20 voyage would have been preferable to the risk of going amongst = multitudes, where=20 perhaps we might lose everything. A party therefore sufficiently strong = I=20 determined should go another route as soon as the sun became lower, and = they=20 cheerfully undertook it.

About two o'clock in the afternoon the party set out but, after = suffering=20 much fatigue, they returned in the evening without any kind of = success.

At the head of the cove about 150 yards from the waterside there was = a cave;=20 the distance across the stony beach was about 100 yards, and from the = country=20 into the cove there was no other way than that which I have already = described.=20 The situation secured us from the danger of being surprised, and I = determined to=20 remain on shore for the night with a part of my people that the others = might=20 have more room to rest in the boat with the master, whom I directed to = lie at a=20 grapnel and be watchful in case we should be attacked. I ordered one = plantain=20 for each person to be boiled and, having supped on this scanty allowance = with a=20 quarter of a pint of grog, and fixed the watches for the night, those = whose turn=20 it was laid down to sleep in the cave, before which we kept up a good = fire yet=20 notwithstanding we were much troubled with flies and mosquitoes.

May. Friday 1.

At dawn of day the party set out again in a different route to see = what they=20 could find, in the course of which they suffered greatly for want of = water: they=20 however met with two men, a woman, and a child: the men came with them = to the=20 cove and brought two coconut shells of water. I endeavoured to make = friends of=20 these people and sent them away for breadfruit, plantains, and water. = Soon after=20 other natives came to us; and by noon there were thirty about us, from = whom we=20 obtained a small supply; but I could only afford one ounce of pork and a = quarter=20 of a breadfruit to each man for dinner, with half a pint of water, for I = was=20 fixed in my resolution not to use any of the bread or water in the = boat.

No particular chief was yet among the natives: they were = notwithstanding=20 tractable, and behaved honestly, exchanging the provisions they brought = for a=20 few buttons and beads. The party who had been out informed me of their = having=20 seen several neat plantations, so that it remained no longer a doubt of = there=20 being settled inhabitants on the island, for which reason I determined = to get=20 what I could, and to sail the first moment that the wind and weather = would allow=20 us to put to sea.

I was much puzzled in what manner to account to the natives for the = loss of=20 my ship: I knew they had too much sense to be amused with a story that = the ship=20 was to join me, when she was not in sight from the hills. I was at first = doubtful whether I should tell the real fact or say that the ship had = overset=20 and sunk, and that we only were saved: the latter appeared to be the = most proper=20 and advantageous for us, and I accordingly instructed my people, that we = might=20 all agree in one story. As I expected enquiries were made about the = ship, and=20 they seemed readily satisfied with our account; but there did not appear = the=20 least symptom of joy or sorrow in their faces, although I fancied I = discovered=20 some marks of surprise. Some of the natives were coming and going the = whole=20 afternoon, and we got enough of breadfruit, plantains, and coconuts for = another=20 day; but of water they only brought us about five pints. A canoe also = came in=20 with four men and brought a few coconuts and breadfruit which I bought = as I had=20 done the rest. Nails were much enquired after, but I would not suffer = any to be=20 shown as they were wanted for the use of the boat.

Towards evening I had the satisfaction to find our stock of = provisions=20 somewhat increased, but the natives did not appear to have much to = spare. What=20 they brought was in such small quantities that I had no reason to hope = we should=20 be able to procure from them sufficient to stock us for our voyage. At = sunset=20 all the natives left us in quiet possession of the cove. I thought this = a good=20 sign, and made no doubt that they would come again the next day with a = better=20 supply of food and water, with which I hoped to sail without farther = delay: for=20 if in attempting to get to Tongataboo we should be driven to leeward of = the=20 islands there would be a larger quantity of provisions to support us = against=20 such a misfortune.

At night I served a quarter of a breadfruit and a coconut to each = person for=20 supper and, a good fire being made, all but the watch went to sleep.

Saturday 2.

At daybreak the next morning I was pleased to find everyone's spirits = a=20 little revived, and that they no longer regarded me with those anxious = looks=20 which had constantly been directed towards me since we lost sight of the = ship:=20 every countenance appeared to have a degree of cheerfulness, and they = all seemed=20 determined to do their best.

As there was no certainty of our being supplied with water by the = natives I=20 sent a party among the gullies in the mountains with empty shells to see = what=20 could be found. In their absence the natives came about us as I = expected, and in=20 greater numbers; two canoes also came in from round the north side of = the=20 island. In one of them was an elderly chief called Maccaackavow. Soon = after some=20 of our foraging party returned, and with them came a good-looking chief = called=20 Egijeefow, or perhaps more properly Eefow, Egij or Eghee, signifying a = chief. To=20 each of these men I made a present of an old shirt and a knife, and I = soon found=20 they either had seen me or had heard of my being at Annamooka. They knew = I had=20 been with captain Cook, who they inquired after, and also captain Clerk. = They=20 were very inquisitive to know in what manner I had lost my ship. During = this=20 conversation a young man named Nageete appeared, whom I remembered to = have seen=20 at Annamooka: he expressed much pleasure at our meeting. I enquired = after=20 Poulaho and Feenow, who they said were at Tongataboo; and Eefow agreed = to=20 accompany me thither if I would wait till the weather moderated. The = readiness=20 and affability of this man gave me much satisfaction.

This however was but of short duration for the natives began to = increase in=20 number and I observed some symptoms of a design against us. Soon after = they=20 attempted to haul the boat on shore, on which I brandished my cutlass in = a=20 threatening manner and spoke to Eefow to desire them to desist, which = they did=20 and everything became quiet again. My people who had been in the = mountains now=20 returned with about three gallons of water. I kept buying up the little=20 breadfruit that was brought to us, and likewise some spears to arm my = men with,=20 having only four cutlasses, two of which were in the boat. As we had no = means of=20 improving our situation I told our people I would wait till sunset, by = which=20 time perhaps something might happen in our favour: for if we attempted = to go at=20 present we must fight our way through, which we could do more = advantageously at=20 night; and that in the meantime we would endeavour to get off to the = boat what=20 we had bought. The beach was lined with the natives and we heard nothing = but the=20 knocking of stones together, which they had in each hand. I knew very = well this=20 was the sign of an attack. At noon I served a coconut and a breadfruit = to each=20 person for dinner, and gave some to the chiefs, with whom I continued to = appear=20 intimate and friendly. They frequently importuned me to sit down but I = as=20 constantly refused: for it occurred both to Nelson and myself that the = intended=20 to seize hold of me if I gave them such an opportunity. Keeping = therefore=20 constantly on our guard we were suffered to eat our uncomfortable meal = in some=20 quietness.

After dinner we began by little and little to get our things into the = boat,=20 which was a troublesome business on account of the surf. I carefully = watched the=20 motions of the natives, who continued to increase in number, and found = that,=20 instead of their intention being to leave us, fires were made, and = places fixed=20 on for their stay during the night. Consultations were also held among = them and=20 everything assured me we should be attacked. I sent orders to the master = that=20 when he saw us coming down he should keep the boat close to the shore = that we=20 might the more readily embark.

I had my journal on shore with me, writing the occurrences in the = cave and in=20 sending it down to the boat, it was nearly snatched away but for the = timely=20 assistance of the gunner.

The sun was near setting when I gave the word, on which every person = who was=20 on shore with me boldly took up his proportion of things and carried = them to the=20 boat. The chiefs asked me if I would not stay with them all night. I = said: "No,=20 I never sleep out of my boat; but in the morning we will again trade = with you,=20 and I shall remain till the weather is moderate that we may go, as we = have=20 agreed, to see Poulaho at Tongataboo." Maccaackavow then got up and = said: "You=20 will not sleep on shore? then Mattie" (which directly signifies we will = kill=20 you) and he left me. The onset was now preparing; everyone as I have = described=20 before kept knocking stones together, and Eefow quitted me. All but two = or three=20 things were in the boat, when I took Nageete by the hand, and we walked = down the=20 beach, everyone in a silent kind of horror.

While I was seeing the people embark Nageete wanted me to stay to = speak to=20 Eefow, but I found he was encouraging them to the attack, and it was my=20 determination if they had then begun to have killed him for his = treacherous=20 behaviour. I ordered the carpenter not to quit me till the other people = were in=20 the boat. Nageete, finding I would not stay, loosed himself from my hold = and=20 went off, and we all got into the boat except one man who, while I was = getting=20 on board, quitted it and ran up the beach to cast the stern fast off,=20 notwithstanding the master and others called to him to return while they = were=20 hauling me out of the water.

I was no sooner in the boat than the attack began by about 200 men; = the=20 unfortunate poor man who had run up the beach was knocked down, and the = stones=20 flew like a shower of shot. Many Indians got hold of the stern rope and = were=20 near hauling the boat on shore, which they would certainly have effected = if I=20 had not had a knife in my pocket with which I cut the rope. We then = hauled off=20 to the grapnel, everyone being more or less hurt. At this time I saw = five of the=20 natives about the poor man they had killed, and two of them were beating = him=20 about the head with stones in their hands.

We had no time to reflect for to my surprise they filled their canoes = with=20 stones, and twelve men came off after us to renew the attack, which they = did so=20 effectually as nearly to disable us all. Our grapnel was foul but = Providence=20 here assisted us; the fluke broke and we got to our oars and pulled to = sea. They=20 however could paddle round us, so that we were obliged to sustain the = attack=20 without being able to return it, except with such stones as lodged in = the boat,=20 and in this I found we were very inferior to them. We could not close = because=20 our boat was lumbered and heavy, of which they knew how to take = advantage: I=20 therefore adopted the expedient of throwing overboard some clothes = which, as I=20 expected, they stopped to pick up and, as it was by this time almost = dark, they=20 gave over the attack and returned towards the shore leaving us to = reflect on our=20 unhappy situation.

The poor man killed by the natives was John Norton: this was his = second=20 voyage with me as a quartermaster, and his worthy character made me = lament his=20 loss very much. He has left an aged parent I am told, whom he = supported.

I once before sustained an attack of a similar nature with a smaller = number=20 of Europeans against a multitude of Indians: it was after the death of = Captain=20 Cook on the Morai at Owhyhee, where I was left by Lieutenant King. Yet=20 notwithstanding this experience I had not an idea that the power of a = man's arm=20 could throw stones from two to eight pounds weight with such force and = exactness=20 as these people did. Here unhappily we were without firearms, which the = Indians=20 knew; and it was a fortunate circumstance that they did not begin to = attack us=20 in the cave; for in that case our destruction must have been inevitable, = and we=20 should have had nothing left for it but to sell our lives as dearly as = we could,=20 in which I found everyone cheerfully disposed to concur. This appearance = of=20 resolution deterred them, supposing that they could effect their purpose = without=20 risk after we were in the boat.

Taking this as a sample of the disposition of the natives there was = but=20 little reason to expect much benefit by persevering in the intention of = visiting=20 Poulaho; for I considered their good behaviour formerly to have = proceeded from a=20 dread of our firearms, and which therefore was likely to cease, as they = knew we=20 were now destitute of them: and even supposing our lives not in danger = the boat=20 and everything we had would most probably be taken from us, and thereby = all=20 hopes precluded of ever being able to return to our native country.

We set our sails and steered along shore by the west side of the = island=20 Tofoa, the wind blowing fresh from the eastward. My mind was employed in = considering what was best to be done when I was solicited by all hands = to take=20 them towards home: and when I told them that no hopes of relief for us = remained=20 (except what might be found at New Holland) till I came to Timor, a = distance of=20 full 1200 leagues, where there was a Dutch settlement, but in what part = of the=20 island I knew not, they all agreed to live on one ounce of bread and a = quarter=20 of a pint of water per day. Therefore after examining our stock of = provisions=20 and recommending to them in the most solemn manner not to depart from = their=20 promise, we bore away across a sea where the navigation is but little = known, in=20 a small boat twenty-three feet long from stem to stern, deep laden with = eighteen=20 men. I was happy however to see that everyone seemed better satisfied = with our=20 situation than myself.

Our stock of provisions consisted of about one hundred and fifty = pounds of=20 bread, twenty-eight gallons of water, twenty pounds of pork, three = bottles of=20 wine, and five quarts of rum. The difference between this and the = quantity we=20 had on leaving the ship was principally owing to our loss in the bustle = and=20 confusion of the attack. A few coconuts were in the boat and some = breadfruit,=20 but the latter was trampled to pieces.

CHAPTER 15.

Passage towards New Holland.
Islands discovered in our = Route.
Our great Distresses.
See the Reefs of New Holland and = find a=20 Passage through them.

1789. May.

It was about eight o'clock at night when we bore away under a reefed = lug=20 fore-sail and, having divided the people into watches and got the boat = in a=20 little order, we returned God thanks for our miraculous preservation = and, fully=20 confident of his gracious support, I found my mind more at ease than it = had been=20 for some time past.

Sunday 3.

At daybreak the gale increased; the sun rose very fiery and red, a = sure=20 indication of a severe gale of wind. At eight it blew a violent storm = and the=20 sea ran very high, so that between the seas the sail was becalmed, and = when on=20 the top of the sea it was too much to have set: but we could not venture = to take=20 in the sail for we were in very imminent danger and distress, the sea = curling=20 over the stern of the boat, which obliged us to bale with all our might. = A=20 situation more distressing has perhaps seldom been experienced.

Our bread was in bags and in danger of being spoiled by the wet: to = be=20 starved to death was inevitable if this could not be prevented: I = therefore=20 began to examine what clothes there were in the boat and what other = things could=20 be spared and, having determined that only two suits should be kept for = each=20 person, the rest was thrown overboard with some rope and spare sails, = which=20 lightened the boat considerably, and we had more room to bale the water = out.=20 Fortunately the carpenter had a good chest in the boat, in which we = secured the=20 bread the first favourable moment. His tool chest also was cleared and = the tools=20 stowed in the bottom of the boat so that this became a second = convenience.

I served a teaspoonful of rum to each person (for we were very wet = and cold)=20 with a quarter of a breadfruit, which was scarce eatable, for dinner: = our=20 engagement was now strictly to be carried into execution, and I was = fully=20 determined to make our provisions last eight weeks, let the daily = proportion be=20 ever so small.

At noon I considered our course and distance from Tofoa to be = west-north-west=20 three-quarters west 86 miles, latitude 19 degrees 27 minutes south. I = directed=20 the course to the west-north-west that we might get a sight of the = islands=20 called Feejee if they laid in the direction the natives had pointed out = to=20 me.

The weather continued very severe, the wind veering from north-east = to=20 east-south-east. The sea ran higher than in the forenoon, and the = fatigue of=20 baling to keep the boat from filling was exceedingly great. We could do = nothing=20 more than keep before the sea, in the course of which the boat performed = so well=20 that I no longer dreaded any danger in that respect. But, among the = hardships we=20 were to undergo, that of being constantly wet was not the least.

Monday 4.

The night was very cold and at daylight our limbs were so benumbed = that we=20 could scarce find the use of them. At this time I served a teaspoonful = of rum to=20 each person, from which we all found great benefit.

3D""=20=
Chart=20 of Bligh's Islands discovered by Lt. William Bligh in the Bounty's = Launch.
a=20 a The Track of the Launch.
AND
Chart of the Northern Part of the = New=20 Hebrides discovered by Lt. William Bligh in the Bounty's Launch.
a a = The=20 Track of the Launch.

As I have mentioned before I determined to keep to the = west-north-west till I=20 got more to the northward, for I not only expected to have better = weather but to=20 see the Feejee Islands, as I have often understood from the natives of = Annamooka=20 that they lie in that direction. Captain Cook likewise considered them = to be=20 north-west by west from Tongataboo. Just before noon we discovered a = small flat=20 island of a moderate height bearing west-south-west 4 or 5 leagues. I = observed=20 our latitude to be 18 degrees 58 minutes south; our longitude was by = account 3=20 degrees 4 minutes west from the island of Tofoa, having made a north 72 = degrees=20 west course, distance 95 miles, since yesterday noon. I divided five = small=20 coconuts for our dinner and everyone was satisfied.

A little after noon other islands appeared, and at a quarter past = three=20 o'clock we could count eight, bearing from south round by the west to = north-west=20 by north, those to the south which were the nearest being four leagues = distant=20 from us.

I kept my course to the north-west by west between the islands, the = gale=20 having considerably abated. At six o'clock we discovered three other = small=20 islands to the north-west, the westernmost of them bore north-west half = west 7=20 leagues. I steered to the southward of these islands a west-north-west = course=20 for the night under a reefed sail.

Served a few broken pieces of breadfruit for supper and performed=20 prayers.

The night turned out fair and, having had tolerable rest, everyone = seemed=20 considerably better in the morning, and contentedly breakfasted on a few = pieces=20 of yams that were found in the boat. After breakfast we examined our = bread, a=20 great deal of which was damaged and rotten; this nevertheless we were = glad to=20 keep for use.

I had hitherto been scarcely able to keep any account of our run, but = we now=20 equipped ourselves a little better by getting a log-line marked and, = having=20 practised at counting seconds, several could do it with some degree of=20 exactness.

The islands we had passed lie between the latitude of 19 degrees 5 = minutes=20 south and 18 degrees 19 minutes south, and according to my reckoning = from 3=20 degrees 17 minutes to 3 degrees 46 minutes west longitude from the = island Tofoa:=20 the largest may be about six leagues in circuit; but it is impossible = for me to=20 be very correct. To show where they are to be found again is the most my = situation enabled me to do. The sketch I have made will give a = comparative view=20 of their extent. I believe all the larger islands are inhabited as they = appeared=20 very fertile.

At noon I observed in latitude 18 degrees 10 seconds south and = considered my=20 course and distance from yesterday noon north-west by west half west 94 = miles;=20 longitude by account from Tofoa 4 degrees 29 minutes west.

For dinner I served some of the damaged bread and a quarter of a pint = of=20 water.

About six o'clock in the afternoon we discovered two islands, one = bearing=20 west by south 6 leagues and the other north-west by north 8 leagues; I = kept to=20 windward of the northernmost and, passing it by 10 o'clock, I resumed = our course=20 to the north-west and west-north-west for the night.

Wednesday 6.

The weather was fair and the wind moderate all day from the = east-north-east.=20 At daylight a number of other islands were in sight from = south-south-east to the=20 west and round to north-east by east; between those in the north-west I=20 determined to pass. At noon a small sandy island or key two miles = distant from=20 me bore from east to south three-quarters west. I had passed ten = islands, the=20 largest of which I judged to be 6 or 8 leagues in circuit. Much larger = lands=20 appeared in the south-west and north-north-west, between which I = directed my=20 course. Latitude observed 17 degrees 17 minutes south; course since = yesterday=20 noon north 50 degrees west; distance 84 miles; longitude made by account = 5=20 degrees 37 minutes west.

Our allowance for the day was a quarter of a pint of coconut milk and = the=20 meat, which did not exceed two ounces to each person: it was received = very=20 contentedly but we suffered great drought. I durst not venture to land = as we had=20 no arms and were less capable of defending ourselves than we were at = Tofoa.

To keep an account of the boat's run was rendered difficult from = being=20 constantly wet with the sea breaking over us but, as we advanced towards = the=20 land, the sea became smoother and I was enabled to form a sketch of the = islands=20 which will serve to give a general knowledge of their extent and = position. Those=20 we were near appeared fruitful and hilly, some very mountainous and all = of a=20 good height.

To our great joy we hooked a fish, but we were miserably disappointed = by its=20 being lost in trying to get it into the boat.

We continued steering to the north-west between the islands which by = the=20 evening appeared of considerable extent, woody and mountainous. At = sunset the=20 southernmost bore from south to south-west by west and the northernmost = from=20 north by west half west to north-east half east. At six o'clock we were = nearly=20 midway between them and about 6 leagues distant from each shore when we = fell in=20 with a coral bank, on which we had only four feet water, without the = least break=20 on it or ruffle of the sea to give us warning. I could see that it = extended=20 about a mile on each side of us, but as it is probable that it may = extend much=20 further I have laid it down so in my sketch.

I directed the course west by north for the night, and served to each = person=20 an ounce of the damaged bread and a quarter of a pint of water for = supper.

As our lodgings were very miserable and confined for want of room I=20 endeavoured to remedy the latter defect by putting ourselves at watch = and watch;=20 so that one half always sat up while the other lay down on the boat's = bottom or=20 upon a chest, with nothing to cover us but the heavens. Our limbs were=20 dreadfully cramped for we could not stretch them out, and the nights = were so=20 cold, and we so constantly wet, that after a few hours sleep we could = scarce=20 move.

Thursday 7.

At dawn of day we again discovered land from west-south-west to=20 west-north-west, and another island north-north-west, the latter a high = round=20 lump of but little extent: the southern land that we had passed in the = night was=20 still in sight. Being very wet and cold I served a spoonful of rum and a = morsel=20 of bread for breakfast.

The land in the west was distinguished by some extraordinary high = rocks=20 which, as we approached them, assumed a variety of forms. The country = appeared=20 to be agreeably interspersed with high and low land, and in some places = covered=20 with wood. Off the north-east part lay some small rocky islands, between = which=20 and an island 4 leagues to the north-east I directed my course; but a = lee=20 current very unexpectedly set us very near to the rocky isles, and we = could only=20 get clear of it by rowing, passing close to the reef that surrounded = them. At=20 this time we observed two large sailing canoes coming swiftly after us = along=20 shore and, being apprehensive of their intentions, we rowed with some = anxiety,=20 fully sensible of our weak and defenceless state. At noon it was calm = and the=20 weather cloudy; my latitude is therefore doubtful to 3 or 4 miles. Our = course=20 since yesterday noon north-west by west, distance 79 miles; latitude by = account=20 16 degrees 29 minutes south, and longitude by account from Tofoa 6 = degrees 46=20 minutes west. Being constantly wet it was with the utmost difficulty I = could=20 open a book to write, and I am sensible that what I have done can only = serve to=20 point out where these lands are to be found again, and give an idea of = their=20 extent.

All the afternoon we had light winds at north-north-east: the weather = was=20 very rainy, attended with thunder and lightning. Only one of the canoes = gained=20 upon us, which by three o'clock in the afternoon was not more than two = miles=20 off, when she gave over chase.

If I may judge from the sail of these vessels they are of a similar=20 construction with those at the Friendly Islands which, with the nearness = of=20 their situation, gives reason to believe that they are the same kind of = people.=20 Whether these canoes had any hostile intention against us must remain a = doubt:=20 perhaps we might have benefited by an intercourse with them, but in our=20 defenceless situation to have made the experiment would have been = risking too=20 much.

I imagine these to be the islands called Feejee as their extent, = direction,=20 and distance from the Friendly Islands answers to the description given = of them=20 by those Islanders. Heavy rain came on at four o'clock, when every = person did=20 their utmost to catch some water, and we increased our stock to 34 = gallons,=20 besides quenching our thirst for the first time since we had been at = sea; but an=20 attendant consequence made us pass the night very miserably for, being = extremely=20 wet and having no dry things to shift or cover us, we experienced cold = and=20 shiverings scarce to be conceived. Most fortunately for us the forenoon = turned=20 out fair and we stripped and dried our clothes. The allowance I issued = today was=20 an ounce and a half of pork, a teaspoonful of rum, half a pint of = coconut milk,=20 and an ounce of bread. The rum though so small in quantity was of the = greatest=20 service. A fishing-line was generally towing from the stern of the boat = but=20 though we saw great numbers of fish we could never catch one.

At noon I observed in latitude 16 degrees 4 minutes south and found = we had=20 made a course from yesterday noon north 62 degrees west distance 62 = miles;=20 longitude by account from Tofoa 7 degrees 42 minutes west.

The land passed yesterday and the day before is a group of islands, = 14 or 16=20 in number, lying between the latitude of 16 degrees 26 minutes south and = 17=20 degrees 57 minutes south, and in longitude by my account 4 degrees 47 = minutes to=20 7 degrees 17 minutes west from Tofoa. Three of these islands are very = large,=20 having from 30 to 40 leagues of sea-coast.

In the afternoon we cleaned out the boat and it employed us till = sunset to=20 get everything dry and in order. Hitherto I had issued the allowance by = guess,=20 but I now made a pair of scales with two coconut shells and, having = accidentally=20 some pistol-balls in the boat, 25 of which weighed one pound or 16 = ounces, I=20 adopted one,* as the proportion of weight that each person should = receive of=20 bread at the times I served it. I also amused all hands with describing = the=20 situation of New Guinea and New Holland, and gave them every information = in my=20 power that in case any accident happened to me those who survived might = have=20 some idea of what they were about, and be able to find their way to = Timor, which=20 at present they knew nothing of more than the name and some not even = that. At=20 night I served a quarter of a pint of water and half an ounce of bread = for=20 supper.

(*Footnote. It weighed 272 grains.)

Saturday 9.

In the morning a quarter of a pint of coconut milk and some of the = decayed=20 bread was served for breakfast, and for dinner I divided the meat of = four=20 coconuts with the remainder of the rotten bread, which was only eatable = by such=20 distressed people.

At noon I observed the latitude to be 15 degrees 47 minutes south; = course=20 since yesterday north 75 degrees west distance 64 miles; longitude made = by=20 account 8 degrees 45 minutes west.

In the afternoon I fitted a pair of shrouds for each mast, and = contrived a=20 canvas weather cloth round the boat, and raised the quarters about nine = inches=20 by nailing on the seats of the stern sheets, which proved of great = benefit to=20 us.

The wind had been moderate all day in the south-east quarter with = fine=20 weather; but about nine o'clock in the evening the clouds began to = gather, and=20 we had a prodigious fall of rain with severe thunder and lightning. By = midnight=20 we caught about twenty gallons of water. Being miserably wet and cold I = served=20 to the people a teaspoonful of rum each to enable them to bear with = their=20 distressed situation. The weather continued extremely bad and the wind=20 increased; we spent a very miserable night without sleep except such as = could be=20 got in the midst of rain. The day brought no relief but its light. The = sea broke=20 over us so much that two men were constantly baling; and we had no = choice how to=20 steer, being obliged to keep before the waves for fear of the boat = filling.

The allowance now regularly served to each person was one 25th of a = pound of=20 bread and a quarter of a pint of water, at eight in the morning, at = noon, and at=20 sunset. Today I gave about half an ounce of pork for dinner which, = though any=20 moderate person would have considered only as a mouthful, was divided = into three=20 or four.

The rain abated towards noon and I observed the latitude to be 15 = degrees 17=20 minutes south; course north 67 degrees west distance 78 miles; longitude = made 10=20 degrees west.

The wind continued strong from south-south-east to south-east with = very=20 squally weather and a high breaking sea, so that we were miserably wet = and=20 suffered great cold in the night.

Monday 11.

In the morning at daybreak I served to every person a teaspoonful of = rum, our=20 limbs being so cramped that we could scarce move them. Our situation was = now=20 extremely dangerous, the sea frequently running over our stern, which = kept us=20 baling with all our strength.

At noon the sun appeared, which gave us as much pleasure as in a = winter's day=20 in England. I issued the 25th of a pound of bread and a quarter of a = pint of=20 water, as yesterday. Latitude observed 14 degrees 50 minutes south; = course north=20 71 degrees west distance 102 miles; and longitude by account 11 degrees = 39=20 minutes west from Tofoa.

In the evening it rained hard and we again experienced a dreadful = night.

Tuesday 12.

At length the day came and showed to me a miserable set of beings, = full of=20 wants, without anything to relieve them. Some complained of great pain = in their=20 bowels, and everyone of having almost lost the use of his limbs. The = little=20 sleep we got was no ways refreshing as we were covered with sea and = rain. I=20 served a spoonful of rum at day-dawn, and the usual allowance of bread = and water=20 for breakfast, dinner, and supper.

At noon it was almost calm, no sun to be seen, and some of us = shivering with=20 cold. Course since yesterday west by north distance 89 miles; latitude = by=20 account 14 degrees 33 minutes south; longitude made 13 degrees 9 minutes = west.=20 The direction of our course was to pass to the northward of the New=20 Hebrides.

The wet weather continued and in the afternoon the wind came from the = southward, blowing fresh in squalls. As there was no prospect of getting = our=20 clothes dried I recommended to everyone to strip and wring them through = the salt=20 water, by which means they received a warmth that while wet with rain = they could=20 not have.

This afternoon we saw a kind of fruit on the water which Nelson told = me was=20 the Barringtonia of Forster and, as I saw the same again in the morning, = and=20 some men-of-war birds, I was led to believe that we were not far from = land.

We continued constantly shipping seas and baling, and were very wet = and cold=20 in the night; but I could not afford the allowance of rum at = daybreak.

Wednesday 13.

At noon I had a sight of the sun, latitude 14 degrees 17 minutes = south.=20 Course west by north 79 miles; longitude made 14 degrees 28 minutes = west. All=20 this day we were constantly shipping water and suffered much cold and = shiverings=20 in the night.

Thursday 14.

Fresh gales at south-east and gloomy weather with rain and a high = sea. At six=20 in the morning we saw land from south-west by south eight leagues to = north-west=20 by west three-quarters west six leagues, which soon after appeared to be = four=20 islands, one of them much larger than the others, and all of them high = and=20 remarkable. At noon we discovered a small island and some rocks bearing=20 north-west by north four leagues, and another island west eight leagues, = so that=20 the whole were six in number; the four I had first seen bearing from = south half=20 east to south-west by south; our distance three leagues from the nearest = island.=20 My latitude observed was 13 degrees 29 minutes south, and longitude by = account=20 from Tofoa 15 degrees 49 minutes west; course since yesterday noon north = 63=20 degrees west distance 89 miles. At four in the afternoon we passed the=20 westernmost island.

Friday 15.

At one in the morning another island was discovered bearing = west-north-west=20 five leagues distance, and at eight o'clock we saw it for the last time = bearing=20 north-east seven leagues. A number of gannets, boobies, and men-of-war = birds=20 were seen.

These islands lie between the latitude of 13 degrees 16 minutes and = 14=20 degrees 10 minutes south: their longitude according to my reckoning 15 = degrees=20 51 minutes to 17 degrees 6 minutes west from the island Tofoa.* The = largest=20 island I judged to be about twenty leagues in circuit, the others five = or six.=20 The easternmost is the smallest island and most remarkable, having a = high sugar=20 loaf hill.

(*Footnote. By making a proportional allowance for the error = afterwards found in the dead reckoning I estimate the longitude of = these=20 islands to be from 167 degrees 17 minutes east to 168 degrees 34 = minutes east=20 from Greenwich.)

The sight of these islands served only to increase the misery of our=20 situation. We were very little better than starving with plenty in view; = yet to=20 attempt procuring any relief was attended with so much danger that = prolonging of=20 life, even in the midst of misery, was thought preferable, while there = remained=20 hopes of being able to surmount our hardships. For my own part I = consider the=20 general run of cloudy and wet weather to be a blessing of Providence. = Hot=20 weather would have caused us to have died with thirst; and probably = being so=20 constantly covered with rain or sea protected us from that dreadful=20 calamity.

As I had nothing to assist my memory I could not then determine = whether these=20 islands were a part of the New Hebrides or not: I believe them to be a = new=20 discovery which I have since found true but, though they were not seen = either by=20 Monsieur Bougainville or Captain Cook, they are so nearly in the = neighbourhood=20 of the New Hebrides that they must be considered as part of the same = group. They=20 are fertile and inhabited, as I saw smoke in several places.

The wind was at south-east with rainy weather all day. The night was = very=20 dark, not a star could be seen to steer by, and the sea broke = continually over=20 us. I found it necessary to counteract as much as possible the effect of = the=20 southerly winds to prevent being driven too near New Guinea, for in = general we=20 were forced to keep so much before the sea that if we had not, at = intervals of=20 moderate weather, steered a more southerly course we should inevitably = from a=20 continuance of the gales have been thrown in sight of that coast: in = which case=20 there would most probably have been an end to our voyage.

Saturday 16.

In addition to our miserable allowance of one 25th of a pound of = bread and a=20 quarter of a pint of water I issued for dinner about an ounce of salt = pork to=20 each person. I was often solicited for this pork, but I considered it = more=20 proper to issue it in small quantities than to suffer it to be all used = at once=20 or twice, which would have been done if I had allowed it.

At noon I observed in 13 degrees 33 minutes south, longitude made = from Tofoa=20 19 degrees 27 minutes west; course north 82 degrees west, distance 101 = miles.=20 The sun breaking out through the clouds gave us hopes of drying our wet = clothes,=20 but the sunshine was of short duration. We had strong breezes at = south-east by=20 south and dark gloomy weather with storms of thunder, lightning, and = rain. The=20 night was truly horrible, and not a star to be seen; so that our = steerage was=20 uncertain.

Sunday 17.

At dawn of day I found every person complaining, and some of them = solicited=20 extra allowance, which I positively refused. Our situation was = miserable: always=20 wet, and suffering extreme cold in the night without the least shelter = from the=20 weather. Being constantly obliged to bale to keep the boat from filling = was=20 perhaps not to be reckoned an evil as it gave us exercise.

The little rum we had was of great service: when our nights were = particularly=20 distressing I generally served a teaspoonful or two to each person: and = it was=20 always joyful tidings when they heard of my intentions.

At noon a water-spout was very near on board of us. I issued an ounce = of pork=20 in addition to the allowance of bread and water; but before we began to = eat=20 every person stripped and, having wrung their clothes through the = seawater,=20 found much warmth and refreshment. Course since yesterday noon = west-south-west=20 distance 100 miles; latitude by account 14 degrees 11 minutes south and=20 longitude made 21 degrees 3 minutes west.

The night was dark and dismal: the sea constantly breaking over us = and=20 nothing but the wind and waves to direct our steerage. It was my = intention if=20 possible to make New Holland to the southward of Endeavour straits, = being=20 sensible that it was necessary to preserve such a situation as would = make a=20 southerly wind a fair one, that we might range along the reefs till an = opening=20 should be found into smooth water, and we the sooner be able to pick up = some=20 refreshments.

Monday 18.

In the morning the rain abated, when we stripped and wrung our = clothes=20 through the seawater as usual, which refreshed us greatly. Every person=20 complained of violent pain in their bones; I was only surprised that no = one was=20 yet laid up. The customary allowance of one 25th of a pound of bread and = a=20 quarter of a pint of water was served at breakfast, dinner, and = supper.

At noon I deduced my situation by account, for we had no glimpse of = the sun,=20 to be in latitude 14 degrees 52 minutes south; course since yesterday = noon=20 west-south-west 106 miles; longitude made from Tofoa 22 degrees 45 = minutes west.=20 Saw many boobies and noddies, a sign of being in the neighbourhood of = land. In=20 the night we had very severe lightning with heavy rain and were obliged = to keep=20 baling without intermission.

Tuesday 19.

Very bad weather and constant rain. At noon latitude by account 14 = degrees 37=20 minutes south; course since yesterday north 81 degrees west, distance = 100 miles;=20 longitude made 24 degrees 30 minutes west. With the allowance of bread = and water=20 served half an ounce of pork to each person for dinner.

Wednesday 20.

Fresh breezes east-north-east with constant rain, at times a deluge. = Always=20 baling.

At dawn of day some of my people seemed half dead: our appearances = were=20 horrible, and I could look no way but I caught the eye of someone in = distress.=20 Extreme hunger was now too evident, but no one suffered from thirst, nor = had we=20 much inclination to drink, that desire perhaps being satisfied through = the skin.=20 The little sleep we got was in the midst of water, and we constantly = awoke with=20 severe cramps and pains in our bones. This morning I served about two=20 teaspoonfuls of rum to each person and the allowance of bread and water = as=20 usual. At noon the sun broke out and revived everyone. I found we were = in=20 latitude 14 degrees 49 minutes south; longitude made 25 degrees 46 = minutes west;=20 course south 88 degrees west distance 75 miles.

All the afternoon we were so covered with rain and salt water that we = could=20 scarcely see. We suffered extreme cold and everyone dreaded the approach = of=20 night. Sleep, though we longed for it, afforded no comfort: for my own = part I=20 almost lived without it.

Thursday 21.

About two o'clock in the morning we were overwhelmed with a deluge of = rain.=20 It fell so heavy that we were afraid it would fill the boat, and were = obliged to=20 bale with all our might. At dawn of day I served a larger allowance of = rum.=20 Towards noon the rain abated and the sun shone, but we were miserably = cold and=20 wet, the sea breaking constantly over us so that, notwithstanding the = heavy=20 rain, we had not been able to add to our stock of fresh water. Latitude = by=20 observation 14 degrees 29 minutes south, and longitude made by account = from=20 Tofoa 27 degrees 25 minutes west; course since yesterday noon north 78 = degrees=20 west 99 miles. I now considered myself nearly on a meridian with the = east part=20 of New Guinea.

Friday 22.

Strong gales from east-south-east to south-south-east, a high sea, = and dark=20 dismal night.

Our situation this day was extremely calamitous. We were obliged to = take the=20 course of the sea, running right before it and watching with the utmost = care as=20 the least error in the helm would in a moment have been our = destruction.

At noon it blew very hard and the foam of the sea kept running over = our stern=20 and quarters; I however got propped up and made an observation of the = latitude=20 in 14 degrees 17 minutes south; course north 85 degrees west distance = 130 miles;=20 longitude made 29 degrees 38 minutes west.

The misery we suffered this night exceeded the preceding. The sea = flew over=20 us with great force and kept us baling with horror and anxiety.

Saturday 23.

At dawn of day I found everyone in a most distressed condition, and I = began=20 to fear that another such night would put an end to the lives of several = who=20 seemed no longer able to support their sufferings. I served an allowance = of two=20 teaspoonfuls of rum, after drinking which, having wrung our clothes and = taken=20 our breakfast of bread and water, we became a little refreshed.

Towards noon the weather became fair, but with very little abatement = of the=20 gale and the sea remained equally high. With some difficulty I observed = the=20 latitude to be 13 degrees 44 minutes south: course since yesterday noon = north 74=20 degrees west, distance 116 miles; longitude made 31 degrees 32 minutes = west from=20 Tofoa.

The wind moderated in the evening and the weather looked much better, = which=20 rejoiced all hands so that they ate their scanty allowance with more=20 satisfaction than for some time past. The night also was fair but, being = always=20 wet with the sea, we suffered much from the cold.

Sunday 24.

A fine morning, I had the pleasure to see, produced some cheerful=20 countenances and, the first time for 15 days past, we experienced = comfort from=20 the warmth of the sun. We stripped and hung our clothes up to dry, which = were by=20 this time become so threadbare that they would not keep out either wet = or=20 cold.

At noon I observed in latitude 13 degrees 33 minutes south; longitude = by=20 account from Tofoa 33 degrees 28 minutes west; course north 84 degrees = west,=20 distance 114 miles. With the usual allowance of bread and water for = dinner I=20 served an ounce of pork to each person. This afternoon we had many birds = about=20 us which are never seen far from land, such as boobies and noddies.

ALLOWANCE LESSENED.

As the sea began to run fair, and we shipped but little water, I took = the=20 opportunity to examine into the state of our bread and found that, = according to=20 the present mode of issuing, there was a sufficient quantity remaining = for 29=20 days allowance, by which time I hoped we should be able to reach Timor. = But as=20 this was very uncertain and it was possible that, after all, we might be = obliged=20 to go to Java, I determined to proportion the allowance so as to make = our stock=20 hold out six weeks. I was apprehensive that this would be ill received, = and that=20 it would require my utmost resolution to enforce it for, small as the = quantity=20 was which I intended to take away for our future good, yet it might = appear to my=20 people like robbing them of life, and some, who were less patient than = their=20 companions, I expected would very ill brook it. However on my = representing the=20 necessity of guarding against delays that might be occasioned in our = voyage by=20 contrary winds, or other causes, and promising to enlarge upon the = allowance as=20 we got on, they cheerfully agreed to my proposal. It was accordingly = settled=20 that every person should receive one 25th of a pound of bread for = breakfast, and=20 the same quantity for dinner, so that by omitting the proportion for = supper, we=20 had 43 days allowance.

Monday 25.

At noon some noddies came so near to us that one of them was caught = by hand.=20 This bird was about the size of a small pigeon. I divided it with its = entrails=20 into 18 portions, and by a well-known method at sea of Who shall have = this?* it=20 was distributed with the allowance of bread and water for dinner, and = ate up=20 bones and all, with salt water for sauce. I observed the latitude 13 = degrees 32=20 minutes south; longitude made 35 degrees 19 minutes west; course north = 89=20 degrees west, distance 108 miles.

(*Footnote. One person turns his back on the object that is = to be=20 divided: another then points separately to the portions, and each of = them=20 asking aloud, "Who shall have this?" to which the first answers by = naming=20 somebody. This impartial method of division gives every man an equal = chance of=20 the best share.)

In the evening several boobies flying very near to us we had the good = fortune=20 to catch one of them. This bird is as large as a duck: like the noddy it = has=20 received its name from seamen for suffering itself to be caught on the = masts and=20 yards of ships. They are the most presumptive proofs of being in the=20 neighbourhood of land of any seafowl we are acquainted with. I directed = the bird=20 to be killed for supper, and the blood to be given to three of the = people who=20 were the most distressed for want of food. The body, with the entrails, = beak,=20 and feet, I divided into 18 shares, and with an allowance of bread, = which I made=20 a merit of granting, we made a good supper, compared with our usual = fare.

Tuesday 26.

Fresh breezes from the south-east with fine weather. In the morning = we caught=20 another booby so that Providence appeared to be relieving our wants in = an=20 extraordinary manner. Towards noon we passed a great many pieces of the = branches=20 of trees, some of which appeared to have been no long time in the water. = I had a=20 good observation for the latitude, and found our situation to be in 13 = degrees=20 41 minutes south; longitude by account from Tofoa 37 degrees 13 minutes = west;=20 course south 85 degrees west, 112 miles. The people were overjoyed at = the=20 addition to their dinner which was distributed in the same manner as on = the=20 preceding evening, giving the blood to those who were the most in want = of=20 food.

To make the bread a little savoury most of the people frequently = dipped it in=20 salt water; but I generally broke mine into small pieces and ate it in = my=20 allowance of water, out of a coconut shell with a spoon, economically = avoiding=20 to take too large a piece at a time, so that I was as long at dinner as = if it=20 had been a much more plentiful meal.

The weather was now serene, which nevertheless was not without its=20 inconveniences, for we began to feel distress of a different kind from = that=20 which we had lately been accustomed to suffer. The heat of the sun was = so=20 powerful that several of the people were seized with a languor and = faintness=20 which made life indifferent. We were so fortunate as to catch two = boobies in the=20 evening: their stomachs contained several flying-fish and small = cuttlefish, all=20 of which I saved to be divided for dinner the next day.

Wednesday 27.

A fresh breeze at east-south-east with fair weather. We passed much = driftwood=20 this forenoon and saw many birds; I therefore did not hesitate to = pronounce that=20 we were near the reefs of New Holland. From my recollection of Captain = Cook's=20 survey of this coast I considered the direction of it to be north-west, = and I=20 was therefore satisfied that, with the wind to the southward of east, I = could=20 always clear any dangers.

At noon I observed in latitude 13 degrees 26 minutes south; course = since=20 yesterday north 82 degrees west, distance 109 miles; longitude made 39 = degrees 4=20 minutes. After writing my account I divided the two birds with their = entrails=20 and the contents of their maws into 18 portions and, as the prize was a = very=20 valuable one it was divided as before, by calling out Who shall have = this? so=20 that today, with the allowance of a 25th of a pound of bread at = breakfast, and=20 another at dinner, with the proportion of water, I was happy to see that = every=20 person thought he had feasted.

In the evening we saw a gannet; and the clouds remained so fixed in = the west=20 that I had little doubt of our being near the land. The people, after = taking=20 their allowance of water for supper, amused themselves with conversing = on the=20 probability of what we should find.

Thursday 28.

At one in the morning the person at the helm heard the sound of = breakers, and=20 I no sooner lifted up my head than I saw them close under our lee, not = more than=20 a quarter of a mile distant from us. I immediately hauled on a wind to = the=20 north-north-east and in ten minutes time we could neither see nor hear = them.

I have already mentioned my reason for making New Holland so far to = the=20 southward: for I never doubted of numerous openings in the reef through = which I=20 could have access to the shore and, knowing the inclination of the coast = to be=20 to the north-west and the wind mostly to the southward of east, I could = with=20 ease range such a barrier of reefs till I should find a passage, which = now=20 became absolutely necessary, without a moment's loss of time. The idea = of=20 getting into smooth water and finding refreshments kept my people's = spirits up:=20 their joy was very great after we had got clear of the breakers to which = we had=20 approached much nearer than I thought was possible, without first = discovering=20 them.

Friday 29.

In the morning at daylight, we could see nothing of the land or of = the reefs.=20 We bore away again and at nine o'clock saw the reefs. The sea broke = furiously=20 over every part, and we had no sooner got near to them than the wind = came at=20 east, so that we could only lie along the line of the breakers, within = which we=20 saw the water so smooth that every person already anticipated the = heart-felt=20 satisfaction he should receive as soon as we could get within them. I = now found=20 we were embayed for we could not lie clear with the sails, the wind = having=20 backed against us; and the sea set in so heavy towards the reef that our = situation was become unsafe. We could effect but little with the oars, = having=20 scarce strength to pull them, and I began to apprehend that we should be = obliged=20 to attempt pushing over the reef. Even this I did not despair of = effecting with=20 success when happily we discovered a break in the reef, about one mile = from us,=20 and at the same time an island of a moderate height within it, nearly in = the=20 same direction, bearing west half north. I entered the passage with a = strong=20 stream running to the westward and found it about a quarter of a mile = broad,=20 with every appearance of deep water.

On the outside the reef inclined to the north-east for a few miles, = and from=20 thence to the north-west: on the south side of the entrance it inclined = to the=20 south-south-west as far as I could see it, and I conjecture that a = similar=20 passage to this which we now entered may be found near the breakers that = I first=20 discovered which are 23 miles south of this channel.

I did not recollect what latitude Providential channel* lies in, but = I=20 considered it to be within a few miles of this, which is situate in 12 = degrees=20 51 minutes south latitude.

(*Footnote. Providential Channel is laid down by Captain = Cook in=20 12 degrees 34 minutes south, longitude 143 degrees 33 minutes=20 east.)

Being now happily within the reefs and in smooth water I endeavoured = to keep=20 near them to try for fish, but the tide set us to the north-west, I = therefore=20 bore away in that direction and, having promised to land on the first = convenient=20 spot we could find, all our past hardships seemed already to be = forgotten.

At noon I had a good observation by which our latitude was 12 degrees = 46=20 minutes south, whence the foregoing situations may be considered as = determined=20 with some exactness. The island first seen bore west-south-west five = leagues.=20 This, which I have called the island Direction, will in fair weather = always show=20 the channel, from which it bears due west, and may be seen as soon as = the reefs=20 from a ship's masthead: it lies in the latitude of 12 degrees 51 minutes = south.=20 These however are marks too small for a ship to hit unless it can = hereafter be=20 ascertained that passages through the reef are numerous along the coast = which I=20 am inclined to think they are, in which case there would be little risk = even if=20 the wind was directly on the shore.

My longitude made by dead reckoning from the island Tofoa to our = passage=20 through the reef is 40 degrees 10 minutes west. Providential channel, I = imagine,=20 must lie very nearly under the same meridian with our passage, by which = it=20 appears we had out-run our reckoning 1 degree 9 minutes.

We now returned God thanks for his gracious protection, and with much = content=20 took our miserable allowance of a 25th of a pound of bread and a quarter = of a=20 pint of water for dinner.

CHAPTER 16.

Progress to the Northward along the Coast of New Holland. = Land=20 on different Islands in search of Supplies.

May 1789.

As we advanced within the reefs the coast began to show itself very=20 distinctly in a variety of high and low land, some parts of which were = covered=20 with wood. In our way towards the shore we fell in with a point of a = reef which=20 is connected with that towards the sea, and here we came to a grapnel = and tried=20 to catch fish but had no success. The island Direction at this time bore = south=20 three or four leagues. Two islands lay about four miles to the west by = north,=20 and appeared eligible for a resting-place, if for nothing more; but on = our=20 approach to the nearest island it proved to be only a heap of stones, = and its=20 size too inconsiderable to shelter the boat. We therefore proceeded to = the next,=20 which was close to it and towards the main. On the north-west side of = this I=20 found a bay and a fine sandy point to land at. Our distance was about a = quarter=20 of a mile from a projecting part of the main, which bore from south-west = by=20 south to north-north-west three-quarters west. We landed to examine if = there=20 were any signs of the natives being near us: we saw some old fireplaces = but=20 nothing to make me apprehend that this would be an unsafe situation for = the=20 night. Everyone was anxious to find something to eat, and it was soon = discovered=20 that there were oysters on the rocks for the tide was out; but it was = nearly=20 dark and only a few could be gathered. I determined therefore to wait = till the=20 morning, when I should better know how to proceed, and I directed that = one half=20 of our company should sleep on shore and the other half in the boat. We = would=20 gladly have made a fire but, as we could not accomplish it, we took our = rest for=20 the night, which happily was calm and undisturbed.

Friday 29.

The dawn of day brought greater strength and spirits to us than I = expected=20 for, notwithstanding everyone was very weak, there appeared strength = sufficient=20 remaining to make me conceive the most favourable hopes of our being = able to=20 surmount the difficulties we might yet have to encounter.

As there were no appearances to make me imagine that any of the = natives were=20 near us I sent out parties in search of supplies, while others of the = people=20 were putting the boat in order that we might be ready to go to sea, in = case any=20 unforeseen cause should make it necessary. One of the gudgeons of the = rudder had=20 come out in the course of the night and was lost. This, if it had = happened at=20 sea, might have been attended with the most serious consequences, as the = management of the boat could not have been so nicely preserved as these = very=20 heavy seas required. I had been apprehensive of this accident, and had = in some=20 measure prepared for it, by having grummets fixed on each quarter of the = boat=20 for oars; but our utmost readiness in using them would not probably have = saved=20 us. It appears therefore a providential circumstance that it happened in = a place=20 of safety, and that it was in our power to remedy the defect; for by = great good=20 luck we found a large staple in the boat, which answered the = purpose.

The parties returned, highly rejoiced at having found plenty of = oysters and=20 fresh water. I had also made a fire by the help of a small magnifying = glass and,=20 what was still more fortunate, we found among the few things which had = been=20 thrown into the boat and saved a piece of brimstone and a tinderbox, so = that I=20 secured fire for the future.

One of the people had been so provident as to bring away with him = from the=20 ship a copper pot: by being in possession of this article we were = enabled to=20 make a proper use of the supply we now obtained for, with a mixture of = bread and=20 a little pork, we made a stew that might have been relished by people of = far=20 more delicate appetites, and of which each person received a full = pint.

The general complaints of disease among us were a dizziness in the = head,=20 great weakness of the joints, and violent tenesmus, most of us having = had no=20 evacuation by stool since we left the ship. I had constantly a severe = pain at my=20 stomach but none of our complaints were alarming: on the contrary, = everyone=20 retained marks of strength that, with a mind possessed of a tolerable = share of=20 fortitude, seemed able to bear more fatigue than I imagined we should = have to=20 undergo in our voyage to Timor.

As I would not allow the people to expose themselves to the heat of = the sun,=20 it being near noon, everyone took his allotment of earth where it was = shaded by=20 the bushes for a short sleep.

The oysters which we found grew so fast to the rocks that it was with = difficulty they could be broken off, and at length we discovered it to = be the=20 most expeditious way to open them where they were fixed. They were of a = good=20 size, and well tasted. To add to this happy circumstance in the hollow = of the=20 land there grew some wire-grass, which indicated a moist situation. On = forcing a=20 stick, about three feet long, into the ground we found water, and with = little=20 trouble dug a well which produced as much as our occasions required. It = was very=20 good, but I could not determine if it was a spring or not. We were not = obliged=20 to make the well deep for it flowed as fast as we emptied it, which, as = the soil=20 was apparently too loose to retain water from the rains, renders it = probable to=20 be a spring. On the south side of the island likewise we found a small = run of=20 good water.

Besides places where fires had been made there were other signs of = the=20 natives sometimes resorting to this island. I saw two ill-constructed = huts or=20 wigwams which had only one side loosely covered, and a pointed stick was = found,=20 about three feet long, with a slit in the end of it to sling stones = with, the=20 same as the natives of Van Diemen's land use.

The track of some animal was very discernible and Nelson agreed with = me that=20 it was the kangaroo; but whether these animals swim over from the = mainland, or=20 are brought here by the natives to breed, it is impossible to determine. = The=20 latter is not improbable as they may be taken with less difficulty in a = confined=20 spot like this than on the continent.

The island is about a league in circuit: it is a high lump of rocks = and=20 stones covered with wood; but the trees are small, the soil, which is = very=20 indifferent and sandy, being barely sufficient to produce them. The = trees that=20 came within our knowledge were the manchineal and a species of purow; = also some=20 palm trees, the tops of which we cut down, and the soft interior part or = heart=20 of them was so palatable that it made a good addition to our mess. = Nelson=20 discovered some fern-roots which I thought might be good roasted as a = substitute=20 for bread, but in this I was mistaken: it however was very serviceable = in its=20 natural state to allay thirst, and on that account I directed a quantity = to be=20 collected to take into the boat. Many pieces of coconut shells and husk = were=20 found about the shore, but we could find no coconut trees, neither did I = see any=20 on the main.

I had cautioned the people not to touch any kind of berry or fruit = that they=20 might find; yet they were no sooner out of my sight than they began to = make free=20 with three different kinds that grew all over the island, eating without = any=20 reserve. The symptoms of having eaten too much began at last to frighten = some of=20 them but, on questioning others who had taken a more moderate allowance, = their=20 minds were a little quieted. The others however became equally alarmed = in their=20 turn, dreading that such symptoms would come on, and that they were all=20 poisoned, so that they regarded each other with the strongest marks of=20 apprehension, uncertain what would be the issue of their imprudence. = Fortunately=20 the fruit proved wholesome and good. One sort grew on a small delicate = kind of=20 vine; they were the size of a large gooseberry and very like in = substance, but=20 had only a sweet taste; the skin was a pale red, streaked with yellow = the long=20 way of the fruit: it was pleasant and agreeable. Another kind grew on = bushes=20 like that which is called the seaside grape in the West Indies, but the = fruit=20 was very different, being more like elderberries, and grew in clusters = in the=20 same manner. The third sort was a blackberry; this was not in such = plenty as the=20 others and resembled a bullace, or large kind of sloe, both in size and = taste.=20 When I saw that these fruits were eaten by the birds I no longer doubted = of=20 their being wholesome, and those who had already tried the experiment, = not=20 finding any bad effect, made it a certainty that we might eat of them = without=20 danger.

Wild pigeons, parrots, and other birds were about the summit of the = island=20 but, having no firearms, relief of that kind was not to be expected = unless we=20 should find some unfrequented spot where the birds were so tame that we = might=20 take them with our hands.

The shore of this island is very rocky except the place at which we = landed,=20 and here I picked up many pieces of pumice-stone. On the part of the = main=20 nearest to us were several sandy bays which at low water became an = extensive=20 rocky flat. The country had rather a barren appearance except in a few = places=20 where it was covered with wood. A remarkable range of rocks lay a few = miles to=20 the south-west, and a high peaked hill seemed to terminate the coast = towards the=20 sea, with islands to the southward. A high fair cape showed the = direction of the=20 coast to the north-west about seven leagues distant; and two small isles = lay=20 three or four leagues to the northward of our present station.

I saw a few bees or wasps and several lizards; and the blackberry = bushes were=20 full of ants nests, webbed like a spider's but so close and compact as = not to=20 admit the rain. A trunk of a tree about 50 feet long lay on the beach, = from=20 which I conclude that a heavy sea sets in here with a northerly = wind.

This day being the anniversary of the restoration of King Charles the = Second,=20 and the name not being inapplicable to our present situation (for we = were=20 restored to fresh life and strength) I named this Restoration Island; = for I=20 thought it probable that Captain Cook might not have taken notice of it. = The=20 other names which I have presumed to give the different parts of the = coast are=20 meant only to show my route more distinctly.

At noon I observed the latitude of the island to be 12 degrees 39 = minutes=20 south, our course having been north 66 degrees west, distance 18 miles = from=20 yesterday noon. The wind was at east-south-east with very fine = weather.

In the afternoon I sent parties out again to gather oysters, with = which and=20 some of the inner part of the palm-top we made another good stew for = supper,=20 each person receiving a full pint and a half; but I refused bread to = this meal=20 for I considered that our wants might yet be very great, and was intent = on=20 saving our principal support whenever it was in my power. After supper = we again=20 divided and those who were on shore slept by a good fire.

Saturday 30.

In the morning I discovered a visible alteration in our company for = the=20 better, and I sent them away again to gather oysters. We had now only = two pounds=20 of pork left. This article, which I could not keep under lock and key as = I did=20 the bread, had been pilfered by some inconsiderate person, but everyone = denied=20 having any knowledge of this act; I therefore resolved to put it out of = their=20 power for the future by sharing what remained for our dinner. While the = party=20 was out picking up oysters I got the boat in readiness for sea, and = filled all=20 our water vessels, which amounted to nearly 60 gallons.

The party being returned, dinner was soon ready, which was as = plentiful a=20 meal as the supper on the preceding evening, and with the pork I gave an = allowance of bread. As it was not yet noon I sent the people once more = to gather=20 oysters for a sea store, recommending to them to be as diligent as = possible for=20 that I was determined to sail in the afternoon.

At noon I again observed the latitude 12 degrees 39 minutes south; it = was=20 then high-water, the tide had risen three feet, but I could not be = certain from=20 whence the flood came. I deduce the time of high-water at full and = change to be=20 ten minutes past seven in the morning.

Early in the afternoon the people returned with the few oysters that = they had=20 collected and everything was put into the boat. I then examined the = quantity of=20 bread remaining and found 38 days allowance, according to the last mode = of=20 issuing a 25th of a pound at breakfast and at dinner.

Fair weather and moderate breezes at east-south-east and = south-east.

Being ready for sea I directed every person to attend prayers. At = four=20 o'clock we were preparing to embark when about twenty of the natives = appeared,=20 running and hallooing to us, on the opposite shore. They were each armed = with a=20 spear or lance and a short weapon which they carried in their left hand: = they=20 made signs for us to come to them. On the top of the hills we saw the = heads of=20 many more: whether these were their wives and children or others who = waited for=20 our landing, meaning not to show themselves lest we might be = intimidated, I=20 cannot say but, as I found we were discovered to be on the coast, I = thought it=20 prudent to make the best of our way for fear of being pursued by canoes, = though,=20 from the accounts of Captain Cook, the chance was that there were very = few if=20 any of consequence on any part of the coast. I passed these people as = near as I=20 could with safety: they were naked and apparently black, and their hair = or wool=20 bushy and short.

I directed my course within two small islands that lie to the north = of=20 Restoration Island, passing between them and the mainland towards Fair = Cape with=20 a strong tide in my favour, so that I was abreast of it by eight = o'clock. The=20 coast we passed was high and woody. As I could see no land without Fair = Cape I=20 concluded that the coast inclined to the north-west and west-north-west: = I=20 therefore steered more towards the west; but by eleven o'clock at night = we met=20 with low land which inclined to the north-east, and at three o'clock in = the=20 morning I found that we were embayed, which obliged us to stand back for = a short=20 time to the southward.

Sunday 31.

At daybreak I was exceedingly surprised to find the appearance of the = country=20 entirely changed, as if in the course of the night we had been = transported to=20 another part of the world; for we had now a low sandy coast in view, = with very=20 little verdure or anything to indicate that it was at all habitable to a = human=20 being except a few patches of small trees or brushwood.

Many small islands were in sight to the north-east about six miles = distant.=20 The eastern part of the main bore north four miles, and Fair Cape=20 south-south-east five or six leagues. I took the channel between the = nearest=20 island and the mainland, which were about one mile apart, leaving all = the=20 islands on the starboard side. Some of these were very pretty spots, = covered=20 with wood and well situated for fishing: large shoals of fish were about = us but=20 we could not catch any. In passing this strait we saw another party of = Indians,=20 seven in number, running towards us, shouting and making signs for us to = land.=20 Some of them waved green branches of the bushes which were near them as = a token=20 of friendship; but some of their other motions were less friendly. A = little=20 farther off we saw a larger party who likewise came towards us. I = therefore=20 determined not to land though I much wished to have had some intercourse = with=20 these people. Nevertheless I laid the boat close to the rocks and = beckoned to=20 them to approach but none of them would come within 200 yards of us. = They were=20 armed in the same manner as the people we had seen from Restoration = Island; they=20 were stark naked, their colour black, with short bushy hair or wool, and = in=20 their appearance were similar to them in every respect. An island of a = good=20 height bore north half west four miles from us, at which I resolved to = land and=20 from thence to take a look at the coast. At this isle we arrived about = eight=20 o'clock in the morning. The shore was rocky but the water was smooth and = we=20 landed without difficulty. I sent two parties out, one to the northward = and the=20 other to the southward, to seek for supplies, and others I ordered to = stay by=20 the boat. On this occasion fatigue and weakness so far got the better of = their=20 sense of duty that some of the people expressed their discontent at = having=20 worked harder than their companions, and declared that they would rather = be=20 without their dinner than go in search of it. One person in particular = went so=20 far as to tell me, with a mutinous look, that he was as good a man as = myself. It=20 was not possible for me to judge where this might have an end if not = stopped in=20 time, therefore to prevent such disputes in future I determined either = to=20 preserve my command or die in the attempt and, seizing a cutlass, I = ordered him=20 to take hold of another and defend himself, on which he called out that = I was=20 going to kill him and immediately made concessions. I did not allow this = to=20 interfere further with the harmony of the boat's crew and everything = soon became=20 quiet.

The parties continued collecting what they could find, which were = some fine=20 oysters and clams and a few small dog-fish that were caught in the holes = of the=20 rocks. We also found some rainwater in the hollow of the rocks on the = north part=20 of the island, so that of this essential article we were again so = fortunate as=20 to obtain a full supply.

After regulating the mode of proceeding I walked to the highest part = of the=20 island to consider our route for the night. To my surprise no more of = the=20 mainland could be seen here than from below, the northernmost part in = sight,=20 which was full of sandhills bearing west by north about three leagues. = Except=20 the isles to the east-south-east and south that we had passed I could = only=20 discover a small key north-west by north. As this was considerably = farther from=20 the main than the spot on which we were at present I judged it would be = a more=20 secure resting-place for the night, for here we were liable to an = attack, if the=20 Indians had canoes, as they undoubtedly must have observed our landing. = My mind=20 being made up on this point I returned after taking a particular look at = the=20 island we were on, which I found only to produce a few bushes and some = coarse=20 grass, the extent of the whole not being two miles in circuit. On the = north side=20 in a sandy bay I saw an old canoe about 33 feet long, lying bottom = upwards and=20 half buried in the beach. It was made of three pieces, the bottom = entire, to=20 which the sides were sewed in the common way. It had a sharp projecting = prow=20 rudely carved in resemblance of the head of a fish; the extreme breadth = was=20 about three feet and I imagine it was capable of carrying 20 men. The = discovery=20 of so large a canoe confirmed me in the purpose of seeking a more = retired place=20 for our night's lodging.

At noon the parties were all returned but had found much difficulty = in=20 gathering the oysters from their close adherence to the rocks, and the = clams=20 were scarce: I therefore saw that it would be of little use to remain = longer in=20 this place, as we should not be able to collect more than we could eat. = I named=20 this Sunday Island: it lies north by west three-quarters west from = Restoration=20 Island; the latitude by a good observation 11 degrees 58 minutes = south.

We had a fresh breeze at south-east by south with fair weather. At = two=20 o'clock in the afternoon we dined, each person having a full pint and a = half of=20 stewed oysters and clams, thickened with small beans which Nelson = informed me=20 were a species of Dolichos. Having eaten heartily and completed our = water I=20 waited to determine the time of high-water, which I found to be at three = o'clock, and the rise of the tide about five feet. According to this it = is=20 high-water on the full and change at 19 minutes past 9 in the morning: I = observed the flood to come from the southward, though at Restoration = Island I=20 thought it came from the northward. I think Captain Cook mentions that = he found=20 great irregularity in the set of the flood on this coast.

We steered for the key seen in the north-west by north where we = arrived just=20 at dark, but found it so surrounded by a reef of rocks that I could not = land=20 without danger of staving the boat; and on that account we came to a = grapnel for=20 the night.

Monday June 1.

At dawn of day we got on shore and tracked the boat into shelter for, = the=20 wind blowing fresh without and the ground being rocky, it was not safe = to trust=20 her at a grapnel lest she should be blown to sea: I was therefore = obliged to let=20 her ground in the course of the ebb. From appearances I expected that if = we=20 remained till night we should meet with turtle as we discovered recent = tracks of=20 them. Innumerable birds of a noddy kind made this island their = resting-place; so=20 that we had reason to flatter ourselves with hopes of getting supplies = in=20 greater abundance than it had hitherto been in our power. Our situation = was at=20 least four leagues distant from the main. We were on the = north-westernmost of=20 four small keys which were surrounded by a reef of rocks connected by = sandbanks=20 except between the two northernmost, and there likewise it was dry at = low water,=20 the whole forming a lagoon island into which the tide flowed: at this = entrance I=20 kept the boat.

As usual I sent parties away in search of supplies but, to our great=20 disappointment, we could only get a few clams and some dolichos: with = these and=20 the oysters we had brought from Sunday Island I made up a mess for = dinner with=20 the addition of a small quantity of bread.

Towards noon Nelson and some others who had been to the easternmost = key=20 returned, but Nelson was in so weak a condition that he was obliged to = be=20 supported by two men. His complaint was a violent heat in his bowels, a = loss of=20 sight, much drought, and an inability to walk. This I found was = occasioned by=20 his being unable to support the heat of the sun and that, when he was = fatigued=20 and faint, instead of retiring into the shade to rest he had continued = to=20 attempt more than his strength was equal to. I was glad to find that he = had no=20 fever; and it was now that the little wine which I had so carefully = saved became=20 of real use. I gave it in very small quantities with some pieces of = bread soaked=20 in it; and he soon began to recover. The boatswain and carpenter also = were ill=20 and complained of headache and sickness of the stomach. Others who had = not had=20 any evacuation by stool became shockingly distressed with the tenesmus = so that=20 there were but few without complaints. An idea prevailed that the = sickness of=20 the boatswain and carpenter was occasioned by eating the dolichos. = Myself=20 however and some others who had taken the same food felt no = inconvenience; but=20 the truth was that many of the people had eaten a large quantity of them = raw,=20 and Nelson informed me that they were constantly teasing him whenever a = berry=20 was found to know if it was good to eat; so that it would not have been=20 surprising if many of them had been really poisoned.

Our dinner was not so well relished as at Sunday Island because we = had mixed=20 the dolichos with our stew. The oysters and soup however were eaten by = everyone=20 except Nelson whom I fed with a few small pieces of bread soaked in half = a glass=20 of wine, and he continued to mend.

In my walk round the island I found several coconut shells, the = remains of an=20 old wigwam, and the backs of two turtless, but no sign of any quadruped. = One of=20 the people found three seafowl's eggs.

As is common on such spots the soil is little other than sand, yet it = produced small toa-trees and some others that we were not acquainted = with. There=20 were fish in the lagoon, but we could not catch any. Our wants therefore = were=20 not likely to be supplied here, not even with water for our daily = expense:=20 nevertheless I determined to wait till the morning, that we might try = our=20 success in the night for turtle and birds. A quiet night's rest also, I=20 conceived, would be of essential service to those who were unwell.

The wigwam and turtle shell were proofs that the natives at times = visited=20 this place, and that they had canoes the remains of the large canoe that = we saw=20 at Sunday Island left no room to doubt: but I did not apprehend that we = ran any=20 risk by remaining here a short time. I directed our fire however to be = made in=20 the thicket that we might not be discovered by its light.

At noon I observed the latitude of this island to be 11 degrees 47 = minutes=20 south. The mainland extended towards the north-west and was full of = white=20 sandhills: another small island lay within us, bearing west by north one = quarter=20 north three leagues distant. Our situation being very low we could see = nothing=20 of the reef towards the sea.

The afternoon was advantageously spent in sleep. There were however a = few not=20 disposed to it, and those were employed in dressing some clams to take = with us=20 for the next day's dinner: others we cut up in slices to dry, which I = knew was=20 the most valuable supply we could find here, but they were very = scarce.

Towards evening I cautioned everyone against making too large a fire = or=20 suffering it after dark to blaze up. Mr. Samuel and Mr. Peckover had=20 superintendence of this business, while I was strolling about the beach = to=20 observe if I thought it could be seen from the main. I was just = satisfied that=20 it could not when on a sudden the island appeared all in a blaze that = might have=20 been discerned at a much more considerable distance. I ran to learn the = cause=20 and found that it was occasioned by the imprudence and obstinacy of one = of the=20 party who in my absence had insisted on having a fire to himself, in = making=20 which the flames caught the neighbouring grass and rapidly spread. This=20 misconduct might have produced very serious consequences by discovering = our=20 situation to the natives for, if they had attacked us, we had neither = arms nor=20 strength to oppose an enemy. Thus the relief which I expected from a = little=20 sleep was totally lost and I anxiously waited for the flowing of the = tide that=20 we might proceed to sea.

It was high-water at half-past five this evening whence I deduced the = time on=20 the full and change of the moon to be 58 past 10 in the morning: the = rise was=20 nearly five feet. I could not observe the set of the flood but imagined = it to=20 come from the southward, and that I was mistaken at Restoration Island = as I=20 found the time of high-water gradually later the more we advanced to the = northward.

At Restoration Island high-water full and change : 7 hours 10. Sunday = Island=20 high-water full and change : 9 hours 19. Here high-water full and change = : 10=20 hours 58.

After eight o'clock Mr. Samuel and Mr. Peckover went out to watch for = turtle=20 and three men went to the east key to endeavour to catch birds. All the = others,=20 complaining of being sick, took their rest, except Mr. Hayward and Mr.=20 Elphinston whom I directed to keep watch. About midnight the bird party = returned=20 with only twelve noddies, birds which I have already described to be = about the=20 size of pigeons: but if it had not been for the folly and obstinacy of = one of=20 the party, who separated from the other two and disturbed the birds, = they might=20 have caught a great number. I was so much provoked at my plans being = thus=20 defeated that I gave this offender a good beating.* I now went in search = of the=20 turtling party who had taken great pains but without success. This did = not=20 surprise me as it was not to be expected that turtle would come near us = after=20 the noise which had been made at the beginning of the evening in = extinguishing=20 the fire. I therefore desired them to come back, but they requested to = stay a=20 little longer as they still hoped to find some before daylight: however = they=20 returned by three o'clock without any reward for their labour.

(*Footnote. Robert lamb. This man when he came to Java=20 acknowledged he had eaten nine birds raw after he separated from his = two=20 companions.)

Tuesday 2.

The birds we half dressed that they might keep the better: and these = with a=20 few clams made the whole of the supply procured here. I tied a few gilt = buttons=20 and some pieces of iron to a tree for any of the natives that might come = after=20 us and, finding my invalids much better for their night's rest, we = embarked and=20 departed by dawn of day. Wind at south-east; course to the north by = west.

When we had run two leagues to the northward the sea suddenly became = rough=20 which, not having before experienced since we were within the reefs, I = concluded=20 to be occasioned by an open channel to the ocean. Soon afterwards we met = with a=20 large shoal on which were two sandy keys; between these and two others, = four=20 miles to the west, I passed on to the northward, the sea still = continuing to be=20 rough.

Towards noon I fell in with six other keys, most of which produced = some small=20 trees and brushwood. These formed a pleasing contrast with the mainland = we had=20 passed which was full of sandhills. The country continued hilly and the=20 northernmost land, the same we had seen from the lagoon island, appeared = like=20 downs, sloping towards the sea. Nearly abreast of us was a flat-topped = hill=20 which on account of its shape I called Pudding-pan hill; and a little to = the=20 northward were two other hills which we called the Paps; and here was a = small=20 tract of country without sand, the eastern part of which forms a cape = whence the=20 coast inclines to the north-west by north.

At noon I observed in the latitude of 11 degrees 18 minutes south the = cape=20 bearing west distant ten miles. Five small keys bore from north-east to=20 south-east, the nearest of them about two miles distant, and a low sandy = key=20 between us and the cape bore west distant four miles. My course from the = lagoon=20 island had been north half west distant 30 miles.

I am sorry it was not in my power to obtain a sufficient knowledge of = the=20 depth of water but in our situation nothing could be undertaken that = might have=20 occasioned delay. It may however be understood that to the best of my = judgment=20 from appearances a ship may pass wherever I have omitted to represent=20 danger.

I divided six birds and issued one 25th of a pound of bread with half = a pint=20 of water to each person for dinner, and I gave half a glass of wine to = Nelson,=20 who was now so far recovered as to require no other indulgence.

The gunner when he left the ship brought his watch with him, by which = we had=20 regulated out time till today, when unfortunately it stopped; so that = noon,=20 sunrise, and sunset, are the only parts of the 24 hours of which from=20 henceforward I can speak with certainty as to time.

The wind blew fresh from the south-south-east and south-east all the=20 afternoon with fair weather. As we stood to the north by west we found = more sea,=20 which I attributed to our receiving less shelter from the reefs to the = eastward:=20 it is probable they did not extend so far north as this; at least it may = be=20 concluded that there is not a continued barrier to prevent shipping = having=20 access to the shore. I observed that the stream set to the north-west, = which I=20 considered to be the flood. In some places along the coast we saw = patches of=20 wood. At five o'clock, steering to the north-west, we passed a large and = fair=20 inlet into which I imagine there is a safe and commodious entrance; it = lies in=20 latitude 11 degrees south. About three leagues to the northward of this = is an=20 island, at which we arrived about sunset, and took shelter for the night = under a=20 sandy point which was the only part we could land at. This being rather = a wild=20 situation I thought it best to sleep in the boat: nevertheless I sent a = party=20 away to see if anything could be got, but they returned without success. = They=20 saw a great number of turtle bones and shells where the natives had been = feasting, and their last visit seemed to be of late date. The island was = covered=20 with wood, but in other respects it was a lump of rocks.

Wednesday 3.

We lay at a grapnel till daylight with a very fresh gale and cloudy = weather.=20 The main bore from south-east by south to north-north-west half west = three=20 leagues, and a mountainous island with a flat top, north by west four or = five=20 leagues, between which and the mainland were several other islands. The = spot we=20 were at, which I call Turtle Island, lies in latitude by account 10 = degrees 52=20 minutes south and 42 miles west from Restoration Island. Abreast of it = the coast=20 has the appearance of a sandy desert, but improves about three leagues = farther=20 to the northward where it terminates in a point, near to which are many = small=20 islands. I sailed between these islands where I found no bottom at = twelve=20 fathoms; the high mountainous island with a flat top and four rocks to = the=20 south-east of it, that I call the Brothers, being on my starboard hand. = Soon=20 after an extensive opening appeared in the mainland, in which were a = number of=20 high islands. I called this the Bay of Islands. We continued steering to = the=20 north-west. Several islands and keys were in sight to the northward: the = most=20 northerly island was mountainous, having on it a very high round hill, = and a=20 smaller was remarkable for a single peaked hill.

The coast to the northward and westward of the Bay of Islands is high = and=20 woody and has a broken appearance, with many islands close to it, among = which=20 there are fine bays and convenient places for shipping. The northernmost = of=20 these islands I call Wednesday Island: to the north-west of this we fell = in with=20 a large reef which I believe joins a number of keys that were in sight = from the=20 north-west to the east-north-east. We therefore stood to the south-west = half a=20 league when it was noon, and I had a good observation of the latitude in = 10=20 degrees 31 minutes south. Wednesday Island bore east by south five = miles; the=20 westernmost land in sight south-west two or three leagues; the islands = to the=20 northward from north-west by west to north-east, and the reef from west = to=20 north-east distant one mile. I was now tolerably certain that we should = be clear=20 of New Holland in the afternoon.

I know not how far this reef extends. It may be a continuation or a = detached=20 part of the range of shoals that surround the coast. I believe the = mountainous=20 islands to be separate from the shoals, and have no doubt that near them = may be=20 found good passages for ships. But I rather recommend to those who are = to pass=20 this strait from the eastward to take their direction from the coast of = New=20 Guinea: yet I likewise think that a ship coming from the southward will = find a=20 fair strait in the latitude of 10 degrees south. I much wished to have=20 ascertained this point but in our distressful situation any increase of = fatigue=20 or loss of time might have been attended with the most fatal = consequences. I=20 therefore determined to pass on without delay.

As an addition to our dinner of bread and water I served to each = person six=20 oysters.

At two o'clock in the afternoon as we were steering to the south-west = towards=20 the westernmost part of the land in sight we fell in with some large = sandbanks=20 that run off from the coast: I therefore called this Shoal Cape. We were = obliged=20 to steer to the northward again till we got round the shoals, when I = directed=20 the course to the west.

At four o'clock the westernmost of the islands to the northward bore = north=20 four leagues; Wednesday Island east by north five leagues, and shoal = cape=20 south-east by east two leagues. A small island was seen bearing west, at = which=20 we arrived before dark and found that it was only a rock where boobies = resort,=20 for which reason I called it Booby Island. Here terminated the rocks and = shoals=20 of the north part of New Holland for except Booby Island no land was = seen to the=20 westward of south after three o'clock this afternoon.

I find that Booby island was seen by Captain Cook and, by a = remarkable=20 coincidence of ideas, received from him the same name, but I cannot with = certainty reconcile the situation of some parts of the coast that I have = seen to=20 his survey. I ascribe this to the various forms in which land appears = when seen=20 from the different heights of a ship and a boat. The chart I have given = is by no=20 means meant to supersede that made by Captain Cook, who had better = opportunities=20 than I had and was in every respect properly provided for surveying. The = intention of mine is chiefly to render this narrative more intelligible, = and to=20 show in what manner the coast appeared to me from an open boat. I have = little=20 doubt but that the opening which I named the Bay of Islands is Endeavour = Straits; and that our track was to the northward of Prince of Wales' = Isles.=20 Perhaps, by those who shall hereafter navigate these seas, more = advantage may be=20 derived from the possession of both our charts than from either of them=20 singly.

3D""=20=
NE=20 Coast of New Holland.
a a Track of Lt. Bligh in the Bounty's = Launch.

CHAPTER 17.

Passage from New Holland to the Island Timor.
Arrive = at=20 Coupang. Reception there.

June 1789.

Wednesday 3.

At eight o'clock in the evening we once more launched into the open = ocean.=20 Miserable as our situation was in every respect I was secretly surprised = to see=20 that it did not appear to affect anyone so strongly as myself; on the = contrary=20 it seemed as if they had embarked on a voyage to Timor in a vessel = sufficiently=20 calculated for safety and convenience. So much confidence gave me great = pleasure=20 and I may venture to assert that to this cause our preservation is = chiefly to be=20 attributed.

I encouraged everyone with hopes that eight or ten days would bring = us to a=20 land of safety; and, after praying to God for a continuance of his most = gracious=20 protection, I served an allowance of water for supper and directed our = course to=20 the west-south-west to counteract the southerly winds in case they = should blow=20 strong.

We had been just six days on the coast of New Holland in the course = of which=20 we found oysters, a few clams, some birds, and water. But perhaps a = benefit=20 nearly equal to this we received by having been relieved from the = fatigue of=20 being constantly in the boat and enjoying good rest at night. These = advantages=20 certainly preserved our lives and, small as the supply was, I am very = sensible=20 how much it alleviated our distresses. By this time nature must have = sunk under=20 the extremes of hunger and fatigue. Some would have ceased to struggle = for a=20 life that only promised wretchedness and misery; and others, though = possessed of=20 more bodily strength, must soon have followed their unfortunate = companions. Even=20 in our present situation we were most deplorable objects; but the hopes = of a=20 speedy relief kept up our spirits. For my own part, incredible as it may = appear,=20 I felt neither extreme hunger nor thirst. My allowance contented me, = knowing=20 that I could have no more.

Thursday 4.

I served one 25th of a pound of bread and an allowance of water for = breakfast=20 and the same for dinner with an addition of six oysters to each person. = At noon=20 latitude observed 10 degrees 48 minutes south; course since yesterday = noon south=20 81 degrees west, distance 111 miles; longitude by account from Shoal = Cape 1=20 degree 45 minutes west. A strong tradewind at east-south-east with fair=20 weather.

This day we saw a number of water-snakes that were ringed yellow and = black,=20 and towards noon we passed a great deal of rock-weed. Though the weather = was=20 fair we were constantly shipping water, which kept two men always = employed to=20 bale the boat.

Friday 5.

At noon I observed in latitude 10 degrees 45 minutes south; our = course since=20 yesterday west one quarter north, 108 miles; longitude made 3 degrees 35 = minutes=20 west. Six oysters were, as yesterday, served to each man, in addition to = the=20 usual allowance of bread and water.

In the evening a few boobies came about us, one of which I caught = with my=20 hand. The blood was divided among three of the men who were weakest, but = the=20 bird I ordered to be kept for our dinner the next day. Served a quarter = of a=20 pint of water for supper, and to some who were most in need half a pint. = In the=20 course of the night, being constantly wet with the sea, we suffered much = cold=20 and shiverings.

Saturday 6.

At daylight I found that some of the clams which had been hung up to = dry for=20 sea-store were stolen; but everyone solemnly denied having any knowledge = of it.=20 This forenoon we saw a gannet, a sand-lark and some water-snakes which = in=20 general were from two or three feet long.

The usual allowance of bread and water was served for breakfast, and = the same=20 for dinner with the bird, which I distributed in the usual way, of Who = shall=20 have this? I proposed to make Timor about the latitude of 9 degrees 30 = minutes=20 south, or 10 degrees south. At noon I observed the latitude to be 10 = degrees 19=20 minutes south; course north 77 degrees west, distance 117 miles; = longitude made=20 from the Shoal Cape, the north part of New Holland, 5 degrees 31 minutes = west.

In the afternoon I took an opportunity of examining our store of = bread, and=20 found remaining 19 days allowance, at the former rate of serving one = 25th of a=20 pound three times a day: therefore, as I saw every prospect of a quick = passage,=20 I again ventured to grant an allowance for supper, agreeable to my = promise at=20 the time it was discontinued.

Sunday 7.

We passed the night miserably wet and cold and in the morning I heard = heavy=20 complaints. The sea was high and breaking over us. I could only afford = the=20 allowance of bread and water for breakfast, but for dinner I gave out an = ounce=20 of dried clams to each person, which was all that remained.

At noon I altered the course to the west-north-west to keep more from = the=20 sea, as the wind blew strong. Latitude observed 9 degrees 31 minutes = south;=20 course north 57 degrees west, distance 88 miles; longitude made 6 = degrees 46=20 minutes west.

The sea ran very high all this day and we had frequent showers of = rain so=20 that we were continually wet and suffered much cold in the night. Mr. = Ledward=20 the surgeon, and Lawrence Lebogue, an old hardy seaman, appeared to be = giving=20 way very fast. I could only assist them by a teaspoonful or two of wine = which I=20 had carefully saved, expecting such a melancholy necessity.

Monday 8.

Wind at south-east. The weather was more moderate than it had been = for some=20 days past. A few gannets were seen. At noon I observed in 8 degrees 45 = minutes=20 south; course west-north-west one quarter west, 106 miles; longitude = made 8=20 degrees 23 minutes west. The sea being smooth I steered west by = south.

At four in the afternoon we caught a small dolphin, which was the = first=20 relief of the kind that we obtained. I issued about two ounces to each = person,=20 including the offals, and saved the remainder for dinner the next day. = Towards=20 evening the wind freshened and it blew strong all night, so that we = shipped much=20 water and suffered greatly from the wet and cold.

Tuesday 9.

At daylight as usual I heard much complaining, which my own feelings=20 convinced me was too well founded. I gave the surgeon the Lebogue a = little wine=20 but I could afford them no farther relief except encouraging them with = hopes=20 that a very few days longer, at our present fine rate of sailing, would = bring us=20 to Timor.

Gannets, boobies, men of war and tropic birds, were constantly about = us.=20 Served the usual allowance of bread and water and at noon we dined on = the=20 remains of the dolphin, which amounted to about an ounce per man. I = observed the=20 latitude to be 9 degrees 9 minutes south; longitude made 10 degrees 8 = minutes=20 west; course since yesterday noon south 76 degrees west; distance 107 = miles.

This afternoon I suffered great sickness from the nature of part of = the=20 stomach of the fish which had fallen to my share at dinner. At sunset = served an=20 allowance of bread and water for supper.

Wednesday 10.

In the morning after a very comfortless night there was a visible = alteration=20 for the worse in many of the people which gave me great apprehensions. = An=20 extreme weakness, swelled legs, hollow and ghastly countenances, a more = than=20 common inclination to sleep, with an apparent debility of understanding, = seemed=20 to me the melancholy presages of an approaching dissolution. The surgeon = and=20 Lebogue, in particular, were most miserable objects. I occasionally gave = them a=20 few teaspoonfuls of wine out of the little that remained, which greatly = assisted=20 them. The hopes of being able to accomplish the voyage was our principal = support. The boatswain very innocently told me that he really thought I = looked=20 worse than anyone in the boat. The simplicity with which he uttered such = an=20 opinion amused me and I returned him a better compliment.

Our latitude at noon was 9 degrees 16 minutes south. Longitude from = the north=20 part of New Holland 12 degrees 1 minute west. Course since yesterday = noon west=20 half south 111 miles. Birds and rock-weed showed that we were not far = from land,=20 but I expected such signs here as there are many islands between the = east part=20 of Timor and New Guinea. The night was more moderate than the last.

Thursday 11.

Everyone received the customary allowance of bread and water, and an = extra=20 allowance of water was given to those who were most in need. At noon I = observed=20 in latitude 9 degrees 41 minutes south; course 77 degrees west, distance = 109=20 miles; longitude made 13 degrees 49 minutes west. I had little doubt of = having=20 now passed the meridian of the eastern part of Timor which is laid down = in 128=20 degrees east. This diffused universal joy and satisfaction.

In the afternoon we saw gannets and many other birds, and at sunset = we kept a=20 very anxious lookout. In the evening we caught a booby which I reserved = for our=20 dinner the next day.

Friday 12.

At three in the morning, with an excess of joy, we discovered Timor = bearing=20 from west-south-west to west-north-west, and I hauled on a wind to the=20 north-north-east till daylight, when the land bore from south-west by = south to=20 north-east by north. Our distance from the shore two leagues.

It is not possible for me to describe the pleasure which the blessing = of the=20 sight of this land diffused among us. It appeared scarce credible to = ourselves=20 that, in an open boat and so poorly provided, we should have been able = to reach=20 the coast of Timor in forty-one days after leaving Tofoa, having in that = time=20 run, by our log, a distance of 3618 miles; and that, notwithstanding our = extreme=20 distress, no one should have perished in the voyage.

I have already mentioned that I knew not where the Dutch settlement = was=20 situated but I had a faint idea that it was at the south-west part of = the=20 island. I therefore, after daylight, bore away alongshore to the=20 south-south-west, which I was the more readily induced to do as the wind = would=20 not suffer us to go towards the north-east without great loss of = time.

The day gave us a most agreeable prospect of the land which was = interspersed=20 with woods and lawns; the interior part mountainous, but the shore low. = Towards=20 noon the coast became higher with some remarkable headlands. We were = greatly=20 delighted with the general look of the country which exhibited many = cultivated=20 spots and beautiful situations; but we could only see a few small huts = whence I=20 concluded that no European resided in this part of the island. Much sea = ran on=20 the shore which made landing impracticable. At noon we were abreast of a = high=20 headland; the extremes of the land bore south-west half west, and=20 north-north-east half east; our distance offshore being three miles; = latitude by=20 observation 9 degrees 59 minutes south; and my longitude by dead = reckoning from=20 the north part of New Holland 15 degrees 6 minutes west.

With the usual allowance of bread and water for dinner I divided the = bird we=20 had caught the night before, and to the surgeon and Lebogue I gave a = little=20 wine.

The wind blew fresh at east and east-south-east with very hazy = weather.=20 During the afternoon we continued our course along a low shore covered = with=20 innumerable palm-trees, called the Fan Palm from the leaf spreading like = a fan;=20 but here we saw no signs of cultivation, nor had the country so fine an=20 appearance as to the eastward. This however was only a small tract, for = by=20 sunset it improved again and I saw several great smokes where the = inhabitants=20 were clearing and cultivating their grounds. We had now run 25 miles to = the=20 west-south-west since noon and were west five miles from a low point = which, in=20 the afternoon, I imagined had been the southernmost land, and here the = coast=20 formed a deep bend with low land in the bight that appeared like = islands. The=20 west shore was high; but from this part of the coast to the high cape = which we=20 were abreast of at noon the shore is low and I believe shoal. I = particularly=20 remark this situation because here the very high ridge of mountains that = run=20 from the east end of the island, terminate, and the appearance of the = country=20 changes for the worse.

That we might not run past any settlement in the night I determined = to=20 preserve my station till the morning and therefore brought to under a=20 close-reefed foresail. We were here in shoal water, our distance from = the shore=20 being half a league, the westernmost land in sight bearing = west-south-west half=20 west. Served bread and water for supper and, the boat lying to very = well, all=20 but the officer of the watch endeavoured to get a little sleep.

Saturday 13.

At two in the morning we wore and stood in shore till daylight when I = found=20 we had drifted during the night about three leagues to the = west-south-west, the=20 southernmost land in sight bearing west. On examining the coast and not = seeing=20 any sign of a settlement we bore away to the westward having a strong = gale=20 against a weather current which occasioned much sea. The shore was high = and=20 covered with wood, but we did not run far before low land again formed = the=20 coast, the points of which opening at west I once more fancied we were = on the=20 south part of the island; but at ten o'clock we found the coast again = inclining=20 towards the south, part of it bearing west-south-west half west. At the = same=20 time high land appeared in the south-west; but the weather was so hazy = that it=20 was doubtful whether the two lands were separated, the opening only = extending=20 one point of the compass. For this reason I stood towards the outer land = and=20 found it to be the island Roti.

I returned to the shore we had left and brought to a grapnel in a = sandy bay=20 that I might more conveniently calculate my situation. In this place we = saw=20 several smokes where the natives were clearing their grounds. During the = little=20 time we remained here the master and carpenter very much importuned me = to let=20 them go in search of supplies; to which at length I assented but, not = finding=20 any other person willing to be of their party, they did not choose to = quit the=20 boat. I stopped here no longer than for the purpose just mentioned, and = we=20 continued steering alongshore. We had a view of a beautiful-looking = country as=20 if formed by art into lawns and parks. The coast is low and covered with = woods=20 in which are innumerable fan palm-trees that look like coconut walks. = The=20 interior part is high land but very different from the more eastern = parts of the=20 island where it is exceedingly mountainous and to appearance the soil=20 better.

At noon the island Roti bore south-west by west seven leagues. I had = no=20 observation for the latitude but by account we were in 10 degrees 12 = minutes=20 south; our course since yesterday noon being south 77 degrees west 54 = miles. The=20 usual allowance of bread and water was served for breakfast and dinner, = and to=20 the surgeon and Lebogue I continued to give wine.

We had a strong breeze at east-south-east with hazy weather all the=20 afternoon. At two o'clock, having run through a very dangerous breaking = sea, the=20 cause of which I attributed to be a strong tide setting to windward, and = shoal=20 water, we discovered a spacious bay or sound with a fair entrance about = two or=20 three miles wide. I now conceived hopes that our voyage was nearly at an = end as=20 no place could appear more eligible for shipping or more likely to be = chosen for=20 a European settlement: I therefore came to a grapnel near the east side = of the=20 entrance in a small sandy bay where we saw a hut, a dog, and some = cattle, and I=20 immediately sent the boatswain and gunner away to the hut to discover = the=20 inhabitants.

The south-west point of the entrance bore west half south three = miles; the=20 south-east point south by west three-quarters of a mile; and the island = Roti=20 from south by west one quarter west to south-west one quarter west about = five=20 leagues.

While we lay here I found the ebb came from the northward, and before = our=20 departure the falling of the tide discovered to us a reef of rocks about = two=20 cables length from the shore, the whole being covered at high-water = renders it=20 dangerous. On the opposite shore also appeared very high breakers; but = there is=20 nevertheless plenty of room and certainly a safe channel for a = first-rate man of=20 war.

The bay or sound within, seemed to be of a considerable extent, the = northern=20 part being about five leagues distant. Here the land made in moderate = risings=20 joined by lower grounds. But the island Roti to the southward is the = best mark=20 by which to know this place.

I had just time to make these remarks when I saw the boatswain and = gunner=20 returning with some of the natives: I therefore no longer doubted of our = success=20 and that our expectations would be fully gratified. They brought five = Indians=20 and informed me that they had found two families where the women treated = them=20 with European politeness. From these people I learned that the governor = resided=20 at a place called Coupang which was some distance to the north-east. I = made=20 signs for one of them to go in the boat and show us the way to Coupang,=20 intimating that I would pay him for his trouble: the man readily = complied and=20 came into the boat.

These people were of a dark tawny colour, had long black hair, and = chewed a=20 great deal of betel. Their dress was a square piece of cloth round the = hips in=20 the folds of which was stuck a large knife; a handkerchief wrapped round = the=20 head, and another hanging by the four corners from the shoulders, which = served=20 as a bag for their betel equipage. They brought us a few pieces of dried = turtle=20 and some ears of Indian corn. This last was the most welcome; for the = turtle was=20 so hard that it could not be eaten without being first soaked in hot = water. They=20 offered to bring us some other refreshments if I would wait, but as the = pilot=20 was willing I determined to push on. It was about half an hour past four = when we=20 sailed.

By direction of the pilot we kept close to the east shore under all = our sail;=20 but as night came on the wind died away and we were obliged to try at = the oars=20 which I was surprised to see we could use with some effect. At ten = o'clock,=20 finding we advanced but slowly, I came to a grapnel and for the first = time I=20 issued double allowance of bread and a little wine to each person.

Sunday 14.

At one o'clock in the morning, after the most happy and sweet sleep = that ever=20 men enjoyed, we weighed and continued to keep the east shore on board in = very=20 smooth water; when at last I found we were again open to the sea, the = whole of=20 the land to the westward that we had passed being an island which the = pilot=20 called Pulo Samow. The northern entrance of this channel is about a mile = and a=20 half or two miles wide and I had no ground at ten fathoms.

The report of two cannon that were fired gave new life to everyone; = and soon=20 after we discovered two square-rigged vessels and a cutter at anchor to = the=20 eastward. We endeavoured to work to windward but were obliged to take to = our=20 oars again, having lost ground on each tack. We kept close to the shore = and=20 continued rowing till four o'clock when I brought to a grapnel and gave = another=20 allowance of bread and wine to all hands. As soon as we had rested a = little we=20 weighed again, and rowed till near daylight when we came to a grapnel = off a=20 small fort and town which the pilot told me was Coupang.

Among the things which the boatswain had thrown into the boat before = we left=20 the ship was a bundle of signal flags that had been used by the boats to = show=20 the depth of water in sounding; with these we had in the course of the = passage=20 made a small jack which I now hoisted in the main shrouds as a signal of = distress, for I did not think proper to land without leave.

Soon after daybreak a soldier hailed us to land, which I immediately = did=20 among a crowd of Indians, and was agreeably surprised to meet with an = English=20 sailor who belonged to one of the vessels in the road. His captain he = told me=20 was the second person in the town; I therefore desired to be conducted = to him as=20 I was informed the governor was ill and could not then be spoken = with.

Captain Spikerman received me with great humanity. I informed him of = our=20 distressed situation; and requested that care might be taken of those = who were=20 with me without delay. On which he gave directions for their immediate = reception=20 at his own house, and went himself to the governor to know at what time = I could=20 be permitted to see him, which was fixed to be at eleven o'clock.

I now desired my people to come on shore which was as much as some of = them=20 could do, being scarce able to walk: they however were helped to the = house and=20 found tea with bread and butter provided for their breakfast.

The abilities of a painter, perhaps, could seldom have been displayed = to more=20 advantage than in the delineation of the two groups of figures which at = this=20 time presented themselves to each other. An indifferent spectator would = have=20 been at a loss which most to admire, the eyes of famine sparkling at = immediate=20 relief, or the horror of their preservers at the sight of so many = spectres,=20 whose ghastly countenances, if the cause had been unknown, would rather = have=20 excited terror than pity. Our bodies were nothing but skin and bones, = our limbs=20 were full of sores, and we were clothed in rags: in this condition, with = the=20 tears of joy and gratitude flowing down our cheeks, the people of Timor = beheld=20 us with a mixture of horror, surprise, and pity.

The governor, Mr. William Adrian van Este, notwithstanding extreme=20 ill-health, became so anxious about us that I saw him before the = appointed time.=20 He received me with great affection and gave me the fullest proofs that = he was=20 possessed of every feeling of a humane and good man. Sorry as he was, he = said,=20 that such a calamity could ever have happened to us, yet he considered = it as the=20 greatest blessing of his life that we had fallen under his protection = and,=20 though his infirmity was so great that he could not do the office of a = friend=20 himself, he would give such orders as I might be certain would procure = us every=20 supply we wanted. A house should be immediately prepared for me, and = with=20 respect to my people he said that I might have room for them either at = the=20 hospital or on board of captain Spikerman's ship which lay in the road; = and he=20 expressed much uneasiness that Coupang could not afford them better=20 accommodations, the house assigned to me being the only one uninhabited = and the=20 situation of the few families that lived at this place such that they = could not=20 conveniently receive strangers. For the present till matters could be = properly=20 regulated he gave directions that victuals for my people should be = dressed at=20 his own house.

On returning to Captain Spikerman's house I found that every kind = relief had=20 been given to my people. The surgeon had dressed their sores and the = cleaning of=20 their persons had not been less attended to, several friendly gifts of = apparel=20 having been presented to them.

I desired to be shown to the house that was intended for me, which I = found=20 ready with servants to attend. It consisted of a hall, with a room at = each end,=20 and a loft overhead; and was surrounded by a piazza with an outer = apartment in=20 one corner and a communication from the back part of the house to the = street. I=20 therefore determined, instead of separating from my people, to lodge = them all=20 with me; and I divided the house as follows: one room I took to myself, = the=20 other I allotted to the master, surgeon, Mr. Nelson, and the gunner; the = loft to=20 the other officers, and the outer apartment to the men. The hall was = common to=20 the officers and the men had the back piazza. Of this disposition I = informed the=20 governor, and he sent down chairs, tables and benches, with bedding and = other=20 necessaries for the use of everyone.

The governor when I took my leave had desired me to acquaint him with = everything of which I stood in need; but it was only at particular times = that he=20 had a few moments of ease, or could attend to anything, being in a dying = state=20 with an incurable disease. On this account I transacted whatever = business I had=20 with Mr. Timotheus Wanjon, the second of this place, who was the you = governor's=20 son-in-law, and who also contributed everything in his power to make our = situation comfortable. I had been, therefore, misinformed by the seaman = who told=20 me that captain Spikerman was the next person in command to the = governor.

At noon a dinner was brought to the house sufficiently good to make = persons=20 more accustomed to plenty eat too much. Yet I believe few in such a = situation=20 would have observed more moderation than my people did. My greatest = apprehension=20 was that they would eat too much fruit, of which there was great variety = in=20 season at this time.

Having seen everyone enjoy this meal of plenty I dined myself with = Mr.=20 Wanjon; but I felt no extraordinary inclination to eat or drink. Rest = and quiet=20 I considered as more necessary to the reestablishment of my health and = therefore=20 retired soon to my room which I found furnished with every convenience. = But=20 instead of rest my mind was disposed to reflect on our late sufferings, = and on=20 the failure of the expedition; but above all on the thanks due to = Almighty God=20 who had given us power to support and bear such heavy calamities and had = enabled=20 me at last to be the means of saving eighteen lives.

In times of difficulty there will generally arise circumstances that = bear=20 particularly hard on a commander. In our late situation it was not the = least of=20 my distresses to be constantly assailed with the melancholy demands of = my people=20 for an increase of allowance which it grieved me to refuse. The = necessity of=20 observing the most rigid economy in the distribution of our provisions = was so=20 evident that I resisted their solicitations and never deviated from the=20 agreement we made at setting out. The consequence of this care was that = at our=20 arrival we had still remaining sufficient for eleven days at our scanty=20 allowance: and if we had been so unfortunate as to have missed the Dutch = settlement at Timor we could have proceeded to Java where I was certain = that=20 every supply we wanted could be procured.

Another disagreeable circumstance to which my situation exposed me = was the=20 caprice of ignorant people. Had I been incapable of acting they would = have=20 carried the boat on shore as soon as we made the island of Timor without = considering that landing among the natives at a distance from the = European=20 settlement might have been as dangerous as among any other Indians.

The quantity of provisions with which we left the ship was not more = than we=20 should have consumed in five days had there been no necessity for = husbanding our=20 stock. The mutineers must naturally have concluded that we could have no = other=20 place of refuge than the Friendly Islands for it was not likely they = should=20 imagine that, so poorly equipped as we were in every respect, there = could have=20 been a possibility of our attempting to return homewards: much less can = they=20 suspect that the account of their villainy has already reached their = native=20 country.

When I reflect how providentially our lives were saved at Tofoa by = the=20 Indians delaying their attack and that, with scarce anything to support = life, we=20 crossed a sea of more than 1200 leagues, without shelter from the = inclemency of=20 the weather; when I reflect that in an open boat with so much stormy = weather we=20 escaped foundering, that not any of us were taken off by disease, that = we had=20 the great good fortune to pass the unfriendly natives of other countries = without=20 accident, and at last happily to meet with the most friendly and best of = people=20 to relieve our distresses; I say when I reflect on all these wonderful = escapes=20 the remembrance of such great mercies enables me to bear, with = resignation and=20 cheerfulness, the failure of an expedition the success of which I had so = much at=20 heart and which was frustrated at a time when I was congratulating = myself on the=20 fairest prospect of being able to complete it in a manner that would = fully have=20 answered the intention of His Majesty and the humane promoters of so = benevolent=20 a plan.

With respect to the preservation of our health during a course of 16 = days of=20 heavy and almost continual rain I would recommend to everyone in a = similar=20 situation the method we practised which is to dip their clothes in the=20 salt-water and wring them out as often as they become filled with rain: = it was=20 the only resource we had, and I believe was of the greatest service to = us, for=20 it felt more like a change of dry clothes than could well be imagined. = We had=20 occasion to do this so often that at length all our clothes were wrung = to=20 pieces: for, except the few days we passed on the coast of New Holland, = we were=20 continually wet either with rain or sea.

Thus through the assistance of Divine Providence we surmounted the=20 difficulties and distresses of a most perilous voyage and arrived safe = in an=20 hospitable port where every necessary and comfort were administered to = us with a=20 most liberal hand.

3D""=20=
Track=20 of the Bounty's Launch from Tofoa to Timor by Lt. William Bligh, = 1789.

CHAPTER 18.

At Coupang.

JUNE 1789.

TIMOR.

From the great humanity and attention of the governor and the = gentlemen at=20 Coupang we received every kind of assistance and were not long without = evident=20 signs of returning health. Shortly after our arrival I presented to the = governor=20 a formal account of the loss of the Bounty; and a requisition in His = Majesty's=20 name that instructions might be sent to all the Dutch settlements to = stop the=20 ship if she made her appearance. With this a complete descriptive list = of the=20 mutineers was given.

I likewise requested in one of my first visits to the governor that = Nelson=20 might have permission to walk about the country in search of plants, = which was=20 readily granted with an offer of whatever assistance I should think = necessary:=20 and the governor assured me that the country was well worth examination = as it=20 abounded with many curious and medicinal plants. From this indulgence I = derived=20 no benefit, for Nelson, who since we left New Holland had been but in a = weak=20 condition, about this time was taken ill in consequence of a cold caused = by=20 imprudently leaving off warm clothing.

To secure our arrival at Batavia before the October fleet sailed for = Europe I=20 gave public notice of my intention to hire a vessel to carry us to = Batavia. In=20 consequence of this notice several offers were made but none that I = thought=20 reasonable; which determined me to purchase a small schooner in the = road, that=20 was 34 feet long, for which I gave 1000 rix-dollars and fitted her for = sea under=20 the name of His Majesty's schooner Resource. As the coast of Java is = frequently=20 infested with small piratical vessels it was necessary that we should be = provided with the proper means of defence. In this I was assisted by the = friendship of Mr. Wanjon who supplied me with four brass swivels, 14 = stand of=20 small arms, and ammunition, which he obligingly let me have as a loan to = be=20 returned at Batavia.

July 20.

On the 20th of July I had the misfortune to lose Mr. David Nelson: he = died of=20 an inflammatory fever. The loss of this honest man I very much lamented: = he had=20 with great care and diligence attended to the object for which he was = sent, and=20 had always been ready to forward every plan that was proposed, for the = good of=20 the service in which we were engaged. He was not less useful in our = voyage=20 hither, in the course of which he gave me great satisfaction, by the = patience=20 and fortitude with which he conducted himself.

July 21.

This day I was employed attending the funeral of Mr. Nelson. The = corpse was=20 carried by twelve soldiers dressed in black preceded by the minister; = next=20 followed myself and the second governor; then ten gentlemen of the town = and the=20 officers of the ships in the harbour; and after them my own officers and = people.

After reading our burial-service the body was interred behind the = chapel, in=20 the burying-ground appropriated to the Europeans of the town. I was = sorry I=20 could get no tombstone to place over his remains.

This was the second voyage Mr. Nelson had undertaken to the South = Seas,=20 having been sent out by Sir Joseph Banks to collect plants, seeds, etc. = in=20 Captain Cook's last voyage. And now, after surmounting so many = difficulties, and=20 in the midst of thankfulness for his deliverance, he was called upon to = pay the=20 debt of nature at a time least expected.

August 20.

Our schooner being victualled and ready for sea, on the 20th of = August I took=20 an affectionate leave of the hospitable and friendly inhabitants of = Coupang and=20 embarked. In the afternoon we sailed, having the launch which had so = much=20 contributed to our preservation in tow. We exchanged salutes with the = fort and=20 shipping as we ran out of the harbour.

The town of Coupang is situated in a great bay which is an excellent = road for=20 shipping. The latitude of the town is 10 degrees 12 minutes south. = According to=20 the Dutch charts it is in 121 degrees 51 minutes east longitude. Taking = the mean=20 between the longitude by my reckoning on our arrival at Coupang, and the = longitude afterwards calculated from our run to Batavia, gives me for = the=20 longitude of Coupang 124 degrees 41 minutes east.

This settlement was formed in the year 1630 and is the only one the = Dutch=20 have on the island Timor. They have residents in different parts of the = country.=20 On the north side of Timor there is a Portuguese settlement. The produce = of the=20 island is chiefly sandalwood and beeswax: the former article is now = scarce. Wax=20 they have in great plenty. The bees build their nests in bushes and in = the=20 boughs of trees to which the natives cannot approach but with fire. The = honey is=20 put into jars and the wax is run into blocks of three feet in length and = from 12=20 to 15 inches square. The natives, at least those who live in the = neighbourhood=20 of Coupang, are of a very indolent disposition, of which the Chinese = have taken=20 advantage, for, though the Malays are very fond of traffic, most of = their trade=20 is carried on in small Chinese vessels of from 10 to 30 tons burden. = There is a=20 market at Coupang for the country people in which however there is = little=20 business done. I have seen a man from the country come to market with = two=20 potatoes: and this is not unusual. These being sold for two doits (equal = to a=20 halfpenny English) serve to supply him with betel to chew; and the = remainder of=20 the day is passed in lounging about the town. The inland people, who = live at a=20 distance from the Europeans, are strong and active, but their want of=20 cleanliness subjects them to filthy diseases.

The chief of the natives, or king of the island, is by the Dutch = styled=20 Keyfer (Emperor). This prince lives at a place called Backennassy, about = four=20 miles distant from Coupang. His authority over the natives is not wholly = undisputed; which is by the Dutch attributed to the intrigues of the = Portuguese,=20 who are on the north part of Timor. The island has lately suffered much = by a=20 competition between the present king and one of his nephews, which = caused a=20 civil war that lasted from the beginning of the year 1786 to 1788, when = their=20 differences were settled by a treaty, chiefly in favour of the king. The = ravages=20 committed in these disputes have occasioned a scarcity of provisions = that=20 probably, from the want of industry in the natives, will not soon be = remedied. I=20 had an opportunity of making a visit to the king. His dwelling was a = large house=20 which was divided into only three apartments and surrounded by a piazza, = agreeably situated but very dirty, as was all the furniture. The king, = who is an=20 elderly man, received me with much civility and ordered refreshments to = be set=20 before me, which were tea, rice cakes, roasted Indian corn, and dried = buffalo=20 flesh, with about a pint of arrack, which I believe was all he had. His = dress=20 was a check wrapper girded round his waist with a silk and gold belt, a = loose=20 linen jacket, and a coarse handkerchief about his head. A few of his = chiefs were=20 with him who partook of our repast; after which the king retired with = three of=20 them for a short time and when he returned presented me with a round = plate of=20 metal about four inches diameter on which was stamped the figure of a = star. As I=20 had been informed that arrack would be an acceptable present I was = prepared to=20 make a return which was well received. They never dilute their liquor = and from=20 habit are able to drink a large quantity of spirits at a time without = being=20 intoxicated.

When a king dies a large feast is made to which all the inhabitants = are=20 invited. The body after a few days is put into a coffin which is closed = up and=20 kept three years before it is interred.

The Dutch have been at some pains to establish Christianity among the = natives: but it has not gained much ground, except in the neighbourhood = of=20 Coupang. The present king was christened by the name of Barnardus. His = Indian=20 name is Bachee Bannock. The scriptures are translated into the Malay = language=20 and prayers are performed in the church at Coupang by a Malay clergyman, = in that=20 language.

I met at Timor with most of the fruits that are described in Captain = Cook's=20 first voyage as natives of Batavia, except the mangosteen. The = breadfruit tree,=20 called by the Malays soccoom, likewise grows here with great luxuriance = and=20 appears to be as much a native of this island as it is of Otaheite. The = fruit is=20 exactly of the same kind but not so good. A breadfruit of Timor weighs = half as=20 much more as one of equal size at Otaheite. It is not used here as bread = but=20 generally eaten with milk and sugar. At Backennassy I saw about twenty = of the=20 trees, larger than any I have seen at Otaheite. Here is also a sort of=20 breadfruit tree that produces seeds not unlike Windsor beans and equally = palatable either boiled or roasted. No other part of the fruit is = eatable and,=20 though the tree I am told is to all appearance the same as the other, = the fruits=20 have but little resemblance, the fruit of this being covered with = projecting=20 points nearly half an inch in length.

I received a present of some fine plants from the governor, which I = was=20 afterwards unfortunately obliged to leave at Batavia for want of proper = room to=20 take care of them in the packet by which I returned to Europe. Mr. = Wanjon=20 likewise favoured me with some seeds for His Majesty's garden at Kew = which I had=20 the good fortune to deliver safe on my return: and some of the mountain = rice=20 cultivated at Timor on the dry land, which was forwarded to His = Majesty's=20 botanic garden at St. Vincent, and to other parts in the West = Indies.

A resemblance of language between the people of the South Sea islands = and the=20 inhabitants of many of the islands in the East Indies has been remarked = in=20 Captain Cook's first voyage. Here the resemblance appeared stronger than = has yet=20 been noticed; particularly in their numerals. But besides the language I = observed some customs among the people of Timor still more striking for = their=20 similarity. They practise the tooge-tooge* of the Friendly Islands which = they=20 call toombock: and the roomee of Otaheite which they call ramas. I = likewise saw,=20 placed on their graves, offerings of baskets with tobacco and betel.

(*Footnote. The tooge-tooge is described in Captain Cook's = last=20 voyage Volume 1 page 323; and the roomee in the same voyage Volume 2 = page=20 64.)

I left the governor Mr. van Este at the point of death. To this = gentleman our=20 most grateful thanks are due for the humane and friendly treatment that = we=20 received from him. His ill state of health only prevented him from = showing us=20 more particular marks of attention. Unhappily it is to his memory only = that I=20 now pay this tribute. It was a fortunate circumstance for us that Mr. = Wanjon,=20 the next in place to the governor, was equally humane and ready to = relieve us.=20 His attention was unremitting and, when there was a doubt about = supplying me=20 with money to enable me to purchase a vessel, he cheerfully took it upon = himself; without which it was evident, I should have been too late at = Batavia to=20 have sailed for Europe with the October fleet. I can only return such = services=20 by ever retaining a grateful remembrance of them.

Mr. Max the town surgeon likewise behaved to us with the most = disinterested=20 humanity: he attended everyone with the utmost care, for which I could = not=20 prevail on him to receive any payment, or to render me any account, or = other=20 answer than that it was his duty.

CHAPTER 19.

From Timor to Batavia.

AUGUST 1789.

Thursday 20.

From Coupang we steered north-west by west having a moderate breeze = at=20 south-east with fair weather.

Saturday 22.

At daylight we saw the island Flores to the northward. At noon = latitude=20 observed 9 degrees 27 minutes south, and longitude by account from = Coupang 2=20 degrees 10 minutes west. Our distance from the coast of Flores was about = 10=20 leagues; and two high peaked mountains bore north half east and=20 north-north-west. These two mountains resemble each other in shape and = the=20 westernmost is a volcano. The interior parts of Flores are mountainous = and=20 woody: but near the sea-coast is a fine open country. A Dutch map with = which I=20 was provided places the south part of Flores in 9 degrees 3 minutes = south which=20 I am of opinion is too far south. We steered along the south side of = Flores,=20 mostly with light winds and hazy weather, so that we did not constantly = keep=20 sight of the coast.

Tuesday 25.

At noon we were off Toorns island which bore north-west by north = three or=20 four leagues distant. Our latitude observed was 8 degrees 57 minutes = south and=20 longitude made by dead reckoning from Coupang 3 degrees 27 minutes west. = Toorns=20 island is about four leagues in circuit and has a craggy and uneven = appearance.=20 There is a curious high peak on the south-west part: the land near the = shore is=20 low and woody.

Thursday 27.

On the 27th at noon we were near the entrance of the Straits of = Mangaryn,=20 which not appearing so open and clear as represented in the map, I = steered for=20 the straits of Sapi, intending to pass through; but was obliged to give = up this=20 plan by strong currents setting to the south-east which there was not = sufficient=20 wind to enable us to stem.

Saturday 29.

I therefore again stood for the Straits of Mangaryn which we ran = through in=20 the afternoon of the 29th, being favoured with a fresh breeze from the=20 south-south-east. On our first entering the straits we got close to the = Flores=20 shore: our course through was north half east. We tried for soundings = but could=20 not anywhere find bottom at 25 and 30 fathoms depth. On the Flores side = there=20 are many good harbours and bays where vessels may anchor; but the = country=20 hereabouts appears burnt up and desolate.

I had no azimuth-compass and consequently could not observe very = accurately=20 the variation; but I believe there is so little in Mangaryn Straits that = no=20 great error will be occasioned by considering the true and magnetic = bearings to=20 be the same.

When we had passed the straits we kept to the westward, running along = the=20 north side of the island Sumbawa, where there is a very high mountain = near the=20 coast, at the foot of which I am informed, are many runs of good water,=20 conveniently situated for ships to supply themselves. The latitude of = the north=20 part of Sumbawa I make by my observations and bearings to be 8 degrees 6 = minutes=20 south, which differs very little from the Dutch charts.

Monday 31.

In the night of the 31st several prows were rowing about us, on which = account=20 we kept all night under arms.

September. Thursday 3.

This and the two following days we were sailing along the north side = of the=20 island Lombok, on which is a high mountain. Most of the islands in this = route=20 are distinguished by high mountains. Lombok appears to be well clothed = with=20 wood. In the nights we saw fires upon the high lands at a distance from = the=20 coast.

Sunday 6.

In the afternoon we saw the high land of Cape Sandana, which is the=20 north-east part of Java.

Monday 7.

The next day we were off cape Sandana which is a low cape projecting = from the=20 high land already mentioned. This cape is placed by the Dutch maps in 7 = degrees=20 52 minutes south. But according to my observation and our estimated = distance=20 from the land I make it in 7 degrees 46 minutes south latitude. The = longitude by=20 my dead reckoning from Coupang to Cape Sandana was 11 degrees 33 minutes = west.

Thursday 10.

We steered to the westward along the coast of Java and on the 10th at = noon we=20 anchored off Passourwang, a Dutch settlement on the coast of Java, in = two=20 fathoms, distant from the shore half a league, the entrance of the river = bearing=20 south-west. The coast hereabouts so is shoal that large ships are = obliged to=20 anchor three or four miles from the land. As soon as we were at anchor I = got in=20 my boat and went on shore. The banks of the river near the entrance were = mud, on=20 which grew a few mangrove bushes. Among them we saw hogs running and = many were=20 laying dead in the mud, which caused a most intolerable stench and made = me=20 heartily repent having come here; but after proceeding about a mile up = the=20 river, the course of which was serpentine, we found a very pleasant = country and=20 landed at a small and well-constructed fort, where I was received in a = friendly=20 and polite manner by M. Adrian van Rye, the commandant. By the return of = the=20 boat I sent on board a small bullock and other provisions. I likewise = took a=20 pilot to conduct us to Sourabaya.

The houses at Passourwang are neatly built and the country appears to = be well=20 cultivated. The produce of this settlement is rice, of which they export = large=20 quantities. There are but few Dutch here: the Javanese are numerous and = their=20 chief lives with considerable splendour. They have good roads and posts = are=20 established along the coast; and it appears to be a busy and = well-regulated=20 settlement. Latitude 7 degrees 36 minutes south. Longitude 1 degree 44 = minutes=20 west of Cape Sandana.

Friday 11.

The next day about noon we sailed.

Saturday 12.

And on the 12th in the evening anchored in Sourabaya road in seven = fathoms:=20 the flagstaff bearing south one quarter west; distance from the shore = one mile.=20 We found riding here seven square-rigged and several smaller = vessels.

It was too late when we anchored to send a boat on shore.

Sunday 13.

The next morning before daylight three guard-boats stationed = themselves near=20 us and I was informed that I must not land or send a boat on shore. This = restriction I learnt from the officer of the guard-boats was in = conformity to=20 general orders concerning all strange vessels on their first arrival. At = nine in=20 the forenoon leave came off for us to land and soon after the = guard-boats=20 quitted us.

I was received on shore with great civility and friendship by the = governor or=20 Opperhoost M. Ant. Barkay, and the commandant of the troops M. de Bose. = By these=20 gentlemen I was hospitably entertained, and advised to remain till the = 16th when=20 some vessels were to sail, with whom I might keep company, which they=20 recommended on account of pirates.

Sourabaya is one of the most pleasant places I ever saw. It is = situated on=20 the banks of a river and is a mile and a half distant from the seashore = so that=20 only the flagstaff can be seen from the road. The river is navigable up = to the=20 town for vessels of 100 tons burden, and the bank on one side is made = convenient=20 for tracking. The Chinese carry on a considerable trade here, and have a = town or=20 camp on the side of the river opposite to Sourabaya. The country near = the town=20 is flat and the soil light, so that they plow with a single bullock or = buffalo=20 (karrabow). The interior parts of the country near the mountains are = infested=20 with a breed of fierce tigers, which makes travelling inland very = dangerous.=20 They have here a breed of horses which are small but they are handsome = and=20 strong.

The Javanese in this neighbourhood are numerous. M. Barkay and M. de = Bose=20 took me with them to pay a visit to two of the principal natives, whom = we found=20 attended by a number of men armed with pikes in great military order. We = were=20 entertained with a concert of music; the instruments were gongs, drums, = and a=20 fiddle with two strings. I hired a pilot here to carry us to Batavia. = Our=20 latitude observed in Sourabaya road was 7 degrees 11 minutes south. = Longitude=20 made from Cape Sandana 1 degree 52 minutes west.

Thursday 17.

On the 17th we sailed from Sourabaya in company with three prows. At = noon we=20 anchored at Crissey which is a town with a small fort belonging to the = Dutch. We=20 remained here about two hours and then weighed. Latitude of Crissey 7 = degrees 9=20 minutes south. Longitude from Cape Sandana 1 degree 55 minutes west.

The navigation through the Straits of Madura is so intricate that = with the=20 little opportunity I had I am unable to undertake a description of = it.

Friday 18.

The next day, having passed the straits, we bore away to the westward = along=20 the coast of Java in company with the prows before mentioned.

Tuesday 22.

We had regular soundings all the way to Samarang, off which place we = anchored=20 on the 22nd in the afternoon; the church bearing south-east; distance = from the=20 shore half a league: depth of water two fathoms. The shoalness of the = coast here=20 makes the road of Samarang very inconvenient, both on account of the = great=20 distance that large ships (of which there were several in the road) are = obliged=20 to lay from the shore, and of the landing which is in a river that = cannot be=20 entered before half-flood. This river resembles the one at Passourwang, = the=20 shores being low with offensive dead animals laying about. I was met at = the=20 landing-place by the equipage-master, and he furnished me with a = carriage to=20 carry me to the governor, whose residence is about two miles from the = town of=20 Samarang. I requested and obtained leave to have our wants supplied, = which were=20 to recruit our provisions, and to get a any mainmast, having sprung ours = in the=20 passage from Sourabaya.

Samarang is a fortified town surrounded by a wall and ditch, and is = the most=20 considerable settlement next to Batavia that the Dutch have in Java. = Here is a=20 very good hospital and a public school, chiefly for teaching the = mathematics.=20 They have likewise a theatre. Provisions are remarkably cheap here, beef = being=20 at ten doits per pound and the price of a fowl 12 doits.

I experienced great civility from some of the gentlemen at Samarang,=20 particularly from M. le Baron de Bose, a merchant, brother to the M. de = Bose,=20 commandant of the troops at Sourabaya: and from M. Abegg, the surgeon of = the=20 hospital, to whom we were indebted for advice and medicines for which he = would=20 not consent to receive payment.

The latitude of Samarang is 6 degrees 57 minutes. Longitude by my = reckoning=20 from Cape Sandana 4 degrees 7 minutes west.

Saturday 26.

On the 26th we sailed from Samarang and with us a galley mounting six = swivels=20 which the governor had directed to accompany us to Batavia.

October. Thursday 1.

On the 1st of October we anchored in Batavia road, where we found = riding a=20 Dutch ship of war and 20 sail of Dutch East India ships, besides many = smaller=20 vessels.

CHAPTER 20.

Occurrences at Batavia and Passage thence to=20 England.

OCTOBER 1789.

In the afternoon at four o'clock I went on shore and landed at a = house by the=20 river where strangers first stop and give an account who they are, = whence they=20 came, etc. From this place a Malay gentleman took me in a carriage to = Sabandar,=20 Mr. Engelhard, whose house was in the environs of the city on the side = nearest=20 the shipping. The Sabandar is the officer with whom all strangers are = obliged to=20 transact their business: at least the whole must go through his hands. = With him=20 I went to pay my respects to the governor-general who received me with = great=20 civility. I acquainted his excellency with my situation and requested my = people=20 might be taken care of and that we should be allowed to take a passage = to Europe=20 in the first ship that sailed. I likewise desired permission to sell the = schooner and launch. All this his excellency told me should be granted. = I then=20 took leave and returned with the Sabandar who wrote down the particulars = of my=20 wants in order to form from them a regular petition to be presented to = the=20 council the next day. I had brought from the governor of Coupang, = directed for=20 the governor-general at Batavia, the account of my voyage and = misfortune,=20 translated into Dutch from an account that I had given to Mr. van Este. = So=20 attentive had they been at Timor to everything that related to us.

There is a large hotel at Batavia fitted up purposely for the = accommodation=20 of strangers, who are not allowed to reside at any other place. It is = situated=20 near the great river in a part of the city that is reckoned the most = airy and=20 healthy. Nevertheless I found the air hot and suffocating and was taken = ill in=20 the night with a violent pain in my head.

Friday 2.

The next morning at nine the council sat and I attended, accompanied = by the=20 Sabandar; and was informed that the council had complied with all I had=20 requested.

When I returned to the hotel my headache increased and a violent = fever came=20 on. I sent to acquaint the Sabandar of my situation and was soon after = attended=20 by the head surgeon of the town hospital Mr. Aansorp, by whose care and = skill in=20 less than 24 hours the fever considerably abated but a severe headache=20 continued. I had an invitation from the governor-general to dine with = him, which=20 of course I was obliged to decline.

I hired a carriage which cost three dollars per day for the benefit = of taking=20 an airing. My lodgings at the hotel were so close and hot that I desired = the=20 Sabandar to apply to the Governor-General for leave to hire a house in = the=20 country; which request his excellency not only immediately complied with = but=20 gave directions for my being accommodated at the house of the physician = or=20 surgeon-general Mr. Sparling.

One of my people, Thomas Hall, being ill with a flux I obtained leave = for him=20 to be sent to the country hospital which is a convenient airy = building.

Tuesday 6.

This morning at sunrise I left the hotel and was carried to Mr. = Sparling's=20 house, about four miles distant from the city and near the convalescent = hospital=20 which at this time had also sick men in it, the whole number of patients = amounting to 800. I found everything prepared for my comfort and = convenience.=20 Mr. Sparling would suffer me to take no medicine though I had still = considerable=20 fever with headache: but I found so much relief from the difference of = the air=20 that in the evening I was able to accompany Mr. Sparling on a visit to = the=20 governor-general at one of his country seats, where we found many ladies = all=20 dressed in the Malay fashion, some of them richly ornamented with = jewels. I had=20 invitations from several gentlemen and some very kindly pressed me to = make their=20 country houses my abode till my health should be reestablished.

My indisposition increasing, Mr. Sparling advised me to quit Batavia = as=20 speedily as possible and represented the necessity of it to the=20 governor-general. I was informed from his excellency that the = homeward-bound=20 ships were so much crowded that there would be no possibility of all my = people=20 going in one ship, and that they could be accommodated no other way than = by=20 dividing them into different ships. Seeing therefore that a separation = was=20 unavoidable I determined to follow the advice of the physician and, as a = packet=20 was appointed to sail for Europe on the 16th instant, I sent to request = of the=20 governor that I might be allowed to take a passage in her for myself and = as many=20 of my people as they were able to receive. In answer to this I was = acquainted=20 that myself and two more could be accommodated in the packet, she being = too=20 small to admit a greater number; but that I might rest assured of = passages being=20 provided for those that remained by the earliest opportunities.

Friday 9.

This day anchored in the road the General Elliot, an English ship = commanded=20 by Captain Lloyd. In the Straits of Banca he had met with some boats = belonging=20 to the East India Company's ship Vansittart that was lost in the straits = of=20 Billaton by having struck on a rock that went through her bottom. = Captain=20 Wilson, who commanded the Vansittart, I was informed had just finished a = survey=20 of those Straits and was hoisting his boat in when the ship struck. = Immediately=20 on receiving the intelligence Captain Lloyd, in the General Elliot and = another=20 ship in company called the Nonsuch, sailed for the wreck. They found the = ship=20 had been burnt down to the water's edge by the Malays. They however = saved 40=20 chests of treasure out of 55 which were said to have been on board. Most = of the=20 ship's company were saved: one man only was lost in the ship, and five = others in=20 a small boat were missing who were supposed to have taken some of the = treasure.=20 The greater part of the people went with Captain Wilson to China, and = some were=20 with Captain Lloyd.

Saturday 10.

This morning the Resource was sold by public auction: the custom at = Batavia=20 is to begin high and to lower the price till some person bids; and the = first=20 bidder is the buyer. She was accordingly put up at 2000 rix-dollars but = to my=20 great disappointment no one offered to purchase before the auctioneer = had=20 lowered the demand to 295 rix-dollars, for which price she was sold, the = purchaser being an Englishman, Captain John Eddie, who commanded an = English ship=20 from Bengal. If no strangers had been present at the sale I imagine they = would=20 have let her run down to 200 dollars, in which case I should have had no = alternative.

The launch likewise was sold. The services she had rendered us made = me feel=20 great reluctance at parting with her; which I would not have done if I = could=20 have found a convenient opportunity of getting her conveyed to = Europe.

Little as the schooner had sold for I found I was in danger of having = the sum=20 lessened; for the Sabandar informed me that by an order of the council = there was=20 a duty on the sale of all vessels. With this demand I would by no means = comply=20 for I thought I had sufficiently suffered in sustaining a loss of 705=20 rix-dollars out of 1000 by the purchase and sale of the vessel, she = having cost=20 1000 rix-dollars.

This day Thomas Hall, whom I had sent to be taken care of at the = hospital,=20 died. He had been ill of a flux from the time of our arrival at = Timor.

Monday 12.

I agreed with the captain of the packet for a passage to Europe for = myself,=20 my clerk, and a servant. The Sabandar informed me it was necessary that = my=20 officers and people should be examined before a notary respecting the = loss of=20 the Bounty, as otherwise the governor and council were not legally = authorised to=20 detain her if she should be found in any of the Dutch settlements. They = were=20 therefore at my desire examined, and afterwards made affidavit before = the=20 governor and council at the Stadthouse.

My officers complaining to me of the unreasonableness of some = tradesmen's=20 bills I spoke to the Sabandar. A bill of 51 dollars for five hats he = reduced to=20 30 dollars and in other articles made proportionable deductions.

Paper money is the currency of Batavia and is so understood in all = bargains.=20 At this time paper was at 28 per cent discount: there is likewise a = difference=20 in the value of the ducatoon which at Batavia is 80 stivers and in = Holland only=20 63 stivers: this occasions a loss of 21 1/4 per cent on remittance of = money. It=20 therefore follows that if any person at Batavia remits money by bills of = exchange to Europe they lose by the discount and the exchange 49 1/4 per = cent.

Those who have accounts to pay and can give unexceptionable bills on = Europe=20 will find a considerable saving by negotiating their bills with private = people=20 who are glad to give for them a premium of 20 per cent at the least. = This=20 discovery I made somewhat too late to profit by.

One of the greatest difficulties that strangers have to encounter is = their=20 being obliged to live at the hotel. This hotel was formerly two houses = which by=20 doors of communication have been made one. It is in the middle of a = range of=20 buildings more calculated for a cold country than for such a climate as = Batavia.=20 There is no free circulation of air and what is equally bad it is always = very=20 dirty; and there is great want of attendance. What they call cleaning = the house=20 is another nuisance; for they never use any water to cool it or to lay = the dust,=20 but sweep daily with brooms in such a manner that those in the house are = almost=20 suffocated by a cloud of dust.

The months of December and January are reckoned the most unhealthy of = the=20 year, the heavy rains being then set in. The account of the seasons as = given to=20 me here I believe may be relied on.

The middle of November the west monsoon begins and rain.

December and January. Continual rain with strong westerly wind.

February. Westerly wind. Towards the end of this month the rain = begins to=20 abate.

March. Intervals of fine weather. Wind westerly.

April. In this month the east monsoon begins. Weather generally fine = with=20 showers of rain.

May. East monsoon fixed. Showery.

June and July. Clear weather. Strong east wind.

August and September. Wind more moderate.

October. In this month the wind begins to be variable with showers of = rain.

The current is said always to run with the wind. Nevertheless I found = the=20 reverse in sailing from Timor to Java. Between the end of October and = the=20 beginning of the ensuing year no Dutch ship bound for Europe is allowed = to sail=20 from Batavia for fear of being near the Mauritius at the time of the = hurricanes=20 which are frequent there in December and January.

My illness prevented me from gaining much knowledge of Batavia. Of = their=20 public buildings I saw nothing that gave me so much satisfaction as = their=20 country hospital for seamen. It is a large commodious and airy building = about=20 four miles from the town, close to the side of the river, or rather in = the=20 river: for the ground on which it stands has by labour been made an = island of,=20 and the sick are carried there in a boat: each ward is a separate = dwelling and=20 the different diseases are properly classed. They have sometimes 1400 = patients=20 in it: at this time there were 800, but more than half of these were = recovered=20 and fit for service, of whom 300 were destined for the fleet that was to = sail=20 for Europe. I went through most of the wards and there appeared great = care and=20 attention. The sheets, bedding, and linen of the sick were perfectly = neat and=20 clean. The house of the physician, Mr. Sparling, who has the management = of the=20 hospital is at one extremity of the building: and here it was that I = resided. To=20 the attention and care of this gentleman, for which he would receive no = payment,=20 I am probably indebted for my life.

The hospital in the town is well attended, but the situation is so = ill chosen=20 that it certainly would be the saving of many lives to build one in its = stead up=20 the river, which might be done with great advantage as water carriage is = so easy=20 and convenient. A great neglect in some of the commanders of the = shipping here=20 was suffering their people to go dirty and frequently without frock, = shirt, or=20 anything to cover their bodies, which, besides being a public nuisance, = must=20 probably be productive of ill health in the most robust = constitution.

The governor-general gave me leave to lodge all my people at the = country=20 hospital which I thought a great advantage and with which they were = perfectly=20 satisfied. The officers however at their own request remained in the = town.

The time fixed for the sailing of the packet approaching, I settled = my=20 accounts with the Sabandar, leaving open the victualling account to be = closed by=20 Mr. Fryer the master previous to his departure, who I likewise = authorised to=20 supply the men and officers left under his command with one month's pay = to=20 enable them to purchase clothing for their passage to England.

I had been at great pains to bring living plants from Timor, in six = tubs,=20 which contained jacks, nancas, karambolas, namnams, jambos, and three = thriving=20 breadfruit plants. These I thought might be serviceable at the Cape of = Good Hope=20 if brought no farther: but I had the mortification of being obliged to = leave=20 them all at Batavia. I took these plants on board at Coupang on the 20th = of=20 August: they had experienced a passage of 42 days to my arrival here. = The=20 breadfruit plants died to the root and sprouted afresh from thence. The=20 karambolas, jacks, nancas, and namnams I had raised from the seed and = they were=20 in fine order. No judgment can hence be formed of the success of = transporting=20 plants, as in the present trial they had many disadvantages.

Friday 16.

This morning being sunrise I embarked on board the Vlydte packet = commanded by=20 Captain Peter Couvret, bound for Middleburgh. With me likewise embarked = Mr. John=20 Samwell, clerk, and John Smith, seaman. Those of our company who stayed = behind=20 the governor promised me should follow in the first ships and be as = little=20 divided as possible. At 7 o'clock the packet weighed and sailed out of = the=20 road.

Sunday 18.

On the 18th we spoke the Rambler, an American brig belonging to = Boston, bound=20 to Batavia. After passing the Straits of Sunda we steered to the north = of the=20 Cocos Isles. These islands, Captain Couvret informed me, are full of = coconut=20 trees: there is no anchorage near them but good landing for boats. Their = latitude 12 degrees 0 minutes south. Longitude 96 degrees 5 minutes = east.

In the passage to the Cape of Good Hope there occurred nothing worth = remark.=20 I cannot however forbear noticing the Dutch manner of navigating. They = steer by=20 true compass, or rather endeavour so to do, by means of a small movable = central=20 card, which they set to the meridian: and whenever they discover the = variation=20 has altered 2 1/2 degrees since the last adjustment they again correct = the=20 central card. This is steering within a quarter of a point, without = aiming at=20 greater exactness. The officer of the watch likewise corrects the course = for=20 leeway by his own judgment before it is marked down in the log board. = They heave=20 no log: I was told that the company do not allow it. Their manner of = computing=20 their run is by means of a measured distance of 40 feet along the ship's = side:=20 they take notice of any remarkable patch of froth when it is abreast the = foremost end of the measured distance, and count half seconds till the = mark of=20 froth is abreast the after end. With the number of half seconds thus = obtained=20 they divide the number 48, taking the product for the rate of sailing in = geographical miles in one hour, or the number of Dutch miles in four = hours.

It is not usual to make any allowance to the sun's declination on = account of=20 being on a different meridian from that for which the tables are = calculated:=20 they in general compute with the numbers just as they are found in the = table.=20 From all this it is not difficult to conceive the reason why the Dutch = are=20 frequently above ten degrees out in their reckoning. Their passages = likewise are=20 considerably lengthened by not carrying a sufficient quantity of = sail.

December 16.

In the afternoon we anchored in Table Bay.

December 17.

The next morning I went on shore and waited on his excellency M. = Vander Graaf=20 who received me in the most polite and friendly manner. The Guardian, = commanded=20 by Lieutenant Riou, had left the Cape about eight days before with = cattle and=20 stores for Port Jackson. This day anchored in table bay the Astree, a = French=20 frigate, commanded by the Count de St. Rivel from the Isle of France, on = board=20 of which ship was the late governor, the Chevalier d'Entrecasteaux. = Other ships=20 that arrived during my stay at the Cape were a French 40-gun frigate, an = East=20 India ship, and a brig, of the same nation: likewise two other French = ships with=20 slaves from the coast of Mozambique bound to the West Indies: a Dutch = packet=20 from Europe, after a four months passage: and the Harpy, a South Sea = Whaler with=20 500 barrels of spermaceti, and 400 of seal and other oils. There is a = standing=20 order from the Dutch East India Company that no person who takes a = passage from=20 Batavia for Europe in any of their ships shall be allowed to leave the = ship=20 before she arrives at her intended port. According to which regulation I = must=20 have gone to Holland in the packet. Of this I was not informed till I = was taking=20 leave of the governor-general at Batavia, when it was too late for him = to give=20 the Captain an order to permit me to land in the channel. He however = desired I=20 would make use of his name to governor Vander Graaf, who readily = complied with=20 my request and gave the necessary orders to the Captain of the packet, a = copy of=20 which his excellency gave to me; and at the same time recommendatory = letters to=20 people of consequence in Holland in case I should be obliged to proceed = so=20 far.

I left a letter at the Cape of Good Hope to be forwarded to governor = Phillips=20 at Port Jackson by the first opportunity, containing a short account of = my=20 voyage with a descriptive list of the pirates: and from Batavia I had = written to=20 Lord Cornwallis, so that every part of India will be prepared to receive = them.

Saturday 2.

We sailed from the Cape in company with the Astree French frigate. = The next=20 morning neither ship nor land were in sight. On the 15th we passed in = sight of=20 the island St. Helena. The 21st we saw the island Ascension. On the 10th = of=20 February, the wind being at north-east blowing fresh, our sails were = covered=20 with a fine orange-coloured dust. Fuego, the westernmost of the Cape de = Verde=20 islands and the nearest land to us on that day at noon bore north-east = by east=20 half east, distance 140 leagues. When we had passed the latitude of the = Western=20 Islands a lookout was kept for some rocks which Captain Couvret had been = informed lay in latitude 44 degrees 25 minutes north and 2 degrees 50 = minutes=20 east longitude from the east end of St. Michael. This information = Captain=20 Couvret had received from a person that he knew and who said he had seen = them.=20 On the 13th of March we saw the Bill of Portland and on the evening of = the next=20 day, Sunday March the 14th, I left the packet and was landed at = Portsmouth by an=20 Isle of Wight boat.

Those of my officers and people whom I left at Batavia were provided = with=20 passages in the earliest ships; and at the time we parted were = apparently in=20 good health. Nevertheless they did not all live to quit Batavia. Mr.=20 Elphinstone, master's mate, and Peter Linkletter, seaman, died within a=20 fortnight after my departure, the hardships they had experienced having = rendered=20 them unequal to cope with so unhealthy a climate as that of Batavia. The = remainder embarked on board the Dutch fleet for Europe, and arrived safe = at this=20 country, except Robert Lamb, who died on the passage, and Mr. Ledward = the=20 surgeon who has not yet been heard of. Thus of nineteen who were forced = by the=20 mutineers into the launch it has pleased God that twelve should surmount = the=20 difficulties and dangers of the voyage and live to revisit their native=20 country.

The End





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